i am still having a terrible time with this car. i keep seeing things on here about checking codes. is that something i can do on my car, and if so, how do i do it???

Yes, you can do this check by yourself
Try to get the Bentley Volvo "bible "of the 200-serie
In that manual it is explain how to do this.

First thing is do you have spark, fuel and is the timing belt on correctly (is it timed). You replaced the 25 amp fuse but are the connections in the fuse holder and battery good, clean and corrosion free?
Dan



Lucid's last post on the subject will get you going in the right direction.



One of the first things to check when a 240 just shuts off while running is the timing belt. Look down thru the oil fill hole while someone works the starter, to make sure the camshaft is turning. Even then, it could have "jumped" out of time if loose, stretched, or oily. (By any chance did you just take your foot off the "gas" after accellerating, when the engine just stopped?)

I'd say not to fixate on vacuum hoses or the hissy noise. My recollection is that besides the brake booster hose there are only 3 vacuum hoses on your '87, none of which could make the engine "just shut off".

Engine operation begins with the ignition, which does two things:
1) Provides the spark at the plugs (is that happening?)
and
2) "Allows" the fuel system to operate (no ignition means the Fuel relay doesn't "pick", so the pumps don't run).

Both 1 and 2 above must occur at the correct time, in relation to the positions of the valves and pistons. This means the camshaft and crankshaft must be "in time" with each other and with the ignition distributor rotor.

There are marks on the camshaft, crankshaft, and distributor body that will coincide if this this basic timing is correct. Ask your helper if he is familiar with this principle, or would like further help in checking it out. (A 15/16" socket on the crank pulley bolt and 2 or 3 minutes are all that's needed.)
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

if it is the timing belt, would the car start at all??? because occasionally when we jumper something or spray carb cleaner into it, it will start, just wont stay running.

yes, i have spark. yes, it has fuel. going to check timing belt today at some point.

It will start if the timing belt is a tooth or two off. The timing belt is very important.

Have you tried starting the car with the connector for the Air Mass meter removed? Disconnect with the key off. If it runs your problem may be the AMM.
Parts can be bought reasonably from online vendors like FCPgroton.com and eeuroparts.com.

Dan

Assuming you have an 89 - 93 you can check codes as follows.

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm
Dan

no, i have an 87, so i assume there is no way to check any codes???

That is correct. You will need to describe your symptoms and let the BB respond. Dan

hi, me again. car still not starting properly. put new pressure relief valve on today. 2 new questions. the computer that is inside the car, on the passenger side....what is that for and could it possibly have something to do with my problem?? Also where is the mass air flow sensor??? 2 things ive been told to look into, but i figured id check with you guys before i got into something unnecessary. thanks again

ECU or fuel injection computer, what year is the car?
AMM is just after the air filter box before the throttle body. Dan

the car is a 1987 240 wagon

Frgyjmpr2000,

I sense the frustration in your latest update.

I was thinking about the odd results your friend got when he used a 12V test light to probe the injectors; the car started when before it would not. Using a standard test light on the injectors is not a logical check. But I was at a loss to explain how doing so would change the symptoms as you reported. Then it dawned on me; ground through the bulb. Have him check the ground point for the injectors. If that is corroded or loose, it would explain every symptom you've reported so far.

Also, buy a "noid light" for your friend. These are available at NAPA auto parts stores for less than $20. (Tell the person at the counter you want a noid light for a Bosch fuel injection system.) With that tool he can check the injector harness for firing pulses. That is an easy check and will help lead him to the ultimate solution to this problem. Plus, he will have it in his toolbox and always think of you when he uses it. ;-)
--
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 51 year old fat man ;-) -- KD5QBL

have already described all symptoms. getting some help, but this car is going to be the death of me.

I was just checking in. I'm at work and cannot devote the time necessary to properly answer your post.

Dan, from previous posts by Frgyjmpr2000, the car died in use and has not run (properly) since. The fuel pumps have been replaced. The main fuse was replaced (definitely blown). The last report I saw was the FPR was being replaced.

Frgyjmpr2000, did you give your mechanic the Brickboard FAQ link? Please update us and let us know what has and what has not been checked or replaced.

Fuel pressure?
Timing (mechanical and spark)?
What sensors have been tested? Results?
Original wiring harness?
Battery voltage?

Please tell us what the current symptoms are.
--
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 51 year old fat man ;-) -- KD5QBL

ok, at this point, we have replaced both pumps, fuel filter, and 25 fuse. batter is good...only about 2 months old. wiring all seems to be good and in working order. also replaced the fuel pump relay. replaced the FPR, but with used one that was also bad, so now have to do that on Monday. parts for this car are a little pricey!!! going to check timing belt. and im not sure what you mean by sensors, but i will relay the message to mechanic. thanks so much guys.

Frgyjmpr2000,

The sensors are how the computer knows how much fuel to inject and when to pulse the injectors ON for various circumstances. If, for instance, the coolant temperature sensor is out of range, the computer will recognize that and use a default value for starting and running. This is known as "limp" mode and results in poor performance but will get you home. Sensors can also supply information to the computer that is wrong but within the range the computer recognizes as good data. That can cause major drivability problems but shouldn't prevent the car from starting; it will run like crap but it should start.

See the other post I left this morning for a suggestion. If that proves out to be a dead end, you can post again on this problem. (Start a new thread, they get difficult to follow once the thread gets longer.)

If your friend isn't so frustrated that he wants to give up, we'll get to the problem methodically. Don't buy any more parts until you have test results to verify the fault. As I mentioned in my very first response to your request for help, replacing parts as a troubleshooting technique is expensive and frustrating.

Tell your friend we here on the board will be more than happy to guide him as best we can. Meanwhile, he NEEDS a service manual. You should be able to find a Haynes manual for your car at any auto parts store. A better manual is made by Bentley Publishers. I think you might find that at Barnes & Noble; certainly you can buy it on the internet.
--
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 51 year old fat man ;-) -- KD5QBL