The battery light came on, and the car died. After a few minutes, the car started right up and continued on my way home. Over the next four miles home the car died another three times, and I was forced to push it the remaining 1/4 mile home. When I got home I tested the battery, and it measured a good 12.78 volts. I then took a look at the fuses, and at this point I should mention that yesterday when I was done rotating the tires I decided to clean the fuse box, and decided to swap the fuel pump fuses to see what would happen. I replaced the main fuel pump fuse with a new 16amp fuse, and still no start and no dashboard dummy lights. I replaced the in-tank fuel pump fuse with a new 8amp fuse and the car started right up. I tested the alternator with the car running, and it was a very healthy 13.75 volts. It looks like the fuel pump fuses are once again the culprit, so I am heading off to Kragen (when I am finished training) to pick up two blade, or "spade," fuse holders and then wire them up so ceramic fuses are no longer necessary for the two fuel pump fuses. Have a most splendid day one and all :)

"...still no start and no dashboard dummy lights."

Excellent clue. The common culptit for those two conditions is Fuse #13—not the fuel fuses at all.

Fuse #13 powers the warning lights and the Fuel relay coil. And the problem can be intermittent due to loose/dirty contact between the fuse ends and the spring contacts. Clean them up and squeeze the contacts together a little (fuse out) to increase the spring tension.

IMO there's no need to go the blade fuse route.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Thank you Lucid for the heads-up! I imagine when I cleaned the fuse box contacts that I must have loosened them a bit. I also looked at fuse 13, and you were dead-on. I am going to do blade fuse holders for fuse 5/7(fuel pump fuses) as well as 13. I just don't want to have to worry about loose contacts again. Have a splendid afternoon, and evening :)

All the grounds checked out fine. The issue was that the fuse box contacts had come a little too far apart, and hence the trouble with fuse 13 not making good contact. I squeezed the contacts closer together, and drove the 245 some 10 miles without issue. If the problem arises again, I will utilize the blade fuse holder(s) that I purchased today. Have a wonderful evening one and all :)

I had a wonderful morning instead. If/when you wire in the blade fuseholders, can you make notes or pictures to show us how it turns out?
--
-K (hope springs eternal)

Hopefully this weekend I will have the time to install the blade fuse holders. Since squeezing the contacts together was enough to get good contact on the ceramic fuses, the 245 is going to have to take a back seat (for at least a few days) to my addressing the PCV system on a 850. When I do get around to doing it, I will post pics here. I am going to do the 2 fuel pump fuses (#5 and #7), and well as the relay fuse (# 13 if memory serves me correctly). In my mind, these are the most important fuses and it is prudent that they are making proper contact. With all the 240s still out on the road, it puzzles me as to why no one has concocted a blade fuse holder tray and marketed it. I know I would line up to purchase one :)

Yeah, I'd be right behind you in line. The eurofuses aren't really that unreliable if they are kept dry. Once in a while you can find one in a junkyard that looks pretty shiny and new, and it doesn't look like a replacement, just a survivor of a rare 240 with no windshield leaks. Once the moisture gets to them, well, you know the result.
--
-K (hope springs eternal)