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Howdy y'all,
I recently purchased an exclusively Southern kept, garaged 240DL Automatic, with 252k on her. Runs great, tranny tight no slop, no valve tapping or hesitation. Going to run compression check, and flush fluids this weekend. She only had one owner and is in impeccable condition.
What I would like to know what those of you that have 87 240's is what should I be aware of or on the lookout for.
I have already redone an 84 244 and been down the wiring harness road, oy! To my knowledge this one has not had the harness replaced, but will address that when she shows symptoms.
Suggestions, comments, warnings? She is for my sister and would like to make sure I've done what I can for it before handing it over.
Thanks guys!
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I got my 87 245 last August. Obviously, you know about reworking the breather box, flame trap and all associated hoses. After that, new fluids all around seemed to make sense.
I changed over to Redline for my transmission (m47), rear end, and oil. Expensive, but I have been pleased. The oil is $10.00 a quart, but I will only change about every 7,500 miles. The Redline web site says you can go 18,000 between changes, but my daddy didn't raise me that way. I am not a scientist, but after spending a lot of time on the Redline site, and checking the archives it seemed like a pretty good first step when my 245 came to me. Unlike yours, mine had been neglected and had had some rough treatment.
From the site: DRAIN INTERVALS
Red Line stands alone in the ability to provide
extended drain intervals and lower friction and
wear. Red Line Synthetic oils have been shown to
last 25,000 miles in field tests; however we recommend
shorter drain intervals in order to provide a
margin of safety with the oil. We recommend draining
the oil between 12,000 and 18,000 miles
depending on the type of service and the degree of
blow-by gases contaminating the oil.
Wiglaf
87 245
95 850
01 XC70
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Actually I wasn't aware of the breather box and flame trap. Is there a thread on this?
Thanks for the feedback gang! :)
HC
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'87 is also the last year for locating the flame trap under the intake manifold. When you go to clean the flame trap and breather box, do yourself a favor and put the '88+ style hoses on, instead of the original '87 setup. That will take the flame trap holder from under the intake manifold to more on top of it--makes it much easier to service in the future. And don't forget to clean out the small brass nipple that sits in the center of the intake manifold, and replace the small hose that runs from it to the flame trap.
Regular flame trap servicing (something like every other oil change) is your best defense against oil leaks.
Best,
Afton
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There are threads on it. I clean the breather box too.
--
240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars
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Aside from the Wiring harness that you are aware of.
So what I have to offer is not '87 specific.
I would also do a Timing Belt so you can see/make sure that it is done and ready for another 50K while in there you can eyeball the front seals. You are already doing the fluids..good. I would also repack the front wheel bearings.
check motor mounts.
That's all I got
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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We bought an '87 with 312k on it last July. Pretty well sorted out by the PO's mechanic. Just a few issues.
Basically, that wiring harness. If it's crappy, just replace it. Check all of the basics. Plugs, wires, etc. Might as well flush the fluids.
Replace the 25amp fuse holder with a waterproof one. Clean all of the engine bay grounds. Check the windshield for leaks.
Otherwise, press on!
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club
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Hi,
Not all '87s have the biodegradable wiring. I have an '87 with original factory harnesses. No problems with it at 400k miles.
More important on the '87s is that it was the last year before they improved the factory rust proofing. From what I've seen, '88-on cars are much less prone to rusting than the '87s, whether up north or down south. Besides from doing a very through search and destroy for rust, just do the zero-mile, major tune up type of stuff. I think there's details in the FAQ, or maybe run a search for "zero mile". At 252k, she's just getting broken in. Enjoy!
Best,
Afton
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There are two schools of Volvo maintenance: "Drive it until something breaks" and "obsessive insanity." I chose the latter. I recommend the first.
That is all.
--
'93 244: 'A' cam 4 deg. advanced, 25/22 sways, custom heim endlinks, poly bushings, and a lot more styling customization than I care to recount.
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