Well, now that my long-ailing tranny has been replaced with a good one I want to keep it good. The best way I can see to do that is to remove the lines from the radiator and connect them to their own cooler.

I need suggestions on brand/type of cooler to buy, and more imporantly, on where to mount the cooler.

And should I remove the lines from the radiator at all, or just add the new cooler in-line with the pitiful thing on the radiator?

Thanks,
Sean

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VOLVO-740-88-91-AUTO-GEARBOX-OIL-COOLER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118QQcategoryZ6763QQihZ001QQitemZ110161256758QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V#ebayphotohosting

Hey Sean:

There is a Volvo oil cooler for sale on ebay. It looks to be the real deal with a generous coating of protective dust on it. Looks just like the one in my car, except you could eat off of mine. I don't think this auction includes the two hoses or the splitter valve for the connection to the radiator. Maybe you could have the hoses custom fabricated?

There is a company called Lawson Products, Inc., that fabricates hoses, but I don't know if they are wholesale only.

John
--
If it needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced on a 1990 240, I've probably done it. '90 240DL, 252K looking forward to 300K badge (or sticker??). >>You haven't really worked on a car until you draw blood<< :-}

Thanks John, I'll think about it. If I have to custom fab lines though I might just buy a new Hayden.

I have all the stuff to bend/cut/flare steel lines so I might try that.

I'm not in a big hurry, I shouldn't have much trouble with overheating the fluid now that the temp is hovering around 40deg. in the middle of the day.
--
'93 244: 'A' cam 4 deg. advanced, 25/22 sways, custom heim endlinks, poly bushings, and a lot more styling customization than I care to recount.

Cool.
--
If it needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced on a 1990 240, I've probably done it. '90 240DL, 252K looking forward to 300K badge (or sticker??). >>You haven't really worked on a car until you draw blood<< :-}

Excellent responses and a lot of good info. I think I'll install one for two reasons: 1) I now have a higher stall torque converter because of the aw71 swap and I'm told it will heat up more, and 2) I've been reving the engine more lately because of the A cam.

I don't know about the magnetic filter in-line, it's a good idea, but maybe over doing it. If I do a filter I was kind of thinking about rigging something up so I could use my good ol' Mann filters on the tranny fluid. Any suggestions there?


Thanks again,
Sean
--
'93 244: 'A' cam 4 deg. advanced, 25/22 sways, custom heim endlinks, poly bushings, and a lot more styling customization than I care to recount.

Think twice before adding the mann to filter the transmission. I'm a big fan fo the external filter on Chevy's & Fords but Not on the a Volvo. I burned the clutches on my 87 240 GL driving around 100 with that type of filter. I had the transmission built and remove that filter. My guess is that it created a restriction with the speed. I purchased my car new and it took my Daughter through high school and my son drove it a while in school. I have it back and I have put a magnet inline filter. On my SS Impala, I bypassed the cooler in the radiator & rounted the fluid driectly to a B&M 28,000 Lb racing cooler. You can now touch the dip stick without getting burned. For each 20 deg. drop in tem. you double the transmission life. Heat will kill a automatic Transmission. A stack plate cooler on the only way to go. it will cool much better than a equal size tube & fin type cooler. I'm planning to add a stack plate cooler to my 87 and bypassing the cooler in the radiator & deleting the oil cooler. I have had a tube/fin oil & transmission on my car since it was new. I runs warmer until it open. I'm not sure I have room for two cooler & a Volvo electric fan. Hope this helps.

Greg

Re transmission cooler. 3 years back, we had the transmission fail when traveling due to coolant entering the transmission from the radiator header tank. I had to have the whole thing rebuit (AW70 model) and the mechanic mounted a 740 external oilcooler to the front of the radiator next to the electric fan that operates when the aircon turns on. The inlet/outlet tubes on the header tank were cut about 1.5" out so a hose/hoseclamps were placed end to end on the outlets which could circulate any coolant caused by the corroded pipe that normally passed the transmission fluid.

