My drivers door all of a sudden will not lock with the key or plunger. I suspect mechanical failure of some sort in the latch? Anyone solve this one?
Thanks
Dan

I have an S40 2.4i and I just started having the same problem with my driver's side door. Although it is a different model, could this be a similar problem and therefore a similar fix?

All of my other doors will lock and my lights will blink as if the doors and trunk are locked. The lock button cannot be manually pushed down either. I tried removing the key blade and using it to lock the driver's side door and it will not lock. It doesn't matter if I use the remote control or the switch on the door handle.

Mine was some dirt or something jamming the lock mechanism, but I have no idea about the S40. Sorry Dan

Well it works again, the only problem seemed to be a bent rod between the door handle and lock mechanism. It is nice to be able to lock the car again.
I don't recall seeing any other posts with similar problems.
Thanks
Dan

I was thinking a short rod throw caused by the plastic plunger piece. Maybe got screwed down to far. That would limit the throw on the lever of the latch.

Guess it could be the other rod. Since you were suspecting the latch I would have popped it out and washed it out in solvent.

It almost impossible to find wear and its a semi-precision unit. So I write in off to dirt.

If it was binding that may cause the rod to bend. Was there previous damage to the door or latching post?

I read the other post but thought you might try loosening the plunger knob. It me be screwed down to far or cracked. It has happen to me.

Do you have central locking? Will other doors lock/unlock with driver's door key and driver's door plunger? You might want to pull off the driver's door panel to inspect the mechanical linkage from the door lock cylinder to the latch. The plunger also has a mechanical linkage to the latch. The driver's door is the only door with no locking motor. Electrically, a switch wraps around the cylinder and is wired to another switch (long black, thin cylinder) at the bottom of the plunger, thence, wires pass from the door to lock/unlock the other doors and trunk/tailgate. Inspection might reveal a disconnected mechanical linkage. Electrically, the only two points of failure within the door is a bad plunger switch, or the wrap-around switch at the cylinder lock has separated from the plunger or the that switch has failed.

Mike
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'83 245 GLT, '90 760 GLT

to correct in part my last sentence "... , or the wrap-around at the cylinder lock has separated from the cylinder lock ..."

Sorry,
Mike
--
'83 245 GLT, '90 760 GLT