I tried it a little more this afternoon. I was sticking slightly, I got under the car and took the cable and gave it a good wiggle in a 12" circle or so and that freed it up so the wheel would roll again easily. i think it must be rusted, so I am going to try to remove it this weekend and see if I can add some motorcycle cable lube as you suggested.

Thanks,
Hawkeye

I was told if you have the multilink rear on your 760t the fuel tank should be dropped to access the cable as it runs over top of it, doesn't sound like a fun job at all........ Tom 27940aholic

I was told if you have the multilink rear on your 760t the fuel tank should be dropped to access the cable as it runs over top of it, doesn't sound like a fun job at all........ Tom 27940aholic

No parking brake cables on a brick, but I have done clutch and hood cables on a brick, and parking brake cables on other cars.

Motorcycles use cables to actuate the clutch and (on old bikes) the brakes. You can buy a special rubber lined clamp that slides on from the side and clamps tightly over the end of various sized cables. It has a tiny hole where the tube from an aerosol can fits in so that the lubricant is forced into and down the length of the cable. When you see lube dripping from the far end of the cable, you are done.

Then you need a chain and cable lubricant that will not attack the nylon sleeve that covers the metal cable. The motorcycle shop has that as well.

A good lubricant goes on thin to penetrate and then sets up quickly to a heavy grease as the solvent carrier evaporates (works great for door hinges as well). My favorite chain and cable lube is no longer available. All I can suggest is that I do not like McKay Chain and Cable lubricant.

I have two of these clamps from my days as a motorcycle mechanic 35 years ago. Hopefully they are still available.