I did read the FAQ but here is my situation in particular: I installed a new caliper on the LF and most of the brake fluid leaked out (into a bottle) in the time it took me to install the new caliper.

So, since I'm now missing nearly half of the fluid in the reservoir, do I go about the usual sequence of bleeding or do I do the LF caliper first after refilling the reservoir. And, how should I refill the reservoir?

And, since life is just too short, I popped for the $50 and bought a Power Bleeder. It will get plenty of use (hopefully).

Thanks.
--
1991 745 & 1993 965 /// RIP: 86 764T; 79 262C

Now would be a good time to flush the entire brake system. Get some of the ATE blue or gold brake fluid and flush all the lines until they change color. Alternate color the next time you do it.

Flushing the fluid may have prevented the need to replace a caliper in the first place.
--
Paul NW Indiana '89 740 Turbo 140,000

If your master cylinder is like my newly "rebuilt"
then you can't use full strokes when bleeding. The deep part of the
master cylinder bore must suffer from corrosion and air is introduced
after some point when you pump the master cylinder.
The master cylinder is a parallel issue with your brake calipers.

Bill

go to the lr,bleed that one.then RR,then rf,then lf.

Fill the reservoir up to the line. Place the rest of your fluid in the bleeder, then attach it to the reservoir and pump it to 20psi. Place a hose on the LF caliper bleed screw into a bottle, then open the screw. Wait until the bubbles stop. Pump the brake pedal about an inch eight or ten times for the first caliper to bleed the MC. Then do the RF, then the rears. Release the pressure in the bleeder by opening the pump, remove it, top off the reservoir, and you are done. The trick is to have a full quart of fluid on hand so you can bleed enough to get the bubbles out.
--
See the 700/900 FAQ at the select shortcut button on the top right of the screen.