HI,
7th month-so-far owner of 1966 122s still working out the kinks but learning each day. I ordered a heater control valve recently because mine is leaking coolant and stays on all the time whether i have the controls engaged or not. I had read i believe in one of the sw-em articles that if it leaks and stays on all the time it should be replaced. So i am wondering does the coolant have to be emptied out completely from the radiator/engine before one removes the heater hoses connected to the valve? Also there is the long metal coiling wire attached to the valve that attaches to the heater. What is this exactly?(a ground or earth wire?)and how is it actually adhered to the heater. The one i have appears to be adhered with some kind of resinous material which i pulled off slightly as i attempted to figure out what it was. Or is it an old soldering joint corroded or just corrosion period? And lastly my car came with what i believe was an installation of an aftermarket air conditioning unit. This thing was pretty well corroded and dusty all the way around, not too mention the compressor was given to me in a box. The former owner advised me that if i wanted to install the compressor i would need an overhaul on my b18. Since i am no longer under the hot tucson sun i removed the ac unit. All that is remaining is the hose that went from the ac to the radiator. I am unsure how to remove this hose. It runs via inside through the firewall to a small cylindrical container fastened vertically in front of the radiator on the right side i.e. passenger seat side(which i guess is part of the air conditioning unit)to the bottom left hand side(i.e. drivers side) side of the radiator. Do i remove the hose by untightening the large nut that appears to fasten the hose to the radiator? And if this is the way how do i close the opening if i don't want the hose there anymore?

hope this doesn't sound confusing

thanx

j.

No part of the AC system should be attached to the radiator but the AC's condensor
is immediately in front of the radiator. If you are permanently removing the AC,
you should also remove the condensor. That will allow better airflow and less
obstruction to the cooling air (which is not quite as important if you are in a
cooler climate).
If you intend to unscrew the flare fittings be advised that they will be VERY tight,
and you will have to hold both sides of what you are unscrewing to avoid tearing
something up, especially the condensor, which is soft copper or aluminum.
If you don't ever intend to reinstall, it might be quicker and easier to cut the
hose, IF you can get the fittings through the holes that they pass through.
There will be two connections to every component in the AC (in and out) and some
may be harder to see and get to.
Even if you do plan to reinstall the system or sell it to someone who will use
it, it would be much better to go with new hoses so cutting them is no great loss.
And if you DO reinstall, you should seriously consider a rotary compressor rather
than the old York (alas, poor York, I knew him. Well.....)

For the hose holes that remain after removing the AC, rubber stoppers as used in
Chem labs are pretty useful. You can stick them in with weatherstrip adhesive.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Hey George,
thanx for clarifying, the condensor is exactly what i was referring to. I have already tried to pull the hoses from the condenser but have had no such luck and im a reasonably sized guy. I guess i have been wary of breaking the hoses altogether. Im pretty sure im not going to use the ac unit again and will probably trade it to joe lazenby or something. As far as removing the hose that runs from the condenser to the radiator, if i am standing outside the car staring into the engine bay, the hose runs from the right side of the condensor to the lower right edge of the radiator. The hose is attched to some kind of large nut. Do i need to empty the coolant from the drain plug before I remove this hose? And then once i remove the hose what do i use to plug up the whole in the nut that fastened the hose to the radiator? Or is there nothng to plug and the nut just screws back down closing some kind of opening. Because it appears as if the nut is attached to a small rectangular plane of metal or pipe that runs into the radiator. Im just trying to figure out what i am looking/referring to. Sorry for the confusion.

I really appreciate the help

J

Again, NONE of the air conditioner piping runs into the radiator.
Unless you take the radiator out to better get to the AC Condensor, you don't
need to drain any coolant.
Any air conditioner hose fittings that are near the radiator go past it to
the condensor. And if you can get them out easily by cutting the hose that is
exactly what I would do. Anything you have to unscrew will probably be very
tight so if you want to preserve the parts, cut the hoses off, take the parts
out and then undo the fittings using two wrenches.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Hey George,
perhaps i should send a picture because there is clearly a hose running from the condensor to the radiator. If it doesn't go into the radiator i don't see why the hose would be there in the first place. Some kind of nut is fastening the hose to the lower bottom right side of the radiator. But if you say it isn't ill just go ahead and see what happens and report back.

thanx for your help

j.

First time I ever heard of that. Maybe you should post a picture...
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Hello,

You do not need to drain all the coolant to change the heater valve if you have the proper type of hose pinching pliers, otherwise drain the block at the block drain which is near the oil filter.

The "coiling wire" is actually a capillary tube like the type used in a water bed heater to sense the temperature of the water bed.

The end of the tube is supposed to be install inside the heater box and it is critical that when installed that the tube is positioned correctly so that neither the heater door nor the defroster door comes in contact with the tube.

Unfortunately, to properly install the capillary tube, the heater box needs to be removed and disassembled, but for now you can just CAREFULLY bend the tube out of the way without kinking the tube, until you are ready.

Be advised that unless it was included, that there is a proper foam seal to seal the heater valve to the firewall and it is still available and not expensive.

--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90501