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That's looking really nice. New rubber mat sets are VERY spendy but I think VP have carpet sets for a reasonable price. That would finish it off well.
I see from the engine pic that you appear to have a splash/deflector plate under the rear carb but in idling conditions that will just get hot too and the rear float bowl will heat up. A rather larger plate could be made to go behind both carbs with an extra "wing" at the rear. This might help some. Sitting idling in 95º heat is asking a lot from the set up without problems and there won't be many PV's that get within 10 or 15º of that. It may come down to a combination of things. Percolationg of the fuel tends to keep the float valve shut, at tickover the pump is working at it's slowest and the diaphragm may be a bit tired, and the tank might have some rusty flakes in which makes life more difficult for the pump. If you've managed to set it to a smooth but very low rpm tickover, which is always very satisfying, that might be counter productive. 850 rather than 700rpm would allow the fan to move some more air through when stopped.
Have you got the steady bracket fitted between the bell housing and the exhaust? This reduces the chance of the manifold cracking but might also help as a heat sink as well.
Good luck.
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Could you possibly have a float level issue with a carb, or a float valve needle not closing all the way? I figure if the problem wasn't too severe it might diminish while driving as the engine used more fuel, but increase as the car sat idling. The fuel level would go up at idle and cause flooding.
Bill
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One question begets another.
You appear to have your passenger side door rear view mirror mounted in exactly the same position as I have mine on my 544. This leads me to ask if you can actually see anything with it? Mine will not adjust inward far enough to view behind the car - I look at people on the sidewalk - and then from just the last 1" of mirror surface as the post on the wing window blocks the rest of my view of the mirror from the driver's seat!
Hope you find a solution to your SU dilemma. I would be just guessing if I were to venture some observation like "have you checked the balance of your idle adjustment to make sure that both carbs are running in balance?"
By the way. Beautiful job on the restoration!
Suppo 176
1965 PV544
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The passenger side mirror is mounted about 3/4" more towards the rear of the car than the driver's side mirror (flat). This just frames the curve of the mirror with the curve of the vent wing lower front side. It is reasonably useful but it is a convex mirror too. It allows you to see the RR fender area if you don't mind "craning" a bit. The mirrors are Lucas knockoffs that I got from Moss Motors, I wish the arms were a bit longer but, for the price (and the availibility of the convex style) I am pretty happy with them. I think that some sort of useful mirrors are a 'must' with the 4/544 body style.
The carbs are pretty well in balance and tuned fairly well too, driveablity is as good as any B16 car that I know of (and better than I remember them). It produces reasonable power and the thing purrs like a kitten at idle except when asked to do so when standing still for a while on hot days.
Its a hoot to drive except for this minor problem!! I am even starting to like the 3spd. - double clutching practice!
Cheers!
OK
PS The interior mirror is one I 'adapted' from a mid 60's Ford Galaxy, it gives a bit more of a view than the tiny original!
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OK,
Your restoration is looking awesome!! Are you bringing her down to SC in October?
I was wondering, are your seat rails correctly installed (with the seat adjuster on the outside), or are mine installed wrong (with the seat adjuster on the inside)??
Take care,
Tony
--
Tony Scarola
1958 Volvo PV444 (P44408)
See http://www.scarolas.com/58VolvoPV444/
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OK,
For whatever it's worth, I drove 122s with B16s for years in the tropics and never had any problems with manifold heat affecting carburetor function. Air flow under the hood in a PV is, probably, quite different from that in an Amazon, but still, I'd think the problem may lie elsewhere.
Bob S.
--
"62 PV544 (B20, M41), "71 142E, "93 240 Classic Wagon.
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What part of the tropics?
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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Nice looking car!
Could your problem be that one or both carbs are running way too rich at idle, leading to fouled plugs? Let it idle until it starts to stumble, shut it off without revving it up first, pull the plugs and take a look. If they are all sooty (could be either the front or rear pair or all four) a likely cause is worn needles or jets. It might also be that the heat problem (float bowl close to manifold) you mentioned is causing it to run too rich at idle, particularly on the rear carb. I've never had a B16 car, so I'm not that familiar with them, but later models usually have some kind of heat deflector under the carbs (which also keeps gas from pouring directly onto the hot manifold if a float should stick or sink)---could this be missing on yours?
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Hi Blue, and thanks for the reply! You could be right but the problem does not show up on a cool day or in the mornings. It seems to only surface when temps are in the 95+ range and we have no shortage of really hot days in this part of Arizona. I am worried about the car stalling in summer stop & go traffic.
As far as I know there was no heat shield under the carbs on the B16s, at least none of my B16s has one. If anyone knows of such a shield please chime in!
