looked at the Teglerizer site need help understanding the #'s under the needle code, couldnt find how you decifer the code , the higher the station the more fuel ? #1 spot is at idle ? the higher the station the more open the throttle , ?

thanks if you can help

The stock needles are perfect for a stock motor.

What motor do you have & what mods have you done to it?

It's very hard to do better than KD or KN on a standard high comp B18B or B20B, but if you have lower compression, an A or B instead of a C cam or, a single downpipe exhaust, then the SM or ZH might be better.

If you have a stock B18 engine, my understanding is that you start with ZH needles which are the most common on HS6 SUs.

Worked for my setup.




From: http://home.earthlink.net/~goodspeeds/NEEDLES.HTM
SU HS6 Carburetor Needles used on Volvo B18 and B20 engines.
Dimensions in inches. Drawings not to scale.
________________________________________
Replacing the needle in an SU carburetor with a thinner one will result in a richer fuel/air mixture. As you can see from the picture, the KD needle provides the richest mixture, and the ZH the leanest. Always use the same kind of needle for each carburetor in multi-carb setups. Stock needles are best for stock engines in street use. To purchase SU carburetor needles in the USA, call Joe Curto, 718-762-7878.

Read the numbers below the stations as multipliers for 0.0001", thereby representing the thickness of the needle at that point. I believe the stations are .125" apart. The higher the number, the fatter the needle at that station and the less fuel supply when the needle is withdrawn form the jet upto that point. In the best of all SU worlds, once the mixture has been set correctly at idle, the faster you go the higher the needle is drawn out of the jet and the more fuel mixes with the increased volume of air, and the fuel to air ration in the mix remains the same over the whole range. The choke is not really a choke, it's just a device that enriches the mixture by lowering the jet for the purpose of waking up a cold engine.

Bob S.

ok i understand the concept , how do i figure what the car needs , cant find anyone around here with the needles so i can try , and at 30 bucks a pop this is nuts to try to guess , talked to a volvo guy near here and he just said set them with what they have in it ,not the answer i was looking fo r wanted a little better mileage and to stop the fumes

There are plenty of us around who have old carbs and spare needles.
I suspect that what you need now is not a longhaired research project but a
fast fix. If I were you I'd ask if anyone has a pair of KD or KN or DX needles
you can borrow, perhaps semipermanently. Used would probably be nearly as good
as new if not badly worn.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Unfortunately, from here on it's pretty much trial and error. I think that Phil's suggestion of KDs is a pretty safe bet, unless some really weird things have been done to that engine. I have KDs in mine and they work fine with my slightly shaved (to raise the compression a bit) F head and K cam. I suspect that yours is a B20B head. KDs were standard for 68-69. KNs were used on 69-71s, and BBBs and B1BLs were used on later models. I'd talk to Joe Curto and explain your situation and what has been suggested. Maybe he could sell you a selection of needles and refund you for the ones you don't use, or he might have some used ones around he'd let you try if you send him a deposit.

Bob S.