So I've read all the threads I can find about the retrofit. I read the 700/900 retrofit that is online. I have an R12 system that was last really serviced in 2001 (several new hoses and a charge up). Despite being (to my knowledge) the original Di-Kiki compressor with 312k miles on it, it still kicks on when I jump the low-pressure switch on the rec/dryer.

I did this troubleshooting:
A/C failed about 6 mos ago. Ignored it until it got hot outside. It's a spare car and I have some space in the garage, so it gets a little attention now.
Jumped the low-pressure switch, compressor sounds normal, don't see anything in the sight-glass, temp at the vents with fan on high does not change at all after 1-2 mins with the compressor on.

I have the Volvo retrofit from FCPGro that includes the upgraded evap. So I will put that all in (there are a lot of leaves in the evap area and over the trans tunnel -- what to do about that? And any thoughts about adding a later-model hep/cabin filter in there ala the FWD cars while I've got things apart or will this just cause problems because you won't be able to change it way down the road?)

I'll pull the compressor and drain the oil and change the seals and add all the parts. I didn't think about changing the condenser until I read a couple of Chris Herbst's posts -- makes sense, but since this is a job I need to finish this weekend and I won't be able to get the part in time, will adding an electric pusher fan (and the bigger evap) get me far enough along that I'll at least see R12-like performance/temperatures? I'm in So Cal and we're in the middle of a mild heat wave (98 or so yesterday).

Some questions:
Since this is an '86 and presumably a TXV system, then I should not go hunting for the Orifice Tube, right? That whole Variable Orifice Valve upgrade is only applicable to the later cars, right?

No instructions, so where should I put the new T fitting with the Schraeder fill valve? Low side, right at the back of the compressor? Or is there a better place.

And where does the new hose that comes in the kit go -- from the comp to the evap? Seems like it by the size of the fittings, but I haven't torn much apart yet.

Do I really need ALL THAT BUTYL-based TAPE? I hate that stuff and they gave me 2 rolls of it. I know where it needs to go, but when will it be overkill?

Don't think I'll have any problems with the compressor, but if so, I have the compressor off a '93 940T laying around (car was crashed, I got the engine for the race car, didn't need A/C). PN 6841028 (also stamped SS-121DS5). Looks like all the other Sanden/DiKiki's (though it says Seiko Seiki). I will probably be upgrading the A/C on an 82 242T that we have that currently has a dead York -- if I don't need this comp for the job on the 245, any problems using it on the 242 (obviously with the 90+ PS/AC bracket).

After everything is installed on the 245, I will take it in for vacuum/charge and let them suck it and fill it. Am I missing anything other than sanity (considering the evap part of this job)? This is my first AC job. I've broken and fixed a lot of other stuff, but this system has always scared me. Thx in advance. Cheers.

Hope you properly recovered and disposed of the R12! The ozone layer is a handy thing to have around...

We just had our 740 converted to r134a about a week ago. Cools OK. I supplied the Volvo kits, had a shop do the work. Over my head and no time to deal with it myself.

The trick/problem with the 240 is that pre-'91 cars have a smaller evaporator than later ones (which is why the FCP kit for these cars is so pricey, as it has a new evaporator), which is why the cooling performance with r134a is marginal at best. Seems that folks have much better results retrofitting the 1991-92 cars.

-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1990 245 DL 133k M47, Cibié E-codes, Now with working wipers!
1991 745 GL 290k (Girlfriend-mobile)
Buckeye Volvo Club

About 5 years ago I did a retrofit on my 89 240 but without the volvo kit. I basically did everything other than the evap. On top I also added an electric pusher fan in front of the condenser.

It was barely not even acceptable in performance, unless cruising on the highway for a long trip. This was after multiple tries in getting the charge right.

Anyhow I kept it going like that for 5 years. This year seeing as I had to replace an oring at the txv I decided to try out freeze-12. What an abolsutely major improvement. I can almost say it blows icicles. At the most hot and humid day, it almost reaches max cold vent temp (i.e. triggers off the compressor with dial at 6 o'clock). It never remotely performed like that before.

Just wanted to sharer my story, in your case it is likey you will have good performance since you are changing the evap. Note that condensor is VERY important, if you can replace it go ahead, if not at least add a pusher fan in front.

Good luck!

Greg Mustang
Montreal - Canada

Your questions:

No orifice tube, you get a new TXV.

The instructions say to put that cute T-fitting in place of the factory fill valve just upstream of the dryer. I think you'll have to puzzle this one out; I couldn't.

The hose in the Volvo kit is a barrier type for compressor to condenser.

You may use only one roll of butyl tape.

Wear disposable gloves.

Can't advise you on the Seiko Seiki. Good idea to work with the shop you will have sucking this down and filling. Meet with them before starting the work. Tell them which parts you want to do. Leave yourself open to their suggestions. Let them know this is your baby and you want it right.
--
-K (hope springs eternal)

Thanks for the direct answers. That T-fitting placement is strange -- the instructions you have aren't for the CCOT system, are they? (I'm looking at this:
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/VolvoR134Conversion/R134ConversionPage2.htm#R134ConversionInstructionsPage2
-- the bottom diagram shows installing a similar t-fitting with a fill valve -- and that would make sense on the CCOT system, which is what it seems like everybody who does this has documented, not the TXV). I was under the impression that the pressures are different at the rec/dryer on the two systems and you didn't want to touch that part of the system on TXV because it's the high-pressure side.

"Wear disposable gloves." Hah! :) Only one roll of butyl, but two boxes of gloves were used in this conversion! That stuff haunts me. I did the tailgate wiring and they used it everywhere on that -- I don't get it. Sadists...

