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Removing wiper motor....anything I need to know? 200 1982

I am replacing the rubber padding that runs along the firewall, just beneath the cowl and need to remove the wiper motor to allow for installation. It is the original motor and working fine. I see a couple of bolts and what appears to be a very simple job. Is there any surprises I need to know? How easy is it to remove and install the motor? TIA








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    Removing wiper motor....anything I need to know? 200 1982

    Where did you buy that rubber padding?

    Mine, like all, is falling and cracking
    --
    '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm








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    Removing wiper motor....anything I need to know? YES... 200 1982

    In addition to what yellowbrickroadster says, which is a good description, you should know that the motor shaft housing is very thoroughly sealed to the firewall.

    The shaft housing actually reaches through the firewall, through the air channel (about 2 inches) and a bit into the cabin. On the cabin end it fits through a grommet which, on installation of the shaft, wants to roll and get ruined. Lube it with a drop or two of ATF.

    In the engine bay, where the motor seals to the firewall, there is a significant amont of rope caulk. That's the black sticky stuff that is an excellent caulk and clothing stainer. Hard to get loose, get off, and replace. When I replaced the wiper motor on my 1986 I bought a box of rope caulk at a NAPA store, used about 10% of it. BTW, there might be a ground connection strap hidden under the caulking.

    In your situation, I would look very carefully at making a cut in the new padding right below the wiper motor location, and working at installing the pad without removing the motor. Rather like the way a bathroom flooring or carpet is cut to fit around the toilet.

    The cut would be located so that after installation it could be glued and sealed to prevent any leakage. A cut along the bottom of the hole might not be the best location. Maybe one from the driver's side upper corner and angling down to the bottom edge could be better sealed and glued. Fewer leaves there, IIRC.

    Good Luck,

    Bob

    :>)








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      Removing wiper motor....anything I need to know? YES... 200 1982



      I like Bob's suggestion to just cut the insulation and install around the motor so you don't have to remove it.

      It's not a huge PITA to remove the motor, but it's also not a whole lot of fun. Plus, not removing it saves you the risk of introducing leaks around the motor.

      -Ryan
      --

      Athens, Ohio
      1987 245 DL 314k, dog-mobile
      1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
      1991 745 GL 295k, Regina, 23/21mm turbo sway bars
      Buckeye Volvo Club








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        Removing wiper motor....anything I need to know? YES... 200 1982

        "I like Bob's suggestion to just cut the insulation and install around the motor so you don't have to remove it."

        Thanks everyone, I can always count on this site! As I was reading the first couple of posts, I had already started thinking of cutting the insulation to accomodate the install. This is the original motor and I don't want to mess with it if I don't have to and I'm not anxious to get into a lot of work. I have posted off and on over the years at this site and can tell you that the car is in mint condition and a 95.8% Councours d'Elegance winner (yes I am bragging!)

        The rubber/foam insulation has cracked and has started to fall apart. The part is no longer available ANYWHERE, however, I guy in California had one as NOS and it arrived in the mail yesterday. Brand new and grey in color which surprised me as mine is black. It has a peel-off sticky back for adhesion, however after 26yrs, I suspect the glue has dried out!

        All I have to do is make one carefull slit in the foam and carefully wrap it around the motor. It has to look good when finished so a little thought will have to go into it.

        I suspected that their would be some linkages that need disconnecting.

        Again, thanks for the heads up..

        Tony G
        CVC / VCOA Member








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          Removing wiper motor....anything I need to know? YES... 200 1982

          That gluey goopy gloppy stuff Volvo uses to Seal the Motor to the Firewall is reason enough to razor slice the pad.

          --
          '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm








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          Removing wiper motor....anything I need to know? More thoughts... 200 1982

          Been thinking.


          Look at the current installation. I recall that the hole in the foam is a rectangle, and larger than the motor. Perhaps the old foam removal could be a guide to the installation.

          Remove the electrical connector. If the current foam is peeled off beginning at the end at the passenger side, the hole might be big enough to sort of lift up and over the motor. Maybe with just a little stretching.

          That would be the best.

          Ask in another thread about spray on adhesive to use if the peel-off reveals dried and smooth old stuff. I know 3M makes some good stuff, maybe someone can say which on is best for that application.

          Good Luck,

          Bob

          :>)








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    Removing wiper motor....anything I need to know? 200 1982

    Removing the wiper motor is pretty straightforward. Unplug the electrical connection. There are three 10mm bolts that hold the motor in place, that you can see from the top. Before you loosen these, however, you need to get under the dash and disconnect the drive arm linkage. To do this -- also simple -- remove the underside trim piece under the glove box. You will see the drive linkage. It is held in place by 1 10mm bolt. There is also asplit ring lock washer thing that holds the arm in place. If I remeber correctly, remove the lock washer, this will allow you to move the linkage to get to teh bolt. Again, pretty obvious once you get in there.

    Mike







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