Hoses and male fitting were then made up to connect the oilcooler with the pipes from the auto. So far 30,000k travelled and no problems. Car has done 260,000k and is a B230FX motor.

Hope this answers your question.

Spencer
spncrd@gmail.com

I had the same problem a few years back, the tube in the header tank corroded and yes the transmission failed. A local volvo mech placed a 740 oilcooler on the front of the radiator l/side next to the electric fan used for the air/com. I then placed a piece of fuel line hose over both outlets on the header tank where the original oilcooling pipes went using hose clamps. where the ends of the oilcooling pipes end by the radiator, it was just a matter of getting some fittings to screw onto these ends with suitable hose to connect to the oil cooler. I have done 30,000k since and have had no problems.

while you were there, might as well throw on a magnetic filter ala magnefine.

Check out a Ford Econoline Van for its tran cooler (12"x 12") i've got 3 of them and they work WONDERS for the smaller trannys.
--
1992 - 244 - AW70 'Soft Ride' / 1987 - 244 - M47 (Hydra, turbo bars, bilstein, urethane bushings - now deceased)

oh yeah - forgot this>>>> can be had at ANY junkyard for less than $10

you febricate the plumbing.

doesn't matter where you put it as long as it's not next to the exhaust manifold or behind the block - the tranny will produce sufficient heat regardless - we're just trying to remove the excessive heat. Learned that from a tranny Tech that converted my Tahoe to a Corvette tranny chewer.
--
1992 - 244 - AW70 'Soft Ride' / 1987 - 244 - M47 (Hydra, turbo bars, bilstein, urethane bushings - now deceased)

Hi Sean:

Here is a copy of a posting that I submitted in September 2006. I have installed a transmission cooler on both of my last cars. I have yet to have my transmission serviced by a shop or replaced, just regular transmission fluid changes every 20k. My genuine Volvo transmission cooler is mounted on the metal bar located between the a/c condenser and the radiator, that's what it is designed for. If you were to get one of the Hayden models sold at Pep Boys, I would mount it in front of the a/c condenser. And I would also let the fluid cool through the radiator first and then through the aftermarket cooler.

http://www.haydenauto.com/products/transmission-and-engine-oil-coolers.htm

John

Here's my 2 cents.

On my 1990 240 the first time I changed the transmission fluid I almost popped a blood vessel in my head trying to undo the dipstick tube that connects to the transmission pan. The car was still "New" with about 30K on the clock. I finally got it loose! (Man, the Swedes love to spray the undercoating EVERYWHERE!) My experience has been like others, mainly, that I have never really found much junk in the pan, but the magnet was always a little dirty and a little bit of black on the bottom of the pan. Working on my cars is my therapy. I get to relax outside, listen to the sounds of nature and forget about everything else for awhile. The drain plug alone only allows for 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 quarts to escape, Pulling the pan, however, allows for another 1-1 1/2 quarts to come out when the filter screen breaks loose. I've also done a flush and I recommend that from time to time, However, that said, by changing the fluid every 20,000 miles by dropping the pan, my fluid always looks nice, bright red. I'm about to hit 250K and I am a big beliver in preventive maintenance. I don't want to break down in West Texas where there is only one tow truck in a county that measures 30X30 miles, and the cattle out number people 100+ to 1. (Don't ask me how I know....)

Long story short... Too late. At 60K I added a genuine Volvo transmission cooler. Bought it mail order and saved 35%. My brother, a PE, took his measuring equipement and we measured the temperature of the transmission fluid coming out of the transmission, then out of the radiator, and then out of the cooler. As I remember, it came out of the radiator 25 degrees cooler and 30 degrees cooler out of the transmission cooler. Now, of course, this was when the car was hot, but not moving. We would have to hook this temp gauge up when the car was moving to get a better measurement, but I was happy with the numbers. Overall, I believe that: 1.) changing the fluid at regular intervals will go a long way, and 2.) if you live where it gets REALLY hot, a transmission cooler is like money in the bank.
--
If it needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced on a 1990 240, I've probably done it. '90 240DL, 245K looking forward to 300K badge. >>You haven't really worked on a car until you draw blood<< :-}


--
If it needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced on a 1990 240, I've probably done it. '90 240DL, 252K looking forward to 300K badge (or sticker??). >>You haven't really worked on a car until you draw blood<< :-}

"...My genuine Volvo transmission cooler is mounted on the metal bar located between the a/c condenser and the radiator, that's what it is designed for...."

