I inspected the caliper i had just purchased from a local ma n pa and it is indeed wrong. Dimple on top. Incorrect outer half. I got a right outer mounted upside down on my left caliper. Bummer.
I take advice well so i ordered a pair.

As usual I am humbled by Brickboard. Thanks all.
No way in a million years would I have figured that out.
We will see how it all ends shortly.

This is important stuff all Bricksters should know about.
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420,000KM and still ticking

my only addition to your situation is if you elect to power bleed you have 2 choices: push or pull

you can build or buy a power bleeder which attaches to the master cylinder and pushes fluid under modest pressure through the system . the old expelled at the bleeder nuts.

or you can pull the fluid out the bleeder nuts into a bottle using a vacuum while having a passive refill bottle attached to and above the MC feeding fresh fluid into it.

i can say with experience having built my own push bleeder which worked perfectly this method is simple and direct.

recently i had to diagnose a brake booster leak on one of my girls cars. to do this i bought a mityvac at harborfreight for 37 dollars.

i found this tool will also with touch of a nob also become a pressurizer as well.

this tool is imo in-dispensible for all home mechanics.

to make a long story short using it to bleed brakes is much easier and safer than pressurizing the MC. because you are with the tool and source of power on you brake system at each point and the MC is only being "passively" refilled as fluid is pulled out you have much better finesse and control over the process using vacuum.

any way my 2 cents

and mityvac makes a great tool and it is cheap for what it can do.


MV7000 Automotive Tune-up and Brake Bleeding Kit

Replacing or or repairing one caliper is a mistake, unless you like brakes that can pull you into oncoming traffic or the ditch! In short, I highly recommend you replace the caliper on the other side of the car....

When it comes to bleeding, a power bleeder can be handy, but is by far less than mandatory! On our 92 245 ABS car, I removed each and every brake component and rebuilt them (along with everything else), I even flushed the hard brake lines as well as replacing the flex lines. It took one hour by myself with a baseball bat (to hold the pedal down against the seat) and a few quarts of brake fluid to bleed the system. Yes, all four corners of the car were up in the air... on jack stands.

Many folks state the importance of eliminating leaks in the brake system, but that ain't so bad in my mind as the brake pedal will let you know there is a problem. My personal opinion is that symmetrical brake balance/bias is CRITICAL especially in slick conditions! After all, when you hit the brakes while in a straight line, having to steer one way or the other, just doesn't make sense! In short, alarm bells should be going off if you even remotely sense such an event.

jorrell
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

Power bleed is always a good idea with the simlest power bleed made out of a spare reservoir cap and a tire valve . You need some sort of pump (I used bicycle pump) to pressurize the system.
Regards
Gopesh

The mismatched caliper halves alert is critical.

That being said, there are three places in this system that are TOUGH to get the air out of - the caliper itself, the block where the failure switch is located, and that thing above the rear axle (I used to know what it was called).

A power bleeder is pretty much a necessity once the caliper has been dry or replaced. The kind that use your spare tire as a pressure source work just fine, but remember one thing - the threaded neck on our reservoirs is rather short. If your kit comes with two round gaskets for the cap that fits your reservoir, the second gasket is NOT a spare. Use both gaskets or you will leak fluid all over the car and the floor. (voice of experience)

If you replaced the caliper with a rebuilt one, the caliper halves may have been mismatched by the rebuilder. You can verify if the calipers halves are correctly matched by checking for match mark divots at the bottom of each caliper half casting. If only one caliper half has the divot, the halves are mismatched and it will be impossible to bleed all the cylinders of that caliper.

Search "Tough Brake Problem" using the Brickboard search engine and it will all be explained in detail.

Rich