So I have been looking closely at the exhaust system lately, prompted by the crumbling manifold gasket [see pic].... and some leaky exhaust sounding noises ...

In preparation for removing the manifold, I am doing the mutli day PB Blaster soaking routine, and looking over everything real good. Made the following discoveries:

1)manifold to header pipe has a loose nut [outboard & forward side}
2]manifold to header pipe has a missing nut [inboard side]
3)header pipe bracket not attached to header pipe [good bell housing attachment]
4)space between the 2 header pipe tubes at the bracket is only wide enough for a 5mm bolt to pass down between the tubes [bolt hole in bracket measures 9mm, for an 8mm bolt I guess....]
5)I need a STRONG 5mm x 2 3/4 in bolt to get the header pipe attached to the bracket [I'm guessing this will eventually break, but at least it will hold up the header pipe when i pull the exh manifold]

So to quote Rosanne Roseannadanna "If it isn't one thing, it's another, but it's always something"

So with gaskets, studs & nuts arriving any day now, and sunny skies forecast for the weekend, I'll be spending the better part of it under the car....uggh

Well on teh brighter side of things, I guess these exhaust leaks will change the O2 sensor signal for the better and help things fun better ???

Soooo..... do you all have any time saving, knuckle saving tips for me ????

TIA,
John

The header pipe to the bell housing support actually uses a bolt plate with 2 studs attached to the plate. This bolt plate ties the support to the header pipe, and is secured with 2 flat washers and nuts. The bolt plate goes in from the front, and the nuts and washers are fitted from the rear. If you can find one of these at a scrap yard, it will be easier to maintain a leak free system.

Bill

i've looked all thru Bentley & Haynes and cannot find a pic of what you are describing....
I am about to do teh bailing wire routine on it,,,, haha
J

Hello,


I find that it is good to warm the engine and retighten the header once cold. I know that it is a PITA, but it really helps.

Use a wire wheel / power drill to clean the flange and manifold.


Goatman

Hello,

Numbers 7-13 in the picture are the exhaust bracket assembly. You can get at the nuts from the top, leaning into the engine bay, or from underneath with a universal and a 13mm socket. When I did my gaskets I unbolted the exhaust manifold at the head and before the cat. converter, and removed the entire manifold and downpipe as one assembly. I also re-installed it this way as one piece. That way I could make sure the manifold to downpipe connection was tightned down properly and I didn't have to struggle tightning the nuts down with the manifold on the car. I hope this makes sense...

-Brian

Got an 8mm x 20mm bolt & flanged nut and attached bracket to pipes. Also found a nut to put on the empty manifold/header stud [it came off RH motor mount] and torqued down those 3 nuts ⎛mm 6pt socket]. This is a just temp fix cause next week when the parts come in I am going to pull the manifold & header pipe to r&r everything - studs, nuts & gaskets.

Gues I do something about the busted CAT while I have the header pipe off...

Also, cracked loose the manifold studs and re-tightened. 13mm 6pt socket. In spite of the days of PB Blaster soak the nuts didn't turn on the studs, but the studs turned out easily.

Thx again,
J

now that bracket arrangement makes sense, and your tip on pulling it all out does as well, with the header pipe out, getting that bolt into the bracket will be easy!

WHERE did you get that great diagram?

Tack så mycket,
John