No where in the instructions does it call for its installation in-between the A/C condenser and radiator ("...that's what it is designed for..."). The instructions (I've done it on three of my cars) always cited mounting it in front of the condenser. Nevertheless, like you, I consider it a good preventive step to install one on all my trannies.

In any case, I'd love to see a picture of how you fitted that Volvo cooler in between. It's about 1-1/2 inches thick!

Instead, here's how I mounted mine:

I went digging through my records and found my receipt and installation instructions.

I bought mine from Brentwood Volvo mail order on 9/14/1994. Part number 1333839 description "Oil Cooler" list price $276.20, Net $220.96, and in the shaded part of the invoice it looks like the price was $175.01, and zero for shipping. I think the shaded area is what the dealerships cost was for the part.

I think it was around 1999 when I tried to buy another cooler and the dealership said that they were no longer available. Currently, that part number does not pull up anything on several websites.

As far as installation, Volvo included instructions for the 240 and 740/940. I can't find the one for the 240, but on the 740/940, It clearly states "Press the radiator backwards. Put the hoses through the hole(s) in the side plate. Fit the bracket on the lower joist, put on the screws and tighten." I can't imagine why I would have put mine there on my 240 unless the instructions said to do so.

There is a lot more room between the radiator and a/c condenser than you might be aware of.
--
If it needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced on a 1990 240, I've probably done it. '90 240DL, 252K looking forward to 300K badge (or sticker??). >>You haven't really worked on a car until you draw blood<< :-}

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Maybe that's an oil cooler, rather than the ATF cooler? re: "...Part number 1333839 description "Oil Cooler" list price $276.20, Net $220.96, ..." Does it look the same as what I show in my photograph?

For mine ATF cooler, I have p/n 1333582-3. And there's only have 3/4 inch between the condenser and radiator, and I know because I've run wiring across the space for high-power headlights (Euros). However, admittedly, I have the 3-row Nissen's radiator installed in all my cars, so a standard 2-row radiator might be thinner and account for the difference we each see, too.

And my accessory catalog for the 200's also says that the engine oil cooler kit is 552909-4; I couldn't find anything with your part no..

Current info from TASCA Volvo (internet prices 15% above cost) shows that both of you are talking about the same part, listed as an "Oil Cooler" — maybe referring to transmission "oil"?

Part number 1333582-3 (Ken) was superceded by part number 1333839-7 (John).

Current price:
13338397 $549.74 [msrp] $442.54 [internet price]
OIL COOLER
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

I don't know how much space is there when you are running an aftermarket radiator, but my radiator is the original equipment from the factory and there is plenty of space there with the cooler installed, I would say at least 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch on each side. Yes, mine looks just like yours, and it came with the adaptor to connect from the radiator. I have mine connected to the radiator directly, so that the fluid comes from the transmission, into the radiator, out of the radiator, into the cooler and then out of the cooler and then back to the transmission. I also looked into an engine oil cooler and it had an adapter that fitted onto the oil filter connection, so I KNOW that I didn't get the wrong one. I also didn't see much benefit to an oil cooler, especially since I think it was about $100 more than the ATF cooler. Maybe if my car had a turbo, it would have helped...

Now you do bring up a good point, as when my factory radiator eventually craps out, I WILL replace with a three row, but somehow my car seems to be one of the few Volvo 240's that hasn't had radiator problems. 17 years and still going strong. I flush my system every 2 years and on top of that I take it out (becasue it is so incredibly easy) and power wash the a/c condenser, ATF cooler & radiator so that the air will flow through well.
--
If it needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced on a 1990 240, I've probably done it. '90 240DL, 252K looking forward to 300K badge (or sticker??). >>You haven't really worked on a car until you draw blood<< :-}

Hi, again.

re: "...my radiator is the original equipment from the factory and there is plenty of space there with the cooler installed, I would say at least 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch on each side...."

