Hey all!
I haven't been around in about 3 years (I got married and paying off school debt took precedence over the 544 for awhile), but I recently jumped back on the horse and am progressing rapidly toward finishing up the PV. I won't bore you with a long update here (I'll bore you with it elsewhere soon.)

OK, so I'd been having an intermittent starting problem over the last couple of weeks. I'd turn the key, hear a click, and nothing would happen (the starter motor wouldn't turn). I figured it was the starter solenoid, since whacking that with a hammer a few times often allowed me to start it.

This morning I changed out the starter motor (I had a couple of spares sitting around), and the car turned over the first time I turned the key (but didn't start). Then (and this is the interesting part) nothing. Nada. Now I have no juice at all. The battery still shows 12+ volts, and no fuses are blown (and I checked continuity across them just to be sure), but I have no juice. The car is basically acting like the battery's disconnected. No lights, no nothing. So my question is: Did I fry my starter switch? I have an armored cable to the coil, so I hope not. Any ideas of where to start? Electrics are about my weakest area.....

Thanks in advance, and have a great Thanksgiving!
--Ethan

I should mention that I have a Crane Cams electronic ignition and an alternator upgrade, but I don't think that would effect this, right?

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'64 PVMoneypit

Ethan;

Welcome back!

I also doubt you starter switch is suspect...as others have mentioned, it sounds like the battery may indeed be "disconnected" (because of a poor connection)...otherwise it may also be dead (as in discharged) such that the voltage is collapsing totally under the high starting load...but recovering to show 12V under the miniscule load of a multimeter...don't be fooled...perform a load test!

....and by the way, if it shows only 12V, it is already discharged to 25% charge (see below, and http://www.sw-em.com/elecramb.htm)!

Open Circuit Voltage / Percent Charge
12.68 / 100
12.45 / 75
12.24 / 50
12.06 / 25
11.89 / 0

(70°F) Source: Battery Service Manual, Copyright 1987 Courtesy Battery Council International

A good working alt upgrade is certainly capable of keeping the battery in a good state of charge...

I suggest you monitor the BATTERY TERMINAL voltage withan accurate Voltmeter, as a helper tries to start...if voltage stays up you have a connection problem (somewhere along the way - or at the solenoid working contacts themselves), if voltage collapses, battery is merely discharged or it is not capable of holding a charge...charge over night then try again...a hydrometer check couldn't hurt...

Good Hunting!

Thanks for all the tips, guys! Now I have somewhere to start, and I'll let you know what I find....
-Ethan
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'64 PVMoneypit

Hey guys-
After replacing the battery's negative cable (which looked horrible), I got a nice strong click on the starter solenoid, but no cranking. However, after giving the (new-ish) positive cable a good sanding/filing on both ends, it started up first time!

Thanks again for the help! I'll see if I can sort out getting a picture up in the next week or so....
--Ethan

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'64 PVMoneypit

This falls under the heading of preventive maintenance. No telling how far you might have gone, and how much money you would have spent at a garage getting this minor problem fixed.

We know you'll never be fooled by dirty terminals again, but this is a good lesson to others: Clean those terminals on a regular basis - don't just look at them and assume they're fine! Also, if you have a starting problem, begin diagnosis at the beginning of the electrical system, i.e. the battery and terminals.

Enjoy driving your car. I got mine running again just yesterday after having to let it sit two weeks while I figured out how to bypass the electronic ignition.

A few years back, I bought a 164... it came with *every* maintenance record since about 1975... always a fun read.

*twice* the car had been towed in to the shop for no-start condition... only to have the battery terminals cleaned...

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-Matt I ♥ my ♂

If you have used those cheap battery cable ends to repair the old cables, you'll also want to totally disassemble those, too. Hidden corrosion can usually be found inside the little clamps that connect to the cables.

If you clean everything up and then find the cable ends feel loose in the fittings, reverse the 'bridge' part of the clamp so it's dished in over the cable end, instead of humping up. This will give you better connection for a while.

If you have any type of cobbled together cable ends, plan on replacing the cables very soon. Having poor connections to the battery puts a lot of stress on the charging system, and can lead to expensive repairs later on.

Better to spend a few dollars now rather than a lot of dollars later on!

The most likely place for your current problem is with the cable ends and battery terminals. Corrosion can build up in hidden areas, and the result is exactly the problems you're describing.

A good cleaning with baking soda and water paste, and after the problem is solved, a good spray with battery terminal sealer will go a long ways towards keeping this from happening again.

Part of my regular 'oil and filter change' routine includes a good cleaning of those pesky terminals.

Good luck!

Steve

I'd suggest that you start by making sure that the battery terminals and both
ends of both battery cables are good and clean.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

yup.. that's where I'd be looking. Since you have no lights and your battery is fine... obviously you lost a connection along the way.

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-Matt I ♥ my ♂

remember there is 2 ground cables and one positive cable