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Hello All!
When I place the notches on my crank pully in line with the 0' mark on the lower timing belt cover, the white paint on the cam and intermediate sprockets
are not in line with their respective rear cover marks. What gives?
1993 240 wagon 200+k
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"When I place the notches on my crank pully in line with the 0' mark on the lower timing belt cover, the white paint on the cam and intermediate sprockets are not in line with their respective rear cover marks. What gives?"
Assuming your "brand spanking new" Harmonic Balancer is good (hopefully not MTC), and the crank is actually at "true 0°" (as in photo below), then the belt is not installed correctly.
" I will disassemble and recheck the 3 keyed sprockets for alignment."
Have you done that?
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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I verified that all 3 keyed sprockets (crank/int/cam) are in sync. The intermediate sprocket was less than a 1/2 tooth off. My crank is lined up just as in the picture from Lucid's post. The crank pulley is an MTC which I got from Groton.
Is it a problem if I manually rotate the crankshaft two or three revolutions without the timing belt on? As long as I line up the keyed slot, right?
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Shouldn't be a problem.
Maybe you should buy a new dist. cap and rotor to make sure that's not a problem? How old are your wires?
--
'93 244: 'A' cam 4 deg. advanced, 25/22 sways, custom heim endlinks, poly bushings, and a lot more styling customization than I care to recount.
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"When I place the notches on my crank pully in line with the 0' mark on the lower timing belt cover,..."
It's not uncommon for the outer part of the crank pulley (with the 0° notch) to slip on the thin rubber section that bonds it to the (keyed) inner pulley section — as Dan suggested yesterday.
You may have to remove the pulley again and verify that all 3 keyed sprockets (crank/int/cam) are in sync — or not. If they are aligned OK, then the bonded outer pulley half is coming loose, and can no longer be used as a reference. The pulley (harmonic balancer) should be replaced too, before it comes apart.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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My harmonic balancer is brand spanking new. I will disassemble and recheck the 3 keyed sprockets for alignment.
Of interest, I checked each plug wire for spark today. Plugs 1 and 4 produced a fairly decent white spark. Plugs 2 and 3 didn't give me any spark. I tried different known working wires, but still no spark.
Any reasons for this? Would that problem keep the car from starting?
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I have two new caps and rotors which I swap when testing. I don't understand why
1 and 4 will spark, but not 2 and 3.
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As I understand the CPS operation, the ICU counts 14 holes after the sensor detects the void in the flywheel ring, and fires when #1 is lined up, then counts 28 holes and fires again, presumably in time for #3. When the void passes again, it counts 14 holes, fires when #4 is aligned, then 28 holes later, fires again, presumably in time for #2.
But what happens if the sensor picks up a stray void (can't see the holes, which the ICU interprets as a void) from a damaged or mis-aligned flywheel ring? My guess is that it starts counting to 14 again, and fires at a time when the distributor rotor is not lined up with anything. Consequently, it will fire #1 and #4 consistently on the detection of the real void, but fire out of time for #3 and #2 on a false void.
The fact that you're getting fire on #1 and #4 suggests that the CPS is correctly reading the machined void, and correctly counting the 14 holes to the next firing sequence. Which suggests that the CPS is doing its job.
You might be able to detect out of sequence firings by putting a timing light on the center coil wire, and looking for random, out of time blinks.
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Plug wires and plugs are all that is different between the cylinders. Dan
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That doesn't seem right. The spark is getting to the distributor. From there it is getting to 1 and 4. But isn't being sent out to 2 and 3? Wobbly distributor shaft?
But there is a computer upstream that decides when to send spark, isn't there? And it relies on the crank position sensor. You've mentioned that the crank does not line up when the cam and intermediates do. Perhaps you need to reposition the crank? (Maybe it moved off mark during belt installation?) Who knows what the computer is up to but it may demand that the crank line up before it even sends out a spark to 2 and 3.
(Sorry about the guesswork, no computers in my car.)
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.
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Bad cap and rotor has kept more than one Volvo from running. Dan
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I haven't read all of your posts so I don't know if this has been suggested, but have you considered taking the timing belt off, turning all the pulleys manually to their TDC timing marks and re-installing the belt? It's very easy to slip a belt by a few teeth when your tensioner is worn out.
--
'93 244: 'A' cam 4 deg. advanced, 25/22 sways, custom heim endlinks, poly bushings, and a lot more styling customization than I care to recount.
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Do it this way.
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/B230FTimingBeltAlignment.htm
Or the harmonic balancer has slipped or the timing belt is not properly installed. Does it run?
Dan
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No, it doesn't start.
I just got finished replacing the timing belt, hoping that would fix my no-start problem, and also because it needed to be done.
I checked the three alignment marks 4 times before reassembly.
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It would not start before the TB replacement? Make sure the TB is correct now, do you have spark? Dan
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No, it would not start before TB replacement.
I will go back to see if all three marks are aligned, urgh!
I have fuel and I have spark.
Sprayed starting fluid into the intake, but no start.
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It's overdue, if original (Yellow band on wire sheath), and could possibly account for the missing spark on #2 and #3.
I'm also wondering how you "counterheld" the crankshaft when removing the crank pulley.
If you tried "jamming the flywheel", you may have damaged the light metal ring on the back of the flywheel with the holes for the CPS to "read", as in THIS CASE .
NOTE: That the linked case was on a REX ignition 940 which uses a similar "tone/trigger ring" and the same CPS as the 240 -- and that it mentions firing only on two cylinders .
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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If it didn't start before TB replacement then check out the crank position sensor. Supposedly they can give problems.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.
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