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Safe and Sane Steering Solutions 200 1977

Does anyone know the size of the steering wheel nut for 240's 1980 on? I want to go to the junkyard and have the appropriate deep wall socket.

I intend to change the column and steering rack for my 1977 240. My column is VERY loose and it's because of that rubber disc that they used to reduce vibration. I also have not had power steering for a few years, now the rubber has completely deteriorated and although there is no risk of total failure because of the metal backings, it makes for a interesting drive on the highway (back and forth, back and forth).

I know that I just can't replace the column with the new two u-joint style because the overall length is longer. I expect though that if I change the rack AND column that there should be no problem other then minor electric splicing for the turn signals and ignition switch. Is this a correct assumption, or am I doomed for failure.

Which racks are best? Which power steering pumps are best? Which model years have you had problems with?

Any response or comments (negative or positive) are appreciated.

Thanks,
Goatman








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    Operations Complete 200 1977

    I finished the 5+ day marathon of work to my 1977 264 GL today. It was a truly worthwhile experience. I recommend that anyone who wishes to improve the condition of their steering assembly to consider the utilization of the following information.

    The factory column from the early models does not need to be replaced. The column may be replaced and will fit without trouble. A side effect of a new column in an old car is that the ignition lock will protrude about an inch. There are no other contraindications.

    Be aware that the use of a junkyard column will require a trip to the dealer for a key by VIN, or the services of a locksmith to unlock the column. The lock cannot be removed without the key, even with the unit removed from the car. Make sure to have the column free before you attempt installation. I did not and had a fun time almost ruining the parts due to gross ignorance.

    The lower, intermediate, and upper steering shafts are keyed to each other as well as the to the rack and column. The upper joint can be fully fitted to the column input incorrectly. When this happens, and if locking bolt installation is attempted the column shaft may be damaged and require removal or replacement. Make sure that the locking bolt can be fully inserted through the coupling before attempting to tighten the bolt. Use a light if in doubt.

    Always check the condition of the steering shaft before installation. Any palpable looseness is unacceptable and is indicative of an impending failure.'

    Synopsis:

    Obtained a steering column from a 1983 Volvo 240
    Obtained a steering rack from a 1993 Volvo 240
    Obtained a steering pump from a 1984 Volvo 240
    Used a steering rack banjo bolt from my 1977 Volvo 264GL

    The brackets and pump are the same for a 1984 B23 without air conditioning as a 1976 B21 without air conditioning. Make sure that if you do not have an air conditioning bracket assembly that you do obtain the unique fittings for installation. The brackets that are bolted to the Saginaw are not the same for cars with and without air conditioning compressors, nether are the engine mounted brackets.

    Try to obtain a steering shaft that is from the latest model that you can find. The late model steering rack CAM does very nicely. All pumps will attach to all racks with the proper hoses. I prefer the Saginaw pump, and if I knew that Autozone sold the rebuild kit for 12 dollars, I would have rebuilt it.

    Utilize the utmost cleanliness during installation, storage and removal. Plug every orifice with cotton balls, and the cleaning of hoses and fittings with solvent is recommended in a well ventilated area.

    Replace the return hose with a factory hose, or rated hose only. Autozone tried to sell me fuel line twice, even after I asked for steering return line.

    The early return banjo bolt has a barb that makes the replacement easy. Hose size is 3/8" and you will need less then two feet.

    ALWAYS LIFT THE WHEELS AND PRIME THE PUMP BY TURNING THE WHEELS BACK AND FORTH with the engine off. There will be no pump cavitation. I used 1 quart of Mobil 1 ATF.

    No electric splicing needed, all connectors plugged right in.

    Please post any questions,
    Goatman








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      Update!!! Steering Squeal 200 1977

      The last two nights have led to a steering squeal when the wheels were turned to the stops. Once I tightened the belt the squealing went away though.

      Thanks!!!








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        Update!!! Steering Leak and Squeak 200 1977

        Not even a peep from the pump lately.

        I think that the belt was tight at first and then stretched out. It was a new belt.

        Another note is that there was a drip from the pump. After replacing the cap the pump is now dry.

        Hope this helps!!!
        Goatman








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      Operations Complete 200 1977

      Excellent write up, Goatman!
      This is what I wish everyone would do when they solve a typical Volvo 240 problem, or discover an interchange that makes all of our lives easier. You don't find this kind of info even in a Bentley manual.
      Thanks!
      JohnP








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    Phase One Completed 200 1977

    I am really surprised that no one else has attempted the replacement of an older style steering rack with the newer type with the larger pinion. The lack of information made it difficult to make correct and proper choices and decisions. I hope that this thread helps someone in the future with this same problem, excessive steering play.

    I realize that my choice to remove the power steering belt may have played a role in the failure of the rubber support disc between the steering shaft and the column. However, the situation could not be avoided due to monetary issues and my mechanical ability at the time to remedy the steering fluid spray. I obtained the rack, pump, and column at my local pick and pull. It was not expensive.

    Today, my operations included traveling to the local junkyard to remove the rack from a 1993 240. It had not been wrecked and the steering gear appeared tight. I could detect no movement in the rack whilst groping the rods. Also, all boots were intact.

    The rack is a CAM rack, Identified by the high pressure tubes attached with flare fittings and not banjo bolts. I hope that the condition is good, without any balance problems. The pump I obtained is a Saginaw pump noted for its shape like a teardrop. The column I obtained was from a 1983 240 GL, and it has identical wiring to the 1977 264 which I own. There is a difference though in the length of the steering lock, and it protrudes from the dashboard almost an inch. However, there were no problems in mounting the newer style column to my older style car.

    After I installed the column, it appeared that there was no difference in the connection to the steering shaft, length or otherwise, and the old column should have suited my purposes fine. Now, I need a key for the junkyard column. I wasted my time, in other words. Maybe not though, if the steering lock ever fails. I know now that to remove the column at the junkyard takes about 30 minutes, and to install it into the car takes over an hour. I have no problem doing this in my garage, but in a parking lot it would be terrible without a fat blunt of marijuana, and even then, it might still be brutal. It is not really that difficult, it just takes time and tools, and it's the time that wears you down. I can only imagine attempting to defeat the lock as a thief. Once you take the column out, you still need the key to remove the lock. It would be way quicker to cut a key, as I imagine that brute force would yield no result.

    The rack to column interface is the critical part to the conversion, that is the key to an upgrade. Once you have a rack and shaft, that should be all that you need, The hose banjo bolts are the same for every pump 77-93 model year. The pump however needs to mount to your block correctly. This is why I chose a Saginaw pump from a 1983, as my engine is a 1983 B23. I found that there are two types of bracket for the pumps. One bracket style is for air conditioning, and the other is for power steering alone. I do not have a compressor yet and my system needs major work, so I obtained the bracket for a setup without air conditioning.













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    Safe and Sane Steering Solutions 200 1977

    I have a new TRW power steering rack for the early (small pinion) 240's. It includes the Volvo installation kit. Will sell for $125 plus shipping as I no longer have the 77 242 I bought it for. A few shop scuffs, but thats it.








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      Safe and Sane Steering Solutions 200 1977

      I'm glad I checked the forum before I left.

      I've got both deep sizes already but I wasn't planning on taking the 27mm

      Sorry Mr.State, my problem is with the column rack interface, there is a rubber joint that is shot and needs replaced, I'd rather have the newer column with the twin u-joints. They changed it for a reason.

      That is a very good price though and I'm sure others will be interested.

      Thanks Again,
      Goatman







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