It must be the 3-row radiator that made the space narrower.

re: "...Yes, mine looks just like yours, and it came with the adaptor to connect from the radiator. I have mine connected to the radiator directly, so that the fluid comes from the transmission, into the radiator, out of the radiator, into the cooler and then out of the cooler and then back to the transmission...."

Yes, that's exactly how mine are hooked up in my cars!

re: "...I WILL replace with a three row, but somehow my car seems to be one of the few Volvo 240's that hasn't had radiator problems. 17 years and still going strong. I flush my system every 2 years and on top of that I take it out (becasue it is so incredibly easy) and power wash the a/c condenser, ATF cooler & radiator so that the air will flow through well...."

I haven't kept the OEM radiators in my cars long enough to see their lifespan. I routinely put in a Nissens 3-row as a matter of precaution as soon as I get the car (we have some pretty hot weather, and traffic jams, here in summer). I also use synthetic oil and ATF as well, for the same reasons.
I also maintain them strictly with only distilled water and glysantin-based antifreeze -- I personally prefer M-B's "yellow" to Volvo's "blue", though, as M-B specifies more corrosion inhibitor (they're almost the same price, anyway).
And yes, I agree that pulling the radiator is one of the easiest jobs to do -- and 90% of the brief time it does take is just being careful with the ATF lines' fittings as you do so (I put a little antiseize on the threads, to be extra safe). And I change the thermostat, too.

And speaking of the Nissen's 3-row radiator, because they have the temperature sensor builit-in, do you happen to have a '91-93 model car? If you do, you might want to consider an improvement I published in Rolling last July ("Improving the Auxiliary Radiator Fan", July/August 2007 issue, pg 25.). Your auxiliary fan isn't controlled by coolant temperature (only A/C pressure), but you can add the temperature function with a Volvo part that costs just $7, and takes just a few minutes to install. Do you get Rolling? If you don't, let me know and I'll send you a .pdf of the article.

Regards, and happy holidays.

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You powerwash the condenser? OK John, that's it, I have to see pics of this immaculately cared-for 240. If you e-mail me pics I will upload them to the free webspace I use and give you the links. And if you need it I'll give you a short tutorial on html code too so you can post at will.

Cool. I would appreciate your help!

Yeah, I tried to scan some photos with my scanner and then import them to the brickboard, but it didn't work.

BTW, I just bought a 12 ton hydraulic press so I could finally install my poly bushings. Tomorrow I finish cleaning out the garage and bring my brick in from the wet and cold to finish up my suspension work.

John.

P.S. I'm going to the "Auto Recycler" in the next few weeks. If I find a Volvo oil cooler, I'll pull it for you. The most I've ever paid there is $25 for a mint condition Drivers seat, and usually the guy lets me out for $10 to $15, HOWEVER, I have NEVER seen any Virgos there. You just don't really see them here in D/FW anymore.
--
If it needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced on a 1990 240, I've probably done it. '90 240DL, 252K looking forward to 300K badge (or sticker??). >>You haven't really worked on a car until you draw blood<< :-}

Hey, I live in the DFW (Mesquite) area and I've been VERY curious where you are finding 240's around here. Al's PuP is restocking their inventory and I'm kinda in a drought on parts...

I'm familiar with almost any location since i've been surveying for nearly 13 years in DFW. i absolutely love it when i get to work near Hwy310 or Jefferson in GP...

Tim
--
1992 - 244 - AW70 'Soft Ride' / 1987 - 244 - M47 (Hydra, turbo bars, bilstein, urethane bushings - now deceased)

I appreciate your thoughts, Ken. Does Volvo still sell the kit, and how much did you pay for them?

Sean
--
'93 244: 'A' cam 4 deg. advanced, 25/22 sways, custom heim endlinks, poly bushings, and a lot more styling customization than I care to recount.