Cheers!
OK
PS The car is not running hot otherwise - the coolant temp stays around 175-180 even during the idle periods where the stumble starts.
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Hey , just a thought , can you stuff something like a welders mit or something that won`t catch on fire between the rear carb and manifold when the conditions are right for the problem ? There must be some way to temporarily isolate the carb from the manifold . I remember reading about this somewhere that the manifold temperatures can affect the carbs on a b16 and it seems like I have seen a spacer that is thicker than the one you are using . How thick is the spacer you are using because I think I may have a couple that are thicker . Nice resto . Wish my 58 looked that nice . Larry
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Hi Led, and thanks for the idea! I have additional phenolic spacers and adding one to each carb would move them "up and out" a bit from the exhaust manifold and if anything changes (and even if it does not) it would help me diagnose what is really going on.
I thought this might be a common problem with these engine/carb combos but Sil's response seems to indicate otherwise. Sil, did your 122s have SUs?
Attached is a photo of the area in question - its a little hard to see, but there is only about an inch between the ex. manifold and the float bowl of the rear carb.
Cheers!
OK
PS The PO had switched the passenger and drivers seats, the adjustment should be inboard, I have not switched them back yet.
.
_
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posted by
someone claiming to be sdewolfe
on
Sun Jun 1 01:30 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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Howdy,
For the younger folk who have no clue:
"Double clutching" helps to lessen crunching the gears when shifting a transmission that has no sychronizers. To shift from a lower gear to higher gear, depress the clutch, move the shifter to neutral, release the clutch briefly and reapply it before moving to the next gear. To shift down, move through the same routine but also "goose" the gas pedal in neutral to bring the revs up a bit. Both up and down, the idea is to match the engine speed and transmission speed as closely as you can.
And, that is a good looker you've got the Old Kombi.
I think you may have a combination of factors that individually would not be a problem but altogether create the rough idle when hot. Your fuel line, routed right behind the thermostat housing is picking up heat from the housing. That rear float bowl certainly looks to be very close to the exhaust. Air flow through the engine compartment when stopped will be nonexistant. And finally, today's fuel has alcohol content of no less than 10% in most markets.
Add a little length to the fuel hose from the pump over to the carbs to make it bow up and away from the thermostat housing. Space the carbs out as you plan but also, make a heat shield to mount like the one used on the 122S. Add a little pancake fan somewhere on the fender well to stir the air around the carbs when stopped. Write a nice letter to the EPA thanking them for adding corn squeezin's to our fuel supply.
-sd
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Thanks all for the many good ideas/tips!
I am thinking of getting Grosse valves for the car anyway as I have had good luck with them on my '68 122 B18. They are pretty inexpensive and now that the tank is producing crud free gas at the carbs, something that I had planned to do anyway. I am pretty sure the float levels (if there is no leakage/sticking) are correct.
There is also a possiblity that the exhaust system is producing too much back pressure which might account for excess manifold heat. The resonator is pretty rusty looking and may have internal blockage problems, the ex. system was missing from about 3' behind it (entire rear section gone). I cobbled up a 90deg. bend with adaptors to exit the ex. in front of the rear wheel. The car should be street legal on Monday, so I intend to have a local muffler shop bend up something in 1 3/4 or 2" pipe that runs (more or less) along the route that the stock exhaust took with a transverse muffler at the rear.
If none of these measures help then I guess it is time to make a 'real' shield, I put one on the rear carb and it does seem to delay the onset of the problem. I wonder if on H4s you could simply rotate the float bowl on the rear carb to the front (you would have to do something with the fast idle mech.)?
Again, thanks for the responses/ideas!
OK
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No problem Tony, glad I could help. I need to get out and change them, it makes it even harder to get your feet in or out as there is not much space between the seat and door anyway on 444s!
Cheers!
OK
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Sil, did your 122s have SUs? Yes. Same setup, but without the fancy air cleaners, of course. ;-)
BTW, I didn't mean to imply that heat from the exhaust manifold should be ruled out, just that, based on my experience in a very hot climate, I'd check out any other possibilities first. On the other hand, wrapping something non-flammable around the floatbowl and lower jet doesn't involve a lot of work, and if that does the trick, I'd be delighted to have been wrong. Should your plugs, by any chance, show evidence of leanness, rather than richness, it could be that the exhaust manifold is getting bit hotter than it should, at least, so I've been told - no personal experience. I believe that retarded timing can also overheat the exhaust.
Bob S.
--
"62 PV544 (B20, M41), "71 142E, "93 240 Classic Wagon.
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