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There is a steering column in the local junkyard from a '67 122. It has a collapsible steering column. Can someone tee me how to remove it? Do I need a steering wheel puller?
Paul
BTW-If anyone can use some parts from this car, let me know. It's a '67 122 station wagon.
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If you have a small hand sledge, I'd bring that to break loose the steering arm and center rod from the pittman arm (end of steering column). Maybe you've done this before, but I've found separating these can be the most difficult part of removing the box from a car. remove the cotter pin, undo the nut, and then while pulling down hard on the steering rod, pound on the end of the pittman arm - which will help release the taper - keep pounding and it'll release.
Another thing, bring PB blaster or some similar lubricant for the three bolts that hold the box to the body. Galvinic action with the aluminum box body can cheese up the nuts and bolts - and you'll need a wrench/socket on both ends of these bolts (after you chip off the undercoating on the outboard side) because those nuts tend to rust in place and the bolts will spin rather than release.
If it's a '68 - I'd be interested in the dual MC and the booster.
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The MC was the dual without a booster and I got it, it has the vertical bolt setup, the reservoir was gone. You could have it for what I paid for it.
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Dan-
I was thinking of running out again to grab the nose section and the crossmember. If you still want the door, I'll grab that too.
Paul
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Paul,
I could really use the 2 passenger side doors to save on bodywork when I get into painting my wagon, but I won't have time to get there this week I think.
If you have the tools to grab them, send me an e-mail off-line and we could maybe coordinate something before it's crushed.. thanks a lot.
nictalope at rocketmail . com, Dan
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I got the two parts I really wanted/needed; the hood and the steering box/column. I needed the puller (it was a harmonic balance puller kit-$15 from checkers) to get the steering wheel off.
Somebody already got the front calipers and rotors, so I just removed all the tie rods to the steering knuckles. No need to split the tie rods. I had the hood and the steering stuff done in about an hour and a half.
Not much left by today. It did have the dual MC (no booster), I was going to grab it for someone, but it was gone by this morning. This place drains all fluids before putting the cars out, they are not very nice about doing it (cut hoses and they pop the MC reservoirs off-the reservoir was missing)
Easier to say whats left.
-Four good complete doors (glass, internals, handles(no rear outside handles)etc.)(really only three- the driver's door looks good, but has alot of putty). Rest of the body parts are rusty or need to removed by power tools (power tools not allowed at JY-It's a self pull place). -Doors and body panels are $25 this weekend.
-Nose section is useable (been hit and puttied, but if reworked would be good. Very solid)
-Dash is there-Looks good (everything from the dash is gone-switches, speedometer, etc).
-Pedal cluster is there.
-Slave cylinder is there.
-Heater/blower is there.
-All the rest of glass is there (both tailgate sections are bad-the glass is good-I grabbed the hinges/lift if somebody needs them).
-Gas tank got it by the folk lift.
-Locking gas cap without the key.
-The interior hinged hatched that covers the gas tank is there.
-The interior is bad shape (all there)
-Sunvisors (worn)
-Threshold covers.
-Seat belts are non retractable later style that have the release latch in the center tunnel (very worn).
-Rearend is there (spins ok).
-4 Wheels and spare are 4-1/2" rims (They wanted $20 each for the wheels ($6 per rim and $13 for the tires).
-Engine(B18) and transmission (M40).
-Intake/exhaust manifold.(I grabbed the all SU linkage if somebody needs it-I also have the exhaust washer for the return spring)
-front crossmember with everything upto the wheel bearing (spindles are there-no rotors/calipers).
-Driveshaft looks like it has a bad U-joint.
-Starter (no generator)
-Ignition has been replaced (Ron-no armoured coil, but I do have a good one from my car if you want it. Also grabbed the fusebox).
Can't really remember anything else, I'll look tomorrow to see what else I grabbed and don't need.
Paul
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as much of a pain it might be to get and store...
I'd be inclined to grab the cross member...
maybe I'm paranoid, but that stuck lower A-arm bolt sydrom spooks me... Having a spare on hand makes me happy.
(don't get it for me.. I've got my spare under the house...)
--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂
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real long shot, but thought I'd ask - any chance there's a roof rack?
great that you were able to get what you needed!!
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No roof rack! I wished I could have taken some pictures of what was left. The doors, rims and heater is the only thing that I think is worth getting, but I don't need any of it. I just hate to see that stuff go off the crusher.
Paul
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My hood came unlatched getting onto the freeway a couple of weeks ago. Trashed the hood and hinges, but nothing else. Luckly it wasn't during rush hour. My conclusion for the hood coming up was a faulty(bent) hood latch. Looked like the arm that cable is hooked to was bent and didn't allow the secondary latch from stopping the hood to open fully. Really bummed me out because the hood was really in great shape (needed to be painted). Besides the paint, I would have rated a 9 out of 10. The new hood is a 7.
Paul
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Paul;
In order to harvest the collapsible coupling, you will need to remove everything from the steeringbox to the steering wheel...there's just no other way how the collapsible joint (only) can be removed...I think that's what you were trying to find out...
I'd like the Ignition/Armored cable/Coil assembly and Vreg (no matter what shape they're in, for investigation) if available...also Fuseblock...and maybe I can think of some othe stuff! Please contact me off-line to set something up...
I suggest you become a one-man chopshop and save as much as you possibly can (or as your storage facility will allow)!
Cheers
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Man, this 67 wagon is making the rounds, I saw 3 different guys stop by the car today at the JY today and remove stuff (while I was getting some...) I bet it's the one in 33rd and Peoria...?
Anyway, a puller would do it.
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Man, this 67 wagon is making the rounds, I saw 3 different guys stop by the car today at the JY today and remove stuff (while I was getting some...) I bet it's the one in 33rd and Peoria...?
Anyway, a puller would do it.
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Yup! That's the one!
It use to belong (10 years ago) to a son of friend of mine in Grand Junction. The kid sold it to a shop in Boulder, and now it's weird to see it in a JY.
Paul
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speaking of 'the shop in Boulder'...
If it's the guy I'm thinking of (Steve), I got a call from his brother a few weeks back.. he said Steve is fixin' to close down shop, and is selling parts off cheap...
Those in the area that know him... might be a good time to call if he's still in the States (I've not spoken with Steve in more than 10 years, but I know he used to migrate south with the humming birds every winter)
--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂
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to get that steering column it'd be handy to remove the wheel, but you might be able to unbolt it and pull it out through the inside.
However, it'd be *far* easier to just bring a cheapo puller kit. It's worth the investment to have one. Those wheels are quite hard to remove...
By collapsible, are you meaning the 1968 style steering wheel with the grommet-things instead of the 4-hole disk?
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Yes, by collapsible I mean the double off center steering column instead of the disk with the 4-bolts. I want to get the whole thing from steering wheel to steering box.
I'll go pick up one of those cheapo puller kits tomorrow. Is there any sort of dimensions that I need to be looking for?
Paul
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