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I'm wanting to make some performance enhancing changes to my stock exhaust on my '70 142. It's got the 2.0l B20b, and I'm trying to eek out a bit more hp if I can. Local custom shop suggested glass packs. Any suggestions on a headers and perhaps a quieter performance exhaust? Really, ANY input would be appreciated, as I'm a bit new to the car thing.
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Any suggestions on a headers and perhaps a quieter performance exhaust? Really, ANY input would be appreciated, as I'm a bit new to the car thing.
The original Volvo mufflers are high quality glasspack(absorption) type mufflers. I go with a stock B20E system or one of the popular Scandik brand kits for a stockish engine. Original B20BE & E's do make good HP/Cubic inch & part of the reason is because the exhaust system is good.
If you're looking at Volvo style mufflers, looking up the inlet end reveals a straight through glass pack design with perforated holes, looking in the other end reveals a mandrel 80+ degree bend. 2" OD for B20B & 2.125" OD for B20E's.
4-2-1 Headers: Each level of performance modifications requires a different size header. Example: For a B20 with a stock hear, 1.5" OD primaries leading in to 1.75" OD secondaries into a 2.125" pipe from the headers to first muffler is the sizes you want. Now if you have a carefully ported head with, you can ad .125" of an inch to those dimensions. My point is, if you put the larger size headers on to a stock head, then you will loose power. Alternately, if you by the small bore headers, than they will be too small for feature modifications & the small bore headers perform barely any better than standard.
4-1 Headers: BHP's 1.5" x 32" headers with a step up to 1.625" half way along their length are the ultimate for a stock B20E. On a bigger motor I have used both 1.625 x 32" long & 1.75" x 29" headers, but both of these would be useless on a stock head B20 compared to a standard, high quality B20E exhaust.
For a stock head B20, I'd use a stockish exhaust manifold & I'd like to try an engine pipe with it's dual 1.75" pipes lengthened to 24" feeding into a 2.125" pipe that joins the 2 pipes to the first muffler. A megaphone that steps the 2.125" pipe up to 2.5" mufflers with a 2.5" over axle pipe leading in to a 2nd muffler would be good & then if this is too loud, you could neck the tail pipe that leads out of the last muffler back down in size to 2.125". Remember the the exhaust gasses are cooling after they leave the engine & that reducing the exhaust size at the tail end doesn't restrict as much as you'd think because the volume of gas is much less by the time it gets to the end of the car.
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Excellent writeup!
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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I purchased my upgraded exhaust system in complete kit form from Skandix (www.Skandix.com). Very simple to install and follows the same pattern as the original. Includes 2" pipe, pipe to header (exhaust manifold) with two outlets, and the necessary clamps, bolts, and rubber O-rings. Reasonable price and I really like it. The problem with simply having a custom shop do their own thing is that they sometimes deviate from the original exhaust pattern and this could get in the way of upgrades\repairs you may do in the future. Grassroots motorsports encountered this problem when they had a shop install a custom exhaust on their 142 project. As far as headers are concerned, I have heard repeatedly on this board that the FI exhaust manifold is as good or better than most aftermarket headers. That's what I converted to and I'm pleased with the results. Best of luck!
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How do you go about finding a FI exhaust manifold? Any suggestions as to where to look? Will any 140 FI exhaust manifold fit a 1970 142s?
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Hello,
I think I used a '73 or '74 exhaust manifold on my 1970 142S. I found one on Ebay, and they sell them there fairly often. Be sure to get one without a hairline crack down the center or be prepared to do some welding. As far as fitment is concerned, the pre-1968 intake I used was not exactly flush with the FI exhaust. In other words, one piece stuck out a little farther than the other. Use of some half washers or (even better) machining by a shop will produce an acceptably flush mounting surface that won't bend or break the manifold studs and hold that gasket down firmly. As another poster mentioned, if you converted to a Weber carb with Cannon manifold, you probably won't need to do anything special.
However, if your car is in its original state, I assume it has the one piece intake\exhaust manifold and Stomberg carbs. If this is so and you need a separate intake manifold, I have an extra one lying around. Just drop me an e-mail and I'll send it out no charge if you live in the U.S. If you've still got the Strombergs, I'd recommend swapping them for something else like HS6 SU carbs. I think you'll get an H.P. boost from that alone. I know I did.
It sounds like you're about to embark on the same project I've been tinkering with on the exact same vehicle for the past several months. Best of luck to you!
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Hey,
Thanks for all the good onfo. Yeah, I'd be happy to have that intake. Send it to Joe Pirus / 4529 Foothill Dr / Boise, ID 83703. I tried e-mailing you but my computer is having some issues. Let me know what shipping costs and I'll gladly reimburse you.
This little 142 is such a sweet car. Got her for $700 off of Craig's List from some high school grad. New tires and I'm in to it just under $1000. 171,500 original miles. BW35. She runs great. She had some expensive carb work done not long before I got her. Yeah, stock Strombergs. Body's in great shape, too. No rust.
I'm more than a little obsessed about sweetening up this little car. Can't wait. In the meantime I have a worn out turn signal switch I need to find a replacement for and a heater blower motor I need to fix or replace. And soon, as it's getting colder up here in Boise. She needs some new shocks and new tie rods, too. And a new dash, since some jerk broke the old dash yanking out the kid's car stereo. One thing at a time.
I'll post some pics soon.
More soon.
