posted by
someone claiming to be 777
on
Wed Jun 6 15:04 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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Greetings:
One of my seals to my 90 740 GLE Wagon went bad! And now oil has entered into the timing belt area. Of course the timing belt is toast and or will be toast eventually, but the entire area has been washed down with motor oil. I was wondering if not some sort of degreaser if not brake fluid might help in the removal of the oil. My biggest concern is the oil residue. I am going to replace the belt, and whatever seal that went bad. The car runs good, but the loss of oil is about 1-2 qts per day (currently off road/parked). What say you?
Best Regards
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posted by
someone claiming to be greg_mustang
on
Thu Jun 7 08:08 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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GLE... is it 16valve?
If so, I would stop the car and do a full timing job on that thing, and not run it until you are done!
If not, I vote WD-40. Tought degreasers getting into the engine seals is not a good idea.
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posted by
someone claiming to be 777
on
Thu Jun 7 12:39 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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no its an 8 valve.
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Simple Green, a brush, and water. Brake fluid will only take the paint off the fenders! I would avoid brake and carb cleaners because they do bad things to the seals in the area.
Lots of water.
Klaus
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1995 854T and 1998 V70R
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I like the purple cleaner stuff made by Castrol. It is great for most clean up jobs and does a really great job on wheels too. The only thing is the the over spray mist makes me itch horribly. Also if it is really thick gunky stuff i use WD-40 a trick i picked up from motocross racing. it is one of the only things that will dissolve the tar like drool that 2 cycle engines can make.
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I replaced my power steering mounting bracket (over several nights) a couple weeks ago.
The bad bracket put enough pressure onto the pump's front shaft bushing that it leaked a bit of fluid continually and formed some hideous gum.
I tried WD-40, Brake Cleaner, elbow grease, soap.... nothing would dissolve it. And, the metal in it got into my pores on my skin and would not come off with anything! I had filthy looking hands for a week and a half.
I think the main issue was that it was maybe 30% metal filings.
It's all gone now anyway, but it's still odd.
-Will
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond
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Purple stuff degreaser and a good pressure washer. Take the front cover off and clean thoroughly. Plan on replacing the t-belt, idler roller, and cam seal. The oil will eventually soften the belt teeth and the car will quit at some point when it is not convenient.
Regards,
--
Will Dallas, www.willdallas.us, www.willdallas.org, www.willdallas.com 86 245 DL 222K miles, 93 940 260K miles, 88 765 GLE 152K miles
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Castrol attacks aluminum, so rinse it thoroughly if you choose this one. Read the label.
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-K (hope springs eternal)
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>>Castrol attacks aluminum, so rinse it thoroughly if you choose this one.<<
I've had great results with Castrol's Super Clean, even on aluminium. As Kyle mentioned, rinse throughly.
My method: cold engine (Super Clean tends to leave a white residue when sprayed on a hot engine), cover the distributer and brake master cylinder with baggies, spray liberally an area of the engine/engine bay, scrub the stubborn, built-up areas with a good parts brush and hose off.
Super Clean, like Simple Green, emulsifies oil and grease without the use of harsh chemicals such as acetone.
HTH,
Don
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Maybe it is formulated differently for distribution on the left coast, but Super Clean here is caustic and quite different from Simple Green. The "white residue" you see is the result of its chemical reaction with aluminum. Of course, heat and reaction time increase the effect, and rinsing it stops it.
--
-K (hope springs eternal)
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A spray can of Gunk Engine Cleaner and a 2" paint brush.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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Simple Green and water; change the seals and check the PCV system first.
Brake fluid will have no effect.
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Carb cleaner will work well, I always use brake spray clean and a parts brush. Just place a drip pan underneath the area, spray it down liberally and then work all of the crap and crud loose with your parts brush and spray it down again, rinse and repeat as necessary. A word of caution, do not spray cleaners of this nature on oil seals, I have seen it damage them in the past and all of the techs I have worked with over the years pretty much follow this caution. So, pull your seals, clean it all up, blow it off with compressed air if you have it available and then reassemble it. I prefer the brake cleaner because it dries much faster than carb spray. The active ingredient in most brake cleaners is acetone.
Mark
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