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ride height - FYI 200 1988

FYI

I have just finished a long run around trying to determine if I needed new springs prior to getting a front end alignment.

There are many posts on a sagging back ends and differences from left to right. Many measurements are being taken from different parts of the wheel arch to the wheel or ground.

There are also implications as to the health of bushings, shocks and springs.

I did find a link (http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/FrontSuspension.html)
that indicates (reportedly by Volvo) ride height is to be checked at each of the four jack point bars and that it not vary by more than 1/4 to 3/8 inch from one corner to the next.

"Don't forget that a sagging rear spring can also cause a ride height change in the front of the car. Careful measurements are needed at all four corners because it is possible for just one spring to be weak. This can cause a ride height difference diagonally, where the left rear corner, for example, is low, the right front may actually be high. Volvo recommends that ride height be checked at each of the four jack point bars and that it not vary by more than 1/4 to 3/8 inch from one corner to the next."

They also indicate that to compensate for differing wheels and/or tires that you measure from the fender arch to the center of the wheel.

"If your tires or wheels differ at each corner or tire pressure is not identical, eliminate their effects by measuring instead between the fender lip and the wheel center as noted in the photo at the right. Measure each wheel and then compare as noted above."

This might apply to the Volvo 700/900 cars but the 240 rear fender arch IS NOT (!?) at the same height as the front fender arch.

My measurements are:
-------------------------------------
From ground to jack point

front left 7 1/2
front right 7 3/8
rear left 7
rear right 7 1/4

This indicates, to me, a problem at the rear left and possibly the front left as that corner has suffered some wreckage over curbs.
-------------------------------------
For comparison:
-------------------------------------
From approx. center of wheel to top of fender arch.

front left 15 1/4
front right 16
rear left 13 1/2
rear right 12 1/2
-------------------------------------

1988 240 DL Sedan.








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    ride height - FYI 200 1988

    The information on measuring ride height at the jack points is something I hadn't been aware of. Thanks for posting it.

    Since you're examining ride height and wondering whether you need to replace rear springs - please be aware of this.

    The 240 has two rubber rear trailing arm bushings that cause the rear to sag up to about 3/4 inch when a bushing goes bad. In my experience the bushings last anywhere from 100 to 200 K miles. By now, any 240 is potentially a candidate for replacement rear TAB's due to accumulated mileage.

    I've seen people check those bushings using a really long prybar - I'd say about 3-4 feet. Replacement requires a special tool, buy it or build your own (it's been done). From reading previous threads here it's not a fun job to do in a driveway. Last time I had it done the cost was somewhere around $200 and that was at a pretty reasonable shop.

    I definitely recommend you get the rear TAB's checked if it's sagging back there. Think about springs after that if you need/like. It will never ride or handle properly if the bushings are shot. On the other hand, I drove my current car about 25K miles knowing that the bushings were bad, until I was ready to fork over the necessary money to replace them.
    --
    Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, quad horns, tach, small clock. Wifemobile '89 245







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