I'm pretty sure the suspension in my '66 130 needs to be redone. I get lots of loud clunks when I hit bumps and the car feels a bit "loose".

I've had the car for a year now and haven't done a thing to the suspension. Not sure what the previous owner did, so I'm thinking replacing the shocks wouldn't be a bad idea anyway.

I'm looking for suggestions regarding different configurations available. Mainly I'd like to hear what others here are running, and how satisfied they are with the set up. Pros / Cons, etc...

Idealy I'd like a ride that handles well, but isn't too stiff. Nothing too fancy.

Also, does anyone know if those nylon suspension straps on the rear wheels are available? One of mine is broken and the other isn't very far behind.

Thanks as always!
--
Formerly 'HearToTemptYou'

Olof at http://www.vintageimportparts.com/ has the rear suspension straps. You might want to get the ones for the wagon, which are longer, and custom cut them to the length you want. I found the sedan ones to be a little too short, not allowing enough suspension travel. This might be what happened to the ones on your car. I'm sure someone's going to chime in to say that these straps are short on purpose and should be regarded as sacrificial. I've often wondered if that was the case.

Cheers,
--
Barry -- 1967 122S 'Betty'

There has been some discussion around here regarding the KYB GR2 shocks. I have some and am quite satisfied, especially for the price. Replacing all four shocks is definitely the right place to start, and should cure many of your ills.

However, your clunks and general unsettledness may also be do to worn or failed bushings. Replacing the bushings on my 1800S (I went with poly in about half the spots) made a world of improvement in overall ride quality. It feels much more like a new, solid car than I ever expected. But hey, 40 years will do that to rubber!

Consider that my old shocks were at *least* 23 years old. The car was in a barn from 1984 to 2007...

I installed a set of very affordable KYB GR2s on Saturday ($18.00 each from Rock Auto - but you must check under the 1800 model to find them).

The small bumps are gone, I still feel big bumps, but it's the overall ride change that I really feel. The steering feels more responsive, the car seems to "sit" better, and cornering has improved considerably. The whole-car experience feels "tighter."

Bushings should be checked first - especially the Lower-A arms! I knew I had good bushings and newer front suspension parts all the way around, so the shocks were my last variable and they made a nice difference for a low price.

You can order the nylon limiting straps new from any of the usual suspects, including Olaf on eBay.

Sorry, this note won't answer your specific question, as my experience with 120's dates from the days of Gabriel Striders (which I liked) so isn't anywhere near current. But I do have a bit of advice anyway -- you should start your project with the basics sound. From your description of the car's ride/handling it sounds like you have bushing problems (especially check the panhard rod for the looseness - and the trailing arm and torque rod bushings for the clunking). Once you've made your decisions on what you want the suspension to do for you and gotten the bushings up to par--hardness for handling-compliance for ride quality--you can then make more intelligent decisions on springing and shocks. Remember it's all a system, so you want the components to work with each other. Have fun.

Also check the ball joints.

John
V-performance.com

Don't forget to check the idler arm bushing too.

My Amazon has lowered progressive springs, poly bushings and Bilstien shocks. If I were going to do it again I think I'd either stick with the standard height springs or use rubber bushings rather than the poly. As it is the car handles and corners very well, but the ride is a bit harsh on not-so-good roads (which is the norm where I live). I'd rather have a little smoother ride.