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MAF or ? 200

I've got a 89 245 that belongs to a friend whose local wrench can't solve this problem- so far neither can I! The car had a bad prepump & eventually burned out the fuel pump. The hose on the prepump was also ruptured. I replaced these but still have a problem. The car will not idle unless I disconnect the mass airflow sensor & even with it disconnected it will not accelerate & will then backfire mightily through the exhaust [think howitzer NOT shotgun]. Fuel pressure is 35psi going up to 42psi with vac hose disconnected from fuel pressure regulator. The fuel filter had been changed before I got it & the plugs,wires, rotor,& dist cap are all new. I tried a new MAF sensor & the car ran for a while but accelerated poorly & my friend complained of extreme fuel usage [gauge is kaput]. Now it seems we are at square one. I also tried replacing the fuelpump relay but to no avail. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Mike M.








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    MAF or ? 200

    If the car runs noticable better with a known good MAF, or with the MAF unplugged (AMM as we call them in volvo world) then likely the MAF is bad. That's a start.

    If it consumes insane fuel after that then the o2 sensor could be shot, causing the car to run full rich. You can measure it's output to see.

    Also check the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line is pulling good vacuum and has no leak. Make sure there is no fuel leaking into the vacuum side as well. Best ot replace the fpr with a known good one if possible too.

    Depending on the condition of the maintanance, you could be due for a basic ignition tune-up, wires, cap/rotor,ir filter and plugs.

    Greg Mustang
    Montreal - Canada
    www.volvoclassic.bravehost.com
    --
    Greg Mustang - www.volvoclassic.bravehost.com








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    MAF or ? 200

    Did this issue come on suddenly or has the car been sitting?

    I was wondering how clean the air filter is? Any mouse nests in there?

    Any gas smell at the return hose of the Fuel pressure regulator?

    Timing, did you see if the Timing Belt is correct? A few teeth off and you might get these symptoms

    Sorry, i didn't answer anything, just throwing some thoughts out at you
    --
    '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm








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    MAF or ? 200

    Check the plugs, if they are black with soot, save them for cleaning and put in a new set of Bosch WR 7 DC, gapped to .028" which is the plug and gap for my 1988 244 which has LH 2.2, whereas your car has the LH 3.1 (I think) and the spec may differ.

    In any case, the specifications section of your Owner's Manual will have the correct plug and gap spec. You can get an Owner's Manual at 1-800-25-VOLVO or at www.volvotechinfo.com.

    After testing the above, get a new throttle body gasket, and pull and clean the throttle body. Be careful of getting cleaner into the throttle position switch. The TPS switch must be check and adjusted so that it clicks just when the throttle plate gets fully closed. While you are in that neighborhood service and check the flame trap, too.

    Check the Idle Air Control unit. With everything off, pull the harness off and check with an ohmmeter for continuity between each pair of terminals. Any showing open circuit means (1) check again, and (2) the IAC is toast and must be replaced. If continuity is OK, pull the IAC off and clean the mechanical end. Hold it with the harness connection up, and use carb cleaner spray through the opening on the mechanical end. Shake it to be sure the piston is free moving.

    Reinstall all that and test the car again.

    Post back with your results.

    Good Luck,

    Bob

    :>)







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