Ive tried to reposition the torsion bars,No luck. My 66 and 69 have this problem.I hold the lid up with a stick. Not very cool.?Thanks for any advice.

I think there's more than one position for setting the trunk lid torsion bar and Volvo had a special long bar to remove and fit it. Tool #2572. Someone, maybe an older dealer might have one. I think it's a couple of feet long. Problem can arise when a bit of bondo in the back bottom edge adds too much weight. 144 saloons use a small gas cylinder that you might be able to fit. It's small enough to look "stock" if fitted neatly.
Yes it's painful when the lid closes on you back when your moving things around in there. Mine comes with the added bondo at the moment.............

Thanks for the advice on the 140 cylinder. If I can figure a neat way to install two of them may be needed. OH Well until than my stick will have to do.

I've got good used spring rods around if you want to replace the ones you have... I'm thinking $30 a set plus shipping. Drop me a note off list if you are interested....

Chris
agent_strangelove@hotmail.com

yatoo;

OK you "tried" to reposition the spring...but you didn't mention if you were successful (this can be tricky!)...bottom line: if the springs are in their position of maximun preload, then there's not much else they will do for you.

A strategically placed nitrogen cylinder would certainly do it (I've seen this done on a 544, but not yet on a 122)...but I'd say a wooden support is still cooler than one of those...

Cheers

I've still got the (presumably) factory original bamboo ski pole that was in my 1800s when I bought it 12 years ago or so :-)

hasn't failed to hold that trunk lid up yet



--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂

Matt-

I've got good used 1800 trunk springs as well.... Those are the complete hinge/spring assembly, not the loose spring rods like the 120/130.

Chris
agent_strangelove@hotmail.com

I'm not confident about how these work, but it seems that if they are being twisted, and the twist has gone out of them, couldn't they be removed and "retwisted" to put the twist back in? Maybe I've got this all wrong.

metallurgically speaking, spring steel is pretty difficult stuff to work with. It is designed to be very elastic. To inelastically-deform it requires considerable force, as well as considerable care to not over-do it.

I think the springs could be "fixed" in this way if you had a proper jig, but I'm not sure it can be done ala bench-vise, vise-grips and pipe.

Of course, as my car suffers the same ailment, I'd be delighted if someone proved me wrong.

v.