My 240's dust/water protective plates behind the brake rotors have rusted away. Are they very important and are they hard to replace? Thanks. I couldn't find anything using the search engined.

There are two items you will need to replace on each wheel. There is the big one, the one you can see, and there is a smaller one that you won't notice until you get in there. They are both secured by the same four fasteners.

Volvo Part #'s, unless they have been superseded, are 1272469-6 for the big plate and 1272102-3 for the small one.

If the big plate has rusted away, as you say, the smaller one will probably also be.
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'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

Lots of modern cars - some high performance ones too - don't use backing plates any longer. Some that do have scoops built into them to channel air (and road and rain water) directly to the rotor. Considering how "open" modern wheels are, why not expose both sides of the rotor. Thinking of Virgos here.
I had a 740 turbo for a while which had the stupid wheel side vented rotors (Girling) which are notorious for warping. I removed the backing plates and got double the mileage before warping. Eventually I upgraded the damn thing to 940 Jumbo brakes and that fixed it. Still didn't have backing plates.

Hi:

I went to the junk yard on Tuesday and I now have a spare (Driver's Side) that is in good condition (no rust, this is Texas!) and I will be happy to mail it to you AT NO CHARGE.

just send me an email with your mailing address.

John
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If it needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced on a 1990 240, I've probably done it. '90 240DL, 254K looking forward to 300K badge (or sticker??). >>You haven't really worked on a car until you draw blood<< :-}

I replaced one on our 93 wagon when I was in there replacing a strut tube. It's a bit of work, but not bad if you have time. You'll be repacking the bearings so have necessary seals on hand. I'd replace the backing plates rather than go without.
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Thanks for all the help. DougC 1981 242, IPD bars and Turbo wheels, M46 ::: 1993 245, B230 NA L-Block, M47, Turbo bars::::::::::::1984 760, B23FT, M46, waiting to donate engine to 242

I've had several 240s w/ rusted through/ rusted out brake plates. I wouldn't think of replacing them for myself but I have had rotor-warping problems w/ one car and wonder if the missing plate helped that along: if you happen to be braking a lot and then you run through a puddle of water.

But, I'm one who removes the baffle under the engine as step 1 when I buy a car so my advice isn't mainstream here.
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240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars

Hi there,

They are kind of expensive, for what they are and how made. The aftermarket has finally dug in on this one, but still run about $32 a copy

I opted for salvage and found it to be a good use for POR-15 and fiberglass mat.





Purpose? I'm no expert on that. Beside the obvious job of keeping the road out of the brakes, I'm reluctant to change anything that might affect the cooling of the front brakes, especially after reading the stern warning sticker on the air dam.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

It's always darkest before dawn. So if you're going to steal your neighbor's newspaper, that's the time to do it.

Tasca Volvo should have them on their site: getvolvoparts.com.... Drop me a line if you need a part number.

Bottom line is no dust shields will diminish braking efficiency... so you want to replace them with something.

-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

They were put there for I reason, so I'd replace 'em. Same as the belly pan, I hear of guy's driving without one, seems silly to me. However, when I replaced mine on my old wagon it cost me $90 CDN. each side!!! Shortly after the floor rotted out and the car was done. Ha.

Cheers,
Matt

You might find some in a pick and pull, or a full blown salvage yard, but who's to say that they would not be in the same condition. Give your friendly local Volvo Dealership a shot. They should not be too expensive. You need them, since they are what keeps water from being splashed directly on the Calipers and rotors while on the road.