This is an '86 245 that I've owned since new. My front rotors and pads were changed over 12 years ago. The rear pads almost 17 years ago. All original calipers, Girling up front and ATE in back, and original brake lines/hoses.

However, the master cylinder and octopus are fairly new and I've had the DOT4 replaced every two years.

All pads have a lot of wear left on them and the rotors appears to be in good shape. No complaints with braking performance.

I only drive it about 1,000 mi a year.

My concern is the calipers, the pistons and seals, the lubrication. I think they're all original.

This concern arises because I recently replaced my 14" steelies with 15" alloy wheels. Now I can see the calipers. Before they were out of sight and out of mind. I notice they are very dusty with missing or cracked bleeder caps. (No apparent fluid leaks.) Should I overhaul the calipers? Or just clean them up and replace the caps. Thanks.

The problem is brake fluid attracts water from the air. The water in the fluid causes rusting internally (and also fading brakes from lowered boiling point). The result is the system gets gunked up internally, master cylinder seals wear/tear, pistons seize.

Since you've been changing the fluid every 2 years, there shouldn't be any need for a rebuild as the system is probably clean inside.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

Mr. Goose, you should only attempt overhaul if there is a fault (leak). You might also decide that the calipers deserve a nice powder coated brake job. In any event the decision is up to you. The rebuild kits should come with new dust caps

I recently discovered that the "Mitsubishi Lancer OZ Rally Edition" has drum brakes in the rear, Volvo installed disc brakes as standard equipment in the 1970's!

When I look at what some American children have succumbed to, a life of ignorance and status symbols, The preference of coolness for a cheap car that is marked up just because it has words on the back. I admit it, at 18 years old I had no conception of what a real car was. My classmates thought how cool it would be to have expensive cars. It would be "cool" to own a Lamborghini, or a Ford GT, but now when I see adults who cannot even check their oil or change a tire, I remember those children who wanted to have cool and expensive cars, and maybe that is what the car corporations think would be "cool", A society under their complete control, a nation where only the company can repair automobiles, and a nation in which nobody wants to.

Kyle:

Good observation on the OZ version of the Mitsu. If you want to get a "pleasant" shock, check out the EVO 8 MR, Full race Brembo setup, FMIC, alloy roof, carbon hood... and a sparse interior. I loved test driving that monster, but I just couldn't bring myself to buy something that ugly for that much money!

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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

If it isn't broken, don't fix it. No leaks, brakes work fine, no problem. The dust caps on the bleeders are usually missing and don't seem to cause a problem when absent.

Let me know when you plan on selling the car!

jorrell
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

I just bought new caps from FCP Groton for mine. Very cheap and make me feel good that they are keeping the dirt out of the bleeders so when I go to bleed them they are clean. I would leave the brakes alone, the main purpose of having the fluid flushed is so you don't have to worry about rust problems internally (along with a, low as possible boiling point). You can clean them up externally and spray them with high temp paint if you want to make them pretty. Use "rebuilder's grey" or black. Metallic silver or any colors will just make them look stupid IMHO.
Charles