I have a 1992 Volvo 240, 210k. I bought it 3 days ago and it started and drove well (it made the 3.5 hours trip back home beautifully). This morning my wife started the car with no problems, drove two blocks and it stalled (she said it was like it ran out of gas). Since, the engine cranks but no sign of starting. Previous owner mentioned that it takes a while to start when warm, not sure if that is related but it didn't seem to be a problem yesterday when running errands (and it was 90 degrees too). I read previous posts, curious if there is a good step by step post regarding diagnosing a no start, but turns over.

I suspect something failed but not sure if I should venture into the electric or fuel route first.

Wouldn't mind giving a general tune-up anyway, so wonder if there are some parts that are good to replace regardless of its effect on starting.

I've been 4 years w/o a volvo and I'm starting to remember only the bad memories, help!

Guild

The power stage/ ignition amplifier often fails when warm but works when cooled off. If it is bad the engine won't run.
Dan

First the bad, then the good...

The bad: there's always a reason someone sells a Volvo (particularly because most owners have strong loyalty -- e.g., how often do you see a 240 for sale?), so you always have to be prepared that it may be a mechanical problem. In my experiences, having bought six used ones since my first and only new purchase in '73, I have two such stories:
1) One couple sold me their '84 car back in '87 (BTW, I still have it and it's been a terrific car all these years) because they had brake work done and, they said, they couldn't get it fixed right -- they were aboveboard about it. I bought it way cheap, thinking how bad can it be, and it was an easy fix: the short version is that I found that the Midas shop (ugh!) where they took it rolled the rubber piston seals under and between the pads and the pistons, causing a spongy pedal that no number of bleedings could cure. I took it home and fixed it in about 30 minutes!
2) My latest car, a '93, was immaculate, and I was suspicious (no reason for being sold, at first) because it, too, was being sold really cheap. But I went back two additional times. Only I noticed that every time I picked it up for a testdrive, the heat was turned full on! I kept turning it down, and I had a guess, though, and the third time I brought my RayTek themometer with me. I drove it long, and sure enough, after a while the temp gauge started climbing into the red! A check with the RayTek, however, showed it wasn't really overheating at all! It was the TCB that was failing. Looking over the thermostat housing, I saw it had been opened recently. Obviously, the owner thought it was a overheating problem they could't solve, but they never told me that! Ha, ha -- the joke was on them -- I just had to remove and bypass the TCB, and it has been a gem to own ever since.

But the good news is that there are few things that aren't easy to diagnose and fix on a 240. So about your problem... this is almost certainly why the previous owner sold the car. But it may not be so bad....

In addition to a simple tune-up, I'd guess that your problem is apt to be (though I can't be certain) a bad Flywheel (or Crankshaft) Position Sensor. This is new from '89 on, so you might not be familiar with it -- it replaces the sensor in the distributor, because the ECU has taken over advance/retard control of the ignition timing (instead of the distributor) and fuel injection to help tell the ECU at what position the crankshaft is.
This probe is, unfortunately, somewhat hard to reach, sitting on top of the bell housing just behind the engine (best seen from above on the passenger side) -- but the original versions frequently goes bad (Volvo campaign no. 68) -- the old, untrustworthy one has a yellow tag, and the new replacement has a white tag.

Other possibilities include a bad fuse (yes, even if it looks good, it may have a hairline crack) -- change the relevent fuses to be sure.

I'd say that I doubt that you have any fuel pump (either one) problems (except perhaps their fuse :-) because your car is too new -- Volvo fuel pumps last an awfully (or wonderfully, actually) long time!

Good luck.

Carlisle.... Mopar weekend last weekend.

Are you close enough to fight with all the festivities?

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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

you know I just moved from there, but my sis sure liked the traffic (charged $10 for parking in back yard). Sure had a bunch of great volvo deals, columbus (OH) doesn't seem to have too many volvo enthusiats.

Tell sis to put some Cots in the garage and rent $50 a night. My friend was there last weekend for Mopars. He books a year in advance to get semi close to the place.

There are , like, zero volvo enthusiasts on Long Island. It seems I'm a dieing breed of Long Islanders that actually work on their own posessions. People rather pay top dollar for a 'profesional' to take shortcuts and cause more problems.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

I concur with the others. Both the Fuel pump relay and the Crank positioning sensor are suspect.

The hard start when hot might lean me a bit toward the Relay. As mentioned on teh other post, the solder joints inside the relay get cracks. Heat might expand these cracks in the solder joints making it hard to start.

This relay can be easily opened up and resoldered.

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/5662/nm/1985_1993_Volvo_240_Fuel_Pump_Relay/category_id/172

The crank positioning sensor also has issues where the insulation down low (out of sight) tears and water works on the sensor. Just as a Baseline with this new car, it would be good to replace it.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/3396/nm/1989_1993_Volvo_240_Engine_Speed_Sensor_Impulse_Sensor/category_id/116

P.S. The cleaning of the fuseholder (#6 i think) couldn't hurt, that too when hot would cause resistance making a hard start condition.

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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Post deleted. I didn't see the year on your car to begin with :-)

Check for corrosion on the main fuel pump fuse, corrosion there will kill it. THis is also the easiest one to fix.
Also, unplug the mass air meter. If it starts the amm needs replacing.
Luck

L.

I'll check it, glad to have a volvo community for support. Thanks.

Rule of thumb with these cars when they don't start, is to first check for spark. You've got to have spark for the fuel system to function, so no sense looking for fuel until you know you have spark.

Typical "hot start" culprits are the crankshaft speed sensor (at top of bell housing) and ignition power stage/module.

For what it's worth, the original crank sensor *always* needs replaced in these cars.

Also, check the main fuel system relay, they develop cracks in the solder... which will then shut down the fuel pumps.

Also also, make sure the fuse panel (and fuses!) have squeaky clean contacts... and clean all connections at the battery and the grounds on the screws that hold the fuel rail.

-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

Tune-up would be a good start, but I'd check your fuel pump relay first. See if you blew any fuses, too.


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'93 244: 'A' cam 4 deg. advanced, 25/22 sways, custom heim endlinks, poly bushings, and a lot more styling customization than I care to recount.

Have you checked to see if the timing belt broke?