The shop I'm working with is my buddy who has an independent Volvo repair shop, but never seems to have time to work on my car (even when I tell him I want to pay shop rate so he'll do it right). He does great work though. He's been some help along the way with this, but doesn't even want to touch the evap job. But I can't blame him, I don't want to do it either. I'm kind of forced to do it all, except the evac/charge. Wondering if I should add a fake part somewhere on there that's obviously out of place (but not really hooked up) just to mess with him?! :)

Butyl....butyl.... everywhere!

The dash is full of the stuff! All over all of the wiring. Even when I simply put a VCOA decal on the inside of the 745's rear glass, I got butyl all over my fingers! :)

It's good/bad that you're considering doing the evap yourself... probably save yourself a few hundred bucks, unless your friend with the shop is getting paid with beer. :) Still a major PITA. Probably a good time to do the blower motor if it's original.

Have you seen Art Benstein's heater core page? Probably a good roadmap...

Good luck!
-Ryan


--

Athens, Ohio
1990 245 DL 133k M47, Cibié E-codes, Now with working wipers!
1991 745 GL 290k (Girlfriend-mobile)
Buckeye Volvo Club

The other big problem is that my buddy DOESN'T DRINK BEER! Argh! He's virtually bribe-proof.

Already done the blower motor. Not as bad as everyone makes it out to be, except for all the friggin' butyl! Thank god for Simple Green degreaser. Seems to kill Butyl very well (and you can throw it in your laundry, too).

I did the retrofit in the '86 a few years ago without the Volvo kit. Getting the evap out really wasn't all that bad. You already have part of it disconnected when you replace the exapansion valve anyway. I didn't replace mine, but I had the leaves (along with what appeared to be matted pet hair) all over mine so I took it out and vacuumed everything out. Didn't know enough to replace the evaporator at the time (probably would have done it).

I know why they give you the T fitting, and that is because it is such a PITA to do the fill from the back of the compressor. But, I did the "stick on" fill valves on the back of the compressor and that has worked fine (just a PITA to reach when you have to do a fill or check the charge). You can get these at most auto stores and they come with a screw on/stick on valve for the low and high side.

I don't think I'd try to add a cabin filter. I don't know how you'd actually do it, and if you have to get to the evaporator level to change it then it will be too big of a pain to change!

I really don't think the entire job is too difficult as long as you have access to the equipment to evacuate the remaining charge, to do the vacuum down, and to do a refill. It only took me a few hours to do it all.

Good luck!

Mike

--
Mike Brown Greenville, NC 1996 965 139K 1994 940 137K 1986 244 137K (odometer broken)

I'm partway through the retrofit on a 1991 240. So far I can add that you will need new O-rings for the compressor fittings (not in the Volvo kit). Also do you have a vacuum pump to draw down the system after you get all of the parts in?

Brian Mee

91 240
90 240 DL

Hello,

The fill valves go on the back of the compressor on an 86 Model. Recommend taking the air intake hose loose from the breather box and getting the AMM out of the way. You will be able to reach the bolts and fittings that way. Be prepared for crap Volvo insulation on the wires going to the compressor and the low pressure switch. Just replaced all that on my 86 model.

The tape is used inside the car around the Expansion Valve and pipes to prevent water from dripping on the floor. I would make liberal use of it inside the car. Pull the passengers seat and the glove box, makes reaching all that inside stuff much easier.

I would not even start this job without a new expansion valve, all the orings, and a new dryer by the way.

Now about how it cools vs R12 the system. The R12 system will easily beat a R134 at higher temps. The bigger evap and the pusher fan will get it working decently. And decently is far better than not at all.

One other thing to check, be sure the system is empty. A clogged expansion valve will make the system not cool but there will still be high pressure present. You may want to check the pressure in the system before starting the tear down. Have a small container to catch the oil that drips out inside the car is one more tip.

Good Luck,

PT

I purchased several spare O-rings (for the compressor since I realized the kit didn't have them and also for other pipes, just in case).

I had already planned to replace a portion of the loom coming off the compressor. It has been spliced a number of times -- I was going to go in there with real splices, heat shrink, and some split loom. (I have also insulated some of the A/C hoses where they contact hard parts of the engine with split loom and outer surplus hose used as sheathing -- makes life easier).

The kit contains the evap, the expansion valve, a new hose, all the o-rings (save for the compressor), ester oil, a t-fitting with a schrader in it (that's what I was wondering about, since you can't easily use the R12 fittings on the back of the compressor anymore), a rec/dryer, and the butyl tape (I think that's everything). I've done the blower motor before, so I'm not really afraid of the evap job.

I didn't realize the expansion valve could be clogged. What's the best way to check for high side pressure or to confirm the valve is clogged? I did not think the 240's had a way to measure the high-pressure side. (I have an R134a manifold gauge set -- don't think it has R12 adapter fittings). Would the clogged valve also cause low pressure at the receiver/dryer (thereby keeping the compressor from cycling)?

Thanks for the input. Ah, the joy of cars...

Hi -

I did not think the 240's had a way to measure the high-pressure side. (I have an R134a manifold gauge set -- don't think it has R12 adapter fittings).

All the 240 compressors I have seen (none newer than 1988) had both high side and low side fittings. My R-12 guage manifold has valves and hoses to connect to both. Other than the PITA of connecting the hoses to the compressor it should be easy to check both the high side and low side pressures.

I understand that a gauge manifold for R-12 should not be used with R134a. Different pressure rnages, and maybe other things.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)