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Another way to let more air through the radiator 200

This may have been covered before, but if so, I didn't see it. I got to looking at the air intake grille today, and all I could see were the two big horns in front of the condensor/radiator. I unbolted them, and drilled another hole in the center support (down at the bend) and rebolted the horns there. I didn't need to extend any wires, and was able to secure the wiring with an electrical tie wrap. The horns are still as loud as ever, and they don't contact anything but the center support bar. Best of all, there is nothing blocking the air path to the cooling system. I do have a screen installed behind the grille in honor of the Love Bugs that we get this month, and in the fall.

Bill
--
Those who beat their swords into plowshares, will surely plow for those who did not.








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    And another way... 200

    I also moved my horns - to allow more air through the reduced opening that's I've built for fuel economy purposes. But then I don't drive in FL!

    Anyway, you should check to see if you have your lower air scoop baffle, located behind the air dam. It helps cooling by blowing additional air on the a/c condenser and radiator.

    I don't know what it's properly called but we had (3) 240s at one time and none of them had that scoop. If I hadn't been snooping around the junkers at a local shop I'd never have learned about it.

    Air dam has three oval openings near the center. Behind the openings there's a black plastic baffle that catches the air coming through the openings and directs it up behind the bumper to the radiator. Has tabs that rest on the oval hole edges. Rear edge of baffle clips on at lower edge of a/c condenser.

    So far as I can tell, it's one size fits all 240s. Maybe different for the very early ones. Check for the four clips at the rear edge by a/c condenser; make sure you have them all. If your car is missing the panel it likely has most or all of the clips.

    Add a wire or something to hold it in place just in case the tabs slip off their resting places. Many of those scoops are gone now.

    --
    Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, airbox heater upgraded, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, aero front face, quad horns, tach, small clock.








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    Another way to let more air through the radiator 200

    Bill
    I have an '86 sedan and last year moved my horns and installed a high output pusher fan from a Mercedes Benz diesel tied in with a 40 amp relay and hardwired into the A/C compressor so that when the A/C kicks on the fan does too and the engine temp stays just where it's supposed to. I'm near you up in Green Cove Springs just south of Jacksonville, so the heat and humidity is always an issue.
    Hope this helps.
    --
    '86 sedan with 381K miles with original engine and automatic transmission








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      Another way to let more air through the radiator 200

      Howdy all,

      Since folks are moving obstacles from in front of the radiator and installing tropical fans I am surprised that no one has addressed the need for improving the path of the exiting air.

      The engine compartment is mostly sealed so that air flowing through the radiator creates a high pressure area inside the engine compartment as air "buches" up at the rear of the compartment. The now thoroughly heat saturated air is forced to exit by following the contour of the firewall to the underside of the car. Removing the belly pan is not a good idea because then the heated air exiting the radiator is pulled forward and recycled through the radiator when you are waiting at traffic lights or stuck in a traffic jam; just the time when you need all the cooling you can get. All this has been proven with temperature probes and pitot tubes by those whose job it is to do such things. Lucky for us, eh?

      One air flow improvement is to install an air dam. At highway speeds an air dam will create a low pressure area beneath the engine compartment that will effectively pull air through the radiator. However, the bottom edge must be very close to the ground to work properly. If it is more than 2 inches above the road surface it is not a functional air dam. That means it must be made of rubber because anything less flexible will be broken immediately. Any car that sees daily use will surely break even a rubber air dam eventually. An air dam, as effective as it is, will only work at speed; it is useless around town.

      So, short of punching louvres into the hood, the only place to improve exiting air flow is at the back edge of the hood. Remove the rubber along the top edge of the cowl that is meant to seal against the closed hood. Adjust the hinges so that the back edge of the hood stands proud of the cowl by about a 3/8 of an inch when closed. The resulting gap will move mountains of air.

      --
      Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 52 year old fat man








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      Another way to let more air through the radiator 200

      I got to drive down to Orlando yesterday to pick my Daughter up at OIA. I ran the turnpike to the 528 (Beachline) and the speed on both these highways is 75+ with the A/C running full boogie. Not once did the temp go to anywhere near the danger zone. I really do think that this works.

      Bill
      --
      Those who beat their swords into plowshares, will surely plow for those who did not.








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      Another way to let more air through the radiator 200

      Hello Gent's

      One more thing that will move a bunch more air across the coils, is the Tropical Fan Clutch also known as the "Swamp Cooler". When it is installed you can stand by the fender with the hood up and feel a good breeze from the fan. With the Bosch AC pusher fan running you feel a bit more air moving. But this thing really improves the air flow. Installs right were the old clutch is now and all you need to install is a screwdriver to move the cowling back and a 10mm wrench. Maybe a magnet to pick up those little nuts when they drop.

      Read about the Swamp Cooler here on the BB for a couple of years and finally busted down and ordered one from Dave Barton along with a set of window seals for the doors. Could not help myself and got a 200K "Prancing Moose" sticker. Too lazy to go a dealer and order the sticker, and too cheap to pay $25 for a metal badge I guess. Dave shipped right away and he took Paypal, so if you are tempted to make the leap I give him a thumbs up.

      Keep it cool!

      Regards,

      Paul








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    Another way to let more air through the radiator 200

    Today, temperature in the mid 80's, I needed to operate the A/C, and I had a 20 mile loop to make in traffic. Since I had relocated the horns, I thought I might be able to see a difference. It did not make any difference in the operating temperature, which is not surprising, since the temperature is thermostatically controlled, but with the A/C going full blast, I did notice that the gauge dropped more quickly without the air being blocked, or maybe it was my imagination. I think I can see an improvement.

    Bill
    --
    Those who beat their swords into plowshares, will surely plow for those who did not.








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      Another way to let more air through the radiator 200

      I am sure you won't notice a difference unless you have an oil or water temp guage. Remember that the guages are compensated and will stay in the middle so the average consumer doesn't freak if the needle moves a little.

      I have an e-fan from a 92+ 940 on my 744t and i love it.

      Also, really digging the screen idea! I hate bugs in my intercooler and radiator.

      -brant

      P.S. I guess i don't have the extra stress of the A/C in my car, or even a condenser.
      --
      89' 744ti, 106K miles, slushbox : 87' 745ti, 229K miles, m46!








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        Another way to let more air through the radiator 200

        I do still have the factory coolant temperature gauge, but I do not have the factory compensating board. Since I don't freak out if the temperature gauge does cycle a little, I decided that I would rather see a representative sample of what was going on under the hood, and so I ditched it. Might I suggest that you do the same.

        Bill
        --
        Those who beat their swords into plowshares, will surely plow for those who did not.








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          Another way to let more air through the radiator 200

          trust me i will, do you know how to do it on a 7xx series??? I know how on a 240, but not quite sure about the 740's.

          thanks in advance for the help

          -brant
          --
          89' 744ti, 106K miles, slushbox : 87' 745ti, 229K miles, m46!








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            Another way to let more air through the radiator 200

            I don't know if the 7XX or 9XX series even use the compensating board. If so, I'd get rid of it. On my 245, I just want to see what's going on with the temp, more than an exact number. I know that the thermostat opens at about 9 o'clock and closes at about 8 o'clock. Using these positions as a reference, I can see when things happen.

            Bill
            --
            Those who beat their swords into plowshares, will surely plow for those who did not.







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