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Hi Joe,
I noticed you need something for your dash,
or a new dash.
I have the dash insert in good condition,
but the dash is cracked.
Ken
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71-145-S ; 72-145-E ; 72-1800-ES
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Hello,
I'll ship out an intake and heat shield tomorrow. Don't worry about shipping since it's made out of light aluminum.
If you were interested in the car's performance as-is, I might encourage you to retain the existing setup as the one piece manifold is designed to maximize warm-up in colder climates. However, the intake\exhaust manifold combo is heavier, has an extra set of "throttle plates", and has passages that Road & Track described as "torturous". 1970 stock is certainly not the ideal setup if you're looking for more power.
In regards to carbs, at one point I shelled out lots of cash to have my old Stombergs rebuilt and the stock car runs well on a perfectly tuned set. The problem with them is that they do not stay in tune for long and do not readily adapt to performance changes in other areas of the engine\exhaust. I noticed very little from my upgrades until I switched out the Strombergs for SUs. I think even converting to the Weber DGV would be a better choice. Rhys (a great contributor) from S.U.'s only, or Joe Curto, or www.ztherapy.com are all super resources if you wish to research carb conversions further.
It's great that most of the stuff you've got to replace should prove easy and straightforword. All except that heater. That's a bear or a job you should plan a weekend around. And ongratulations on finding a BW35 in good shape. Those are hard to come by.
Good luck!
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My man - Got the intake and heat shield yesterday. Thanks a lot. I'll look aroung for that exhaust mani while I work on all that other stuff. I should do my homework on the carbs and just switch all that stuff at once, probably in the spring when it starts to warm up. I'll take advantage of that one piece mani for one winter, at least. Do you know of any good resources for interior stuff (like a dashboard)? Other than ebay? Just curious. Thanks again!
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Hello,
Waiting until spring to do the conversion sounds like the smart thing to do, especially since everything seems to be running acceptably right now. As far as interior pieces go, I'd recommend trying volvoworld (www.vlvworld.com) and asking whether they have any interior parts. Although it may not be listed in the catalog, they might have some good pieces if you e-mail them as they claim to dissasemble vehicles themselves. Also a good resource I've used is the classified section on this site and on IPD (www.ipdusa.com). For a cheap fix to a cracked dash, the carpet covers actually don't look too chincy on this type of vehicle, and the radio "middle dash" area is just painted aluminum. If you really want a selection, check out the annual yard sale IPD has in Oregon. I've heard really good things. For some really great interior budget ideas, check out the restoration pics and articles on the Grassroots Motorsports 142 renovation. Just type "Volvo 142" in Google and it should be the first thing to pop up (with a picture of a white 142S).
Best of luck and have fun!
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I've got a bunch of 140 things.
Too bad, I just sold a dash last weekend.
Send me an e-mail if you need other items.
--
Tom - '60 544, '68 220S, '70 145S, '86 745T, '06 Mazda MPV
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Tom - I'm looking for a bunch of stuff for my '70 142. Most importantly I'm trying to find a heater blower motor. The bushings on mine are shot. I could also use a windshield wiper fluid reservoir, a turn signal switch, black armrests for the rear seats, a white/cream colored driver's side sun visor, and hydraulics for the trunk hinges. I think that's all. Please let me know if you have any of those items and what they are worth to you. Thanks. - Joe
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Marc(bridgetown142 on here if I remember correctly) is selling a blower motor, send him an email.
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/461474961.html
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Kyle - 244! - Kawasaki Ninja 250R - Oregon Volvo Tuners?
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Joe,
I sent you an private e-mail.
I'll be getting back to you later.
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Tom - '60 544, '68 220S, '70 145S, '86 745T, '06 Mazda MPV
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Tom - I never did receive that e-mail. Try me @ joepirus@clearwire.net. - Joe
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I installed a '73 FI exh. manifold on my '71 144S. I replaced the 4-1 manifold that IPD used to sell as the headers kept smacking the rear of the A-arm...the headers only fit some of the 140's, and I don't own any ones it fits (I have 2 '71 145 & 1 '71 144. These may fit the 142s. I am running a weber 32/36 setup so the installation was easy as the weber manifold mates right up to the FI manifold. Run the dual pipes to the collector using the stock size from manifold, then run 2" straight back w/ 24" long thrush glasspack 2" ID & OD, to 240 resonator 3/4 of the way back and straight pipe out. Sounds good.
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"Will any 140 FI exhaust manifold fit a 1970 142s? "
Yes(1800e or es will work as well), but if you install an FI exhaust manifold, you'll have to get creative with your intake. I assume your car has an integrated exhaust and intake manifold, so if you replace the exhaust manifold with a separate FI version, you'll have to come up with something to hold the carbs up. Using an aluminum intake from a B18 is common.
Take a look through my galleries, they might shed some light on things. I loved my Skandix exhaust by the way, it was quiet, and flowed very well for what it was. I'd love it even more if it were 2.25" and louder though... :)
My 142's gallery
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Kyle - 244! - Kawasaki Ninja 250R - Oregon Volvo Tuners?
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Simply install a stock exhaust system for a 71-73 fuel injected car. It fits right on, and is larger diameter pipe and less restrictive mufflers. This has the big plus of being no louder than the original. To get the full performance benefit, you will need to change everything after the mainfold, and depending on which manifold you now have, you may want to change that too, either to a better type of cast iron one, or perhaps a tubular header.
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