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When i drive on the freeway, and i brake, sometimes the steering wheel will begin shuddering, and i can feel a pulse on my braking foot. THis usually happens only when i'm driving at least 60mph. does this mean that my rotors are warped?
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posted by
someone claiming to be Farm Boy
on
Thu Aug 2 17:38 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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The pulse you feel in your foot is almost certainly a warped rotor. The fact that you are picking up a shake at 80 mph may be a combination of warped rotor and a little play somewhere, or it may be a wheel out of balance that is totally unrelated to the warped rotor.
I would not worry about calipers. Nothing you have reported points to any trouble with them, other than a stuck caliper can lead to a hot rotor, which can in turn contribute to warping. You will find out if you have a stuck caliper when you push your pistons back to replace your pads and rotors.
I have been living with a pulsing brake pedal on the '91 245 for years, waiting for these cheap NAPA rotors to wear out so I can replace them. One of them warped within two months of putting it on; GRRRR.
I put Brembo rotors and ATE delux pads all the way around the daughter's 328 BMW about 1000 miles ago. The Brembos were made in Mexico, which gave me pause when I saw the boxes, but so far, no complaints. Quiet, smooth, reasonable dust. We have not pushed them to the fade point or driven them in the rain, so I can't speak to adverse conditions yet. The price was great.
Many have written about their experiences with different brands of rotors and pads. I would avoid drilled rotors on a brick. Slotted rotors are probably OK if you feel like investing some extra $$, but I wouldn't.
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I've had this symptom with bad tie rod ends-- jack up the front end and feel for play by tugging at 3 & 9 o'clock on the tire. You should feel no detectable play if the joints are good.
Balljoints can checked by pushing and pulling at 12 & 6, but this is less definitive unless you unload the joint with a prybar.
Tie rods are easy to replace, the balljoints are a little more involved, but also not bad.
Good luck!
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Herb Goltz, Aurora, Ontario, Canada '92 245 140K mi, '92 945t 210K mi
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okay i lifted it up, and it doesnt seem like there is too much of a left and right play. maybe a quarter of an inch at most. I also notice that when i drive above 80 mph, that the wheel will start shaking too. could it have to do with alignment?
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A quarter inch of left right play at the wheel is lots-- jack up the other side and compare. The trick in diagnosing suspension parts like this is to find where the movement gets lost-- cup your hand around the joint and have someone else rock the wheel. There really should be no real perceptible play...
Good luck and avoid driving 80mph till you sort this out!
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Herb Goltz, Aurora, Ontario, Canada '92 245 140K mi, '92 945t 210K mi
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well i think some movement was involved in the steering. I locked the steering wheel, i figure that would hold it
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Either your front rotors are warped or the front wheels/ball joints are loose. Most likely, warped rotors. Don't bother having them turned, just replace them. Also once the rotors are replaced, do NOT overtighten the wheel lugs, otherwise, you will warp the new ones as well.
jorrell
ps. The rear rotors can cause a "shimmy" but doesn't compare to warped front rotors.
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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I think my left rear rotor is warped in the 940. It kind of hums and grumbles as I drive slowly. The pads were worn considerably more than the right but both lefts were worn evenly. I had to use a bar and pipe to get the wheel off the first time! Looks like time to get a new pair of rear rotors.
Can anyone explain how overtightening can cause the rotors to warp?
There is a considerable difference in price between FCP's genuine Volvo and and the ATE rotors. Any recommendations
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Can anyone explain how overtightening can cause the rotors to warp?
Yes, the bearing flange that holds the lug bolts is not perfectly flat. As a result, if you over torque the lug nuts, the wheel will force the rotor to deflect against the variations in the flange. After a few heat cycles, the rotor yields and takes to the new "shape". This causes the rotor to warp.
If you need validation, ask an old Ford master what causes rotors to warp! Volvo used the same design on the 240 as the majority of the late 60's Fords did.
jorrell
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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i'll check the tie rods when i get the chance, but say the rotors are warped. on IPD, they have vented, and then cross drilled as well. Say i want to upgrade, would i also have to buy new calipers and etc.? or would a new rotor do fine?
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I believe you have an 88, so it should be good to go with vented rotors as they came from the factory that way. On the front of our 92 245, I have gone with ATE Power discs rotors. I can honestly say that with PBR pads, I have abused the SNOT out of them with no evidence of warping. Yes, I drove them to the point of glowing at a dark orange color on the track and they recovered without warp. As a result, I can assure you that they are not "track rated", but they are very very close. In my mind, this makes them ideal for street use and abuse. After all, race brake systems are worthless on the street (not enough heat to make them work).
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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hrm. so if i were to want to upgrade....it would be possible with just new rotors? (a.k.a. an easy swap)
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