Driving on the interstate yesterday steam started pouring out from under the hood so I immediately pulled over. The temp gauge was all the way to the hot side when I glanced down to check. The engine died as I came to a stop - yea this can't be good. Had the car towed home, started it up to drive from the the street to the drive way so the engine still runs ok. Is it likely there is any engine damage?

I filled it back up with water to find the leak and immediately found the radiator is the problem. I want to replace the coolant pump and hoses under the intake manifold while I am at it. How time consuming is it to remove the intake manifold to get at the hose clamps under there? What has to come off to remove the intake manifold?

I replaced those two hoses on my 1988 780. You don’t need to remove the intake. If you loosen one of the two hose clamps for each of the two hoses (the two easiest) and then remove the water pump, you then have easier access to the remaining two hose clamps. I found the water pump replacement on the V6 much easier than my B230.

I believe your car has an oil cooler. It’s a good time to replace those two hoses (and all other coolant/heater hoses). The oil cooler hoses are located just below the oil filter.
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Michael - Melbourne, Fla 1985 740 460k, 1988 780 Coupe V6 190k, 1992 745 200k

pulling the intake is easy, just 6 bolts hold it to the heads. disconnect the hoses, linkage and wiring. and you WANT to pull the intake because the orings under the y-pipe in the valley need to replaced also. they usually cause problems before the hoses do. good luck, chuck.

I replaced those hoses on a 760GLE once-- I don't remember having to take the intake manifold off. It has been 8-9 years, but it seems to me that I used a combination of stubby flat blade screw drivers, a 7mm socket on a flexible extension, an open end wrench and lots of colorful language...

I think everything will depend on the location of the existing hose clamp drive screws now.

Hopefully it didn't overheat too dramatically-- this aluminum engine has wet cylinder liners that can come unseated when you pull the head(s) and the heads themselves can only be machined slightly, otherwise the timing belt gets sloppy. One problem I had with mine was that because of dissimilar metals, removing steel fasteners from the aluminum block often meant that the block threads came out with the bolts...

Good luck!