Hi.
The last time I bought one was only about three years ago (for my latest, a '93), so there must still be a few around. My dealer got it in about a day, from the regional warehouse in Rockleigh, so they must still be around in most of the regional distribution centers around the country.
As for the price, it was expensive, about $400 or more (can't remember, exactly), but I feel that it's a lot better than those generic coolers with hoses that are just "clamped". This kit has reliable screw-on connectors, with their threads for the bypass matching the radiator connections, as well as threaded connectors to the cooler itself (which you can see in my picture); grommets to go through the forward firewall, etc. It's typical "Volvo" (the "old" Volvo) through and through.

Sean:

Aftermarket coolers are fine, usually run around $60. It should be mounted in front of the radiator and condenser. On the Eclipse I added one for the oil and one for the trans, no problems. I prefer using custom made brackets to mount them rather than zip tying them to the rad.

Now for bypassing the in radiator cooler or adding the new cooler in series with the old. Believe it or not, but the in-radiator cooler wasn't a cost cutting design, automatic transmissions are designed to operate most efficiently in a particular temperature range. Too cold, and the pump has to work harder and seals may be compromised over time due to higher pressures.

If you look at the transmission warranty on many US made vehicles, they state that if an external trans cooler is added, it must be installed infront of and inline with the transmission fluid flow (hot) coming from the transmission. This ensures that the in-radiator cooler has a chance to warm the fluid back up a bit before it returns to the transmission.

That being said, I bypassed the in-radiator cooler on our 93 cherokee and used an external cooler. The trans was almost shot when I did this, but it didn't degrade any further for another 50K miles... until I sold it.

Hopefully a true auto trans expert can speak to the importance / lack thereof of the in-radiator cooler....

jorrell
--
92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

re: "...If you look at the transmission warranty on many US made vehicles, they state that if an external trans cooler is added, it must be installed infront of and inline with the transmission fluid flow (hot) coming from the transmission...."

Interesting, but do those instructions explicitly give the reason you offered: "...This ensures that the in-radiator cooler has a chance to warm the fluid back up a bit before it returns to the transmission....", or did you just rationalize that? (No offense meant, as "rationalize" isn't a dirty word -- it's tempting to assert your conclusion, rather than a comment from the GM or Ford engineers when one isn't available) It's not common for such explanations to be offered in installation instructions -- the tech's job is not to question the instructions, but just to follow them.

I only ask because the specific instructions for installing a cooler on our Volvos is in contrast to those that you cited (for U.S. cars). I have installed Volvo's own auxiliary cooler on my cars (see my picture, below) and their installation instructions specifically call for the insertion of the diverter block (to the cooler) on the *top* fitting of the radiator, i.e., the return line -- this means that the cooler is inserted to further cool the fluid with the auxiliary cooler after it leaves the radiator.

So perhaps (my admitted rationalization) a counter reason is possible -- that the GM or Ford or Chrysler engineers direct the installation of the cooler before the radiator to avoid producing an additional heat load inside the radiator (which might be marginal) -- putting it before the radiator in the air stream will help dissipate some BTUs in the air and (even though that air flows through the radiator) dilutes the heat in the greater volume of air, than concentrating it in the radiator's fluid; and only after cooling the fluid somewhat is it adviseable to let it flow through the radiator.

I'm not an engineer, but i'ts just an alternative explanation. It's probably not as simple as a generalization that's applicable to all makes and models -- I'm confident that a lot depends on the heat capacity of the fluid radiator's capabilities.

Best regards, and happy holidays.

My picture, of part of Volvo's auxiliary ATF cooler (seen on the far left):

Hello John
while i surely believe what you said on this subject and how it is stated in a new vehicle warranty i have to wonder something.
How could one benifit by cooling the fluid before it goes into the radiator just so it could be warmed up again? (if the small portion of tubing in the rad can actually do this)
Also why would one want to add a tranny cooler if the factory setup is designed to keep the tranny fluid at a certain temp? (around 190 degrees)
To me this seems to condradict whats being talked about here in this thread.
I do not claim to know much on the subject and am not giving advice or debating anything anyone said, but i dont really (get it)
i have read where overheating will hurt the tranny so i can only assume for 90 percent of daily drivers the factory setup would be fine, exept for some folks that like to keep the boost up and burn extra gas (ME). or pulling some trailer or living on a mountain top.
If this is true one might just be better off running synthetic fluid as it is better at higher temps and not adding the remote cooler?
last but not least i seen older 740 turbos with the factory tranny cooler and also run through the radiator, but i didnt think to look at the routing of the lines, i will take your word and look more closely at the next one i see.
later
mike

