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I have installed an HHO Brown's gas generator in my Brick, and everything works (runs smoother, more power, etc.) except there is no gain in milage. Apparently the O2 sensor is compensating for the lack of gas going in by telling the computer to step up the gas delivering through the injectors. I have been told that I need to put an EFIE (fools the O2 sensor) in. What I need to know from the Brickster Brotherhood is this:
1. What kind of O2 sensor do I have? Is it (are they) narrow band sensors?
2. How many of them are there? All of the O2 sensors on the engine side of the catalytic converter need one of these devices.
Thanks!
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I have no opinion about HH0 devices but FWIW, when looking for low cost oxygen sensors on Ebay yesterday, I came across some auctions for O2 sensors designed for HHO applications - not sure whether they are dodgy of course! You might want to do a search there.
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Sorry to tell you this but you have been scammed. Those devices cannot possible increase milage or performance. As for "runs smoother, more power, etc", that is in your imagination. No tweeking of the O2 sensor circuit will change anything, probably make it worse.
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David Hunter
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Popular Mechanics says "rubbish."
http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/new_cars/4271579.html
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1986 Volvo 245
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Sorry back David,
The one that I built produces enough hydrogen to run a small heater, which is my goal. Open that mind up a bit and read some more, and please don't be so quick to criticize folks that are trying to become more energy independent.
Regards,
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Will Dallas, www.willdallas.us, www.willdallas.org, www.willdallas.com, www.dallasprecision.com 86 245 DL 222K miles, 93 940 260K miles, 88 765 GLE 152K miles
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My mind has never closed, being naturally curious I have read and researched this subject thoroughly over several years.
My conclusion:
More energy is consumed to separate the H and O2 atoms than what is generated when that same H is recombined with O2. This is a basic scientific law. And what the heck is HHO?
Amongst all the blatherings of those trying to sell this stuff I have not seen a single credible source of valid correct information. The website that the poster quotes is a typical example. It talks of lighter than air hydrogen pockets being dangerous to rescue persons......and floating corks..... what crap. I suggest reading up about diffusion of gases.
I would be interested to know what volume of hydrogen you are able to produce for your small heater. Perhaps a more practical and efficient car heater was one I saw on the counter at Advance Auto the other day, it's a simple resistive element and a fan. Draws about 20 amps.
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David Hunter
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Hi David,
You are absolutely right that it takes more than battery voltage to power one of these things, and a lot of simple minded folks are getting ripped off as a result. However, there is a patent from 1998 from a firm in Canada that seeks to prevent the use of the design that I built in the USA, and I believe it is the one that those Japanese fellows used that unveiled the car running on hydrogen a couple of months ago. It is certainly well beyond the scope of the average DIYer to install a working system in their car. My project is very small, but I have an ignitable source of hydrogen without, and I think this would be a key to automotive use, adding any electrolytic substance to the water. The next step for me is to complete the PWM driver that I am building and run an exhaustive test for flow and durability. I may build a larger device after that to try and heat a room.
While all of this is interesting, I believe that it would be more prudent if folks would convert over to CNG for powering the automobile. You could theoretically run a higher compression which would give better mileage and produce more horsepower. We are going to undertake a conversion on the 245 this next year.
Right now it is hunting season, so everything is back burnered until after my 16 year old daughter kills her first deer.
A site you may be interested in: http://www.knowledgepublications.com/
Regards,
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Will Dallas, www.willdallas.us, www.willdallas.org, www.willdallas.com, www.dallasprecision.com 86 245 DL 222K miles, 93 940 260K miles, 88 765 GLE 152K miles
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I can safely stand by what I said, battery source, alternator source or any power source with or without a PWM: "More energy is consumed to separate the H and O2 atoms than what is generated when that same H is recombined with O2. This is a basic scientific law."
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David Hunter
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Well David, based on that "Scientific law" I would suggest that you just keep on with whatever else brings you happiness, and leave the search for the impossible to those of us that are too unintelligent to know the difference.
Regards,
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Will Dallas, www.willdallas.us, www.willdallas.org, www.willdallas.com, www.dallasprecision.com 86 245 DL 222K miles, 93 940 260K miles, 88 765 GLE 152K miles
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What you have to have is a variable voltage device that will allow you to adjust between .1 VDC and .9VDC output. This signal replaces the O2 sensor input to the ECU. The lower the voltage (on the LH 2.2 in my 765 it is about .42VDC) the richer the car will run and the higher the voltage (6.2VDC) the leaner the car will run to the point of shutting down the injectors.
I use a Sun Pro fuel-air ratio gauge to read the O2 signal and adjust my ECU to keep the car relatively lean on the highway. The good thing about being able to adjust the mixture on the fly is that richening the mix on acceleration gives a considerable boost in horsepower.
While I build my own units, you can get all of the info or buy a complete unit at http://www.madcosm.com. If you are trying to get enough hydrogen to burn with direct battery voltage across a set of capacitor plates (or some other configuration) you will not get enough output to replace the electrical energy consumed. You will need to buy or build a PWM (pulse width modulator)controller to really see a significant hydrogen production. Good luck with the research!
Regards,
--
Will Dallas, www.willdallas.us, www.willdallas.org, www.willdallas.com, www.dallasprecision.com 86 245 DL 222K miles, 93 940 260K miles, 88 765 GLE 152K miles
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