Hello,

I bought vintage IPD wheels from Ebay. After taking them to my local tire shop for mounting, they told me the rims didn't quite fit and had some play in them. I took them home and, with jack in place, mounted the rim on my 1970 142S and looked for myself. The rim did appear a little off center, part of the rotor was exposed, and the fit was not exactly flush. The wheel did match the studs and was 15" like the original. It looked darn close but just not close enough. I'm thinking that the wheel caps that were not included\offered in the auction do more than just cover up the lugnuts. Perhaps they are an integral part of the rim's mounting system? Can anybody confirm this and is there a source for these wheel caps? I am very unfamiliar with aftermarket rims and don't know if IPD or other companies still include some type of center cap (or spacer?) that would be compatible with these rims. The rims I have are plain aluminum ones that IPD supposedly sold in the 1970s. In the IPD vintage catalog there is a picture of a car with one of these bygone rims on it, and it appears to fit well. I spent $200 for this set of rims, and I hate having them just sit in the garage. Any help would be much appreciated.

I took the eom steel wheel off today and removed the two screws connected to the rotor. The vintage rims fit wonderfully flush. I saw indentations on the back of the "new" rims. Perhaps the tire shop and myself did not line these up as we should have. But I think I'll just remove the unnecessary screws and keep them in a "just in case I need them after all box". Hopefully I can get my car into the shop next week to swap the tires\wheels out. Maybe by then I can figure out how to post before and after pics of the Volvo. Many, many thanks for all the excellent suggestions. Saving $200 worth of parts is a great feeling!

Hello,
My old mag wheels had indentions milled into the back side of the wheel to allow for the screws.
My new mag wheels did not have the indentions, So I took a wide drill bit and took out enough to let the wheel sit flush.
I was not sure if those screws were important enough to do without, but it seems to me that they are not really needed.

Joel
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Antique Swedish Steel (Never Rusty) Silver 71 142E

I had the same sort of problem with some Minlite replica rims but once the existing screws were replaced with counter sunk screws the flat side of the rims could sit flush onto the brake discs. I too thought I had spent $250 for nothing but they now run true and look great. I hope this is your problem too.
Feled

Are the screws that hold the disc on fouling the back of the flat part of the rim? If so, just remove them, you don't really need them. Some rims don't have any room for the heads of those screws.

Can you take a few pictures of the rims & beam them up or give a http:// address to the rims an IPD?

Hello All,

Thanks for the suggestions. So the idea is that I remove the screw from the brake disk and possibly replace it with a countersunk one? I will certainly look into it, probably this weekend. As for pictures of the rims, one of them can be found in the IPD performance catalog (pg. 62 I think) concerning the OXY brush. It has a message over the picture saying "wheel not available". Better pictures can be found at Ebay at:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=018&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=280113009785&rd=1,1#ebayphotohosting

It is item # 280113009785

Sorry I can't just put a picture of them here, I don't know how yet.

Thanks again.

Most of my cars don't have those screws there anymore, they aren't really required. I like Feled's idea better, but I think you'd have to countersink the two holes in the disc to make the whole wheel mounting area flush with contersink screws.

Put one on the front,spin it,and hold something to the bead to see how true/how much hop there is.
Caps are decorative,and spacers would change offset not centering.
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71-145-S ; 72-145-E ; 72-1800-ES