I did the cut 'n paste from Hayden's website:

Transmission Oil Coolers
Q. The trans cooler in the radiator is leaking and is expensive to repair. Can I use a Hayden transmission cooler to eliminate it?
A. Yes. Always choose one of the larger Hayden coolers when eliminating the radiator cooler to compensate for the loss of cooling from the radiator. In most installations we recommend use of the radiator tank cooler to provide maximum cooling and to comply with most manufacturers warranties.

Q. Should the cooler be installed before or after the radiator?
A. Hayden recommends installing the auxiliary cooler after the radiator to return the coolest fluid directly to the transmission. Installing the cooler before the radiator will still provide additional cooling and may be necessary in some difficult access applications.

Q. Can you over cool the transmission fluid?
A. Transmissions are not highly sensitive to cool operating temperatures. However, in sub-zero (20-30° F) weather conditions transmission fluid can actually gel up in an external cooler and cease to flow, causing damage. Use of the radiator cooler actually helps warm the fluid under these conditions. It is critical in extreme cold conditions to use the original equipment cooler in series with the auxiliary cooler and allow the vehicle to warm up before driving.

Q. What is the difference between an Ultra-Cool® and Rapid Cool® trans coolers?
A. Ultra Cool® is a tube and fin, (serpentine), design that is a time proven cost effective design. The round tube design is the strongest and most reliable cooler design but only gets cooling air on the forward facing side. The Rapid Cool® design is a plate and fin design similar to most radiator designs. The flat plates allow more contact with the cooling air. This provides a design that is about 1/3 more efficient size for size than comparable Ultra Cool® models.

I put mine on because I live in Texas, and the summer heat is really hard on transmissions. I have only experienced sub zero when I was in Clear Lake, Iowa in February 2001. I experienced the same bitter cold like when Buddy Holly's plane went down that night and I have no urge to experience that kind of cold again!
--
If it needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced on a 1990 240, I've probably done it. '90 240DL, 252K looking forward to 300K badge (or sticker??). >>You haven't really worked on a car until you draw blood<< :-}

Mike:

Like I ended my message with: "Hopefully a true auto trans expert can speak to the importance / lack thereof of the in-radiator cooler...." I am not a trans expert, I was simply reporting my observations from my own limited experiences, ie. no formal training in transmission theory/operation.

With that out of the way, as in automotive electronics, there is such a thing as too hot and too cold for proper operation. Perhaps thats why the manufacturer wants a little extra heat in the transmission, just like some electronics assemblies do with small electrical heaters to extend their operating temperature range to accommodate the -40C operating specifications.

jorrell

ps. Trans expert please... this branch is really starting to snap and pop!
--
92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

I agree with the need to run the aux cooler in series with the existing cooling circuit in the radiator. In general, cooler is better for hydraulic oil, but viscosity and other properties are highly temperature-dependent, and the engine cooling system (rad and thermostat) is a controlled system, whereas an external cooler by itself is not. As long as the radiator is in reasonably good shape there should be little risk of contaminating the tranny with engine coolant.

--
Thank goodness we don't get all the government we pay for. -- Will Rogers

I would separate from the radiator. 2 reasons.
1. why run lines through 190 degree antifreeze when you don't have to?

2. If the Trani cooling tubes within the radiator crack, it will force trani fluid into the radiator and suck antifreeze through your trani.

Trani coolers, the bigger , the better. tranis like to run cool.
Run it in front of the radiator. vertical or horizontal, doesn't matter.

I have a trani cooler in the jeep for 12 years now. It is 7" x 15" and I made a bracket to mount it totally independent from the Radiator.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm