Hello guys,

After noticing a little slapping and ticking under the T-belt cover recently I had a chance today to pull the cover open and check it out. I was very surprised to see a very narrow belt riding off the front of the camshaft and idler pulleys. The belt looks to be in good shape other than it being less than half the width of the camshaft pulley.

Between the narrow belt (normal?) and it running 1/8" off the front of the pulleys (it's cutting into a lip on the rear cover section) What am I looking at to replace it?

There isn't any oil residue in the cover so at 117,000 miles I'm not going to mess with seals, just the belt and tensioner.

Is there a DIY guide anywhere? I have a Haynes for my old '88 740. Is it similar?

Thanks,

Erwin, in Roanoke.

"a very narrow belt" Make sure you have two conical washers on the opposite sides of the crank gear and they are mounted is such a way to align or guide the belt on the crank gear. These are sometimes missing as in my case or put in backwards and will shave the belt over a period of time. Or as you mentioned the belt is walking due to the tensioner.

"and it running 1/8" off the front of the pulleys" see above.

For the belt, change, read the FAQ plus do a "search", above, for timing belts replacements to see the questions others have had. For the crank bolt removal do a search for the "rope trick". 200, 700, and 940 with B230 engines all use the same process.

Thanks for the insight. After reading through the FAQ and my 740 Haynes I considered that the conical washers were either improperly installed or missing. Yesterday I pulled the upper cover off, after removing the water pump pulley, and found the lower cover to be full of rubber "hair." Something has shaved the belt down to about 1/2" width. I'm hoping the washers are backwards rather than missing.

As far as crank pulley removal, I've ordered the IPD pulley holding tool. So, in the event the conical washers are missing, where are they available? I should have the parts and tool in by Wednesday and plan to do change the belt Wednesday night.

Thanks again,

Erwin in Roanoke.

'88 745T 205,000 miles, sold, (couldn't move all three)
'94 945T 117,000 miles
'95 855T 150,000 miles

The conical washers are available at the dealer. All I remember is that I was not shocked at the price, maybe 5 dollars. You can go ahead a buy one or two and always return them if not needed.

I use the crank hold down tool, a long half inch breaker bar and a three foot piece of pipe for leverage. For tightening that last 60Deg, I just glued two sticks together at a 60 Deg V and kind of eye it up. Never quite got to 60 Deg in 6 timing belt changes, close though.

I replaced the belt yesterday afternoon. I have to say, it took more time and was more hassle getting the three V belts off than it was getting the crank pulley off and on thanks to the IPD tool. WELL worth the price.

Both conical washers were present but the one toward the front had been polished highly by the belt running against it. I also replaced the tensioner. The old one had a fair amount of rumble in the bearing.

As far as tightening the crank pulley, with it locked in place as it was, it didn't take much to get to the 44ft/lbs + 60 degrees, minus a couple of degrees.

The only foul-up was my fault. I managed to bend the A/C compressor's belt tension adjustment screw when locking everything down.

BTW, I discovered that it's best to loosen the water pump pulley's bolts before loosening the PS belt. I had the belt off before realizing I had to pull the pulley. FYI, a strap-type oil filter wrench makes a dandy water pump pulley holder!

Cheers and thanks for the advice.

Erwin in Roanoke

Crank holding "tool. WELL worth the price" I agree.

"The old one had a fair amount of rumble in the bearing" You may have saved yourself a tow.

"+ 60 degrees, minus a couple of degrees" Volvo should revise that 60 deg to 45-50 deg!!!

"I managed to bend the A/C compressor's belt tension adjustment screw" BTDT. You will have to buy the whole tension assembly just to get a new screw which is not too expensive. I think FCPG has them.

You did not mention the reason for the belt getting shaved down. Check the belt within 500 miles to make sure it is OK and the problem is solved. Don’t forget to re-tension the belt.

94/95 engines had the revised timing belt lasting 100k miles. This belt has rounded teeth, not the angular teeth of the earlier belt. MAKE SURE you get the right application.
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See the 700/900 FAQ at the "select shortcut" button, upper right of your screen.

"94/95 engines had the revised timing belt lasting 100k miles.

Steve,

I believe that belt started on the '93 240s and 940s.

And it's only 100k miles for the B230 FD, to the best of my researching ability.
This is backed up by footnotes in my '93 940 Owners Manual.

Why the FD I can't say -- but it's specified as 50k replacement for the B230 F and FT.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Bruce, I think you are correct. Thanks.
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See the 700/900 FAQ at the "select shortcut" button, upper right of your screen.

This gets stranger the more I look into it.

93 940: B230F and B230FT without EGR: 50k interval
93 940: B230FT WITH EGR: 100k
94 940: Ditto
95 940: All engines: 100k

This per the maintenance charts at VolvoCars.com
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See the 700/900 FAQ at the "select shortcut" button, upper right of your screen.

That EGR "connection" also turned up when I was trying to determine what defined the "D" in B230fD — as being an(other) apparent requirement for the 100,000k belt interval.

I still have these questions ('93-'94 cars) :

1) Are all EGR cars B230FDs?

2) Do all B230FD cars have EGR?

3) Why does the B230FD (and/or EGR) allow the longer belt interval?

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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

The following is in my opinion.

Broken timing belts are one thing you don’t see too much of on the board and when you do it is a botched install, a broken tensioner, not tensioned or it is way over the normal change interval.

The longer 100k timing belt change interval is a good and valid marketing feature. There are quite a few square tooth 240s that go well over 100k and I think I saw some brick boarders toting over 200k on a the original square tooth belt. Well lets say most square tooth belts can make it to at least 100k under normal use and abuse but maybe a few do not. The rounded tooth version may be a little gentler on the belt by minimizing cracks in the tooth corners therefore making the 100k change valid.

The EGR valve should have nothing to do with the change interval.

Turbos should demand a little more from a time belt but many round tooth turbos are good for 100k too.

We are looking for the reason why all round tooth belts are not good for 100k and I don’t think there are any. Why wouldn’t it be safe using the following: Square tooth, of course change at 50k. All round tooth, 100k.

My 93 Rex/Regina with a rounded tooth belt is a little past due for a 50K timing belt change and I’ll probably get to it closer to 60k. I still question why I shouldn’t wait until I reach 100k.


(I did find a square tooth belt where a round tooth should have been. I wonder how long that would have lasted.)

..."why all round-tooth belts are not good for 100k..."

It is, why are there two different R-T specifications: 50k vs 100k ('93-'94)?

As near as I can tell, the 100k spec seems to apply only to the B230 FD motor.

So my related question is — what exactly defines the "D" motor, enabling or allowing the longer change interval?

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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

I have no clue. Volvo distinguishes 94-95 engines between ALL those (B230F/T/FD) with EGR (100k change interval) and without EGR (50k change interval). I am sure the mere presence of EGR would not affect the belt's life, so there must be some other design differences between the engines.
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See the 700/900 FAQ at the "select shortcut" button, upper right of your screen.

I had a 230FD with EGR and both my 95 B230FTs have EGR.
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See the 700/900 FAQ at the "select shortcut" button, upper right of your screen.

Definitely the wrong belt.

See the 700/900 FAQ for timing belt procedures.

You can get a high quality belt and tensioner from FCP Groton for about $50.
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Jonathan Knauer - 94 945Ti - fun!

Thanks,

Today I'm going to look at what I'll need to pull the crank pulley. I don't have the IPD holder and may try an air wrench.

I'm also considering that the belt may have been the proper width when installed but has been shaving itself down as it's walking off the front of the pulleys. There is a fair amount of rubber "dust" in the cover.

Looking through the FAQ I found an entry by Chris Herbst regarding properly seating of the tensioner or the belt will walk. If I can get the crank pulley off I'll be doing this repair myself. I did my 855T's belt recently which wasn't difficult, just cramped.

Erwin in Roanoke

You don't need a holder just use your starter.
Air/impact wrench did not work for me, but a 18" long 1/2" socked arm securley supported and a fraction turn on the starter loosened it pronto.
Good luck.
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EJO now a 1993 944T 197K

"Today I'm going to look at what I'll need to pull the crank pulley. I don't have the IPD holder and may try an air wrench."

An air wrench will loosen the bolt, provided there is room for access. But some kind of counter-hold is essential for tightening to the proper torque spec:
44 ft lbs plus an additional 60° of bolt rotation.

My favorite counter-hold is called the "Rope Trick". The search box at the top ofthe page will lead you to the details, and many of my posts recommending this method. Don't be put off by the "trick"name — it works perfectly and won't hurt the motor. The only complaints seem to be from nay-sayers who've never tried it.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

I'm considering a rope or tiedown to strap the pulley but my only concern is messing up the damper by pulling the outer v-belt portion loose from the rubber damper or the the inner pulley.

This is a TPE. Tool Purchasing Event. I have a compressor, torque wrenches, several sets of 6 & 12 point sockets in 1/2 and 3/8" drive but no air wrench.

Going shopping.

Erwin in Roanoke,

Sorry I anwered your wrong thread. Don't use the rope trick for loosening, forget the air wrenches (requires a lot more to be removed for access, just use your starter. See my earlier posts.
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EJO now a 1993 944T 208K

We all know how the starter trick will loosen the pulley bolt. But how do you tighten that bolt to the specified torque value: 44 ft lbs plus another 60°?

A few people here have learned the hard way that the torque is specified for a reason—when the pulley lets loose and shears the nub off the crank sprocket, or worse.

Some examples Here, Here, Here, and a sprocket fix Here.

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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

I've made my share of "tools" over the years to remove or install all manner of flywheels, gears, bearings etc.

This time however, I went ahead and ordered the proper tool from IPD. I'll let you know how the project goes. As I've posted above, it's possible that the two dished washers are either installed improperly or missing. I'll know when I get the pulley off.

Thanks,

Erwin in Roanoke

You're right, trying to strap/tie the pulley is asking for trouble.

At the risk of pissing off those who've never tried it but have negative opinions on the subject, here is my canned "sales pitch" for the Rope Trick...

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Although I own both counterhold tools for the B230 and B21/23, I no longer use either one. Instead, I prefer a piece of cotton clothesline (nylon or similar is OK too), for what is called "The Rope Trick". It's quicker and easier than the "tool", and the basic steps are simple:

1 - Pull plugs and rotate crank to #1 0° TDC Compression
2 - Verify #1 and #2 valves closed - look thru oil fill hole, #1 cam pointed slightly up and inboard, #2 pointed horizontally outboard.
3 - Rotate crank about 90° past TDC.
4 - Stuff about 3 feet of clothesline into # 1 plug hole, leaving 6" outside (feeding the rope in thru a short length of heater hose makes the job even quicker).
5 - Rotate the crank backwards until the packed rope stops further rotation.
6 - Use socket, breaker bar, and pipe extension to loosen pulley bolt.
7 - Tighten bolt the same way, but start with crank about 90° before #1 TDC Comp.
8 - When tight to spec, back the crank up a little a little and remove clothesline.

To my knowledge, this is the only "trick" holding tool alternative that allows tightening the bolt to book spec of 44 lb ft, then an additional 60° (B230), or 122 ft lbs. for B21/23.

Here's what some first-time users had to say:

• "The "rope trick" for holding the engine still while removing the harmonic balancer bolt worked like a charm. Honestly, I doubted that it would, but WOW!"

• "I finally had an opportunity today to use one of the "rope" tricks to help take off the crank bolt. All I can say is - it worked like a charm! Two seconds and I had the crank bolt off..."

* "I did this a few weeks ago exactly as ... described and it couldn't have been easier." 5/29/05

• "....the rope trick worked like a charm to loosen and tighten the crank pulley bolt!!," 12/28/05

• "tryed the . . . method without any luck but the rope trick worked fine to remove the pully bolt" 1-10-06

• "(thanks for the rope trick! Worked like a charm.)" 6-26-06

• "i just completed the task using the rope trick and my opinion is that it is extremely gentle as compared to jamming a screw driver anywhere. it required about 5 to 6 ft. of 1/4 inch rope and made mission impossible mission simple."

• 4-25-07 at http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1178645.

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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.