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The great news is no oil leaks at all on Inga, the bad news is....... 200 1986

So while we had the little warm up this weekend I borrowed the pressure washer from my buddy and finally cleaned off the driveway. Now Inga has in the past left her mark on the driveway. With oil leaks, power steering rack leaks and even a leak in the rear differential that was fixed by my pro.

It seems all the work this summer has paid off even more than I first realized. Inga has a bone dry belly pan and a dry engine block. The rebuilt rack is also dry and should have done that sooner. There is the little tiny bead of coolant over the exhaust manifold but that evaporates quickly. Thought I still had an oil leak on the rear main based on the stain on the drive, but after pulling in from work on Monday realized there was just one little spot but it was much further back. Looked at the rear of the engine and it was dry. Popped up the rear by the pumpkin and slid under and it is the very rear of the transmission leaking. Read about that being a known problem.

So looks like when attack the TAB's with the hole saw method I may need to also address the tail end of the tranny. New Bearing and gasket for sure, but anything else? And how hard a job is it to pull the drive shaft and change the bearing on the tranny?

If I have to drop the drive shaft, what should I go ahead and change? Center Bearing or something else.

Thanks in advance for your input,

Paul








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    You got a thumbs down for this? 200 1986

    Paul,

    I'm still trying to figure out why someone gave you a TD for your post. Congratulations for making Inga Drool free.

    Bill








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      JUdge JUDY 200 2009

      take a look at some profiles for some guys are wannabe moderators








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        JUdge JUDY 200 2009

        I had a look, and I see what you mean. I can't believe that as helpful as Paul is to everyone, that someone would stoop to that. When I first came on the Brickboard, he and a couple of others were most helpful to me. I'd like to think that I have tried to pass it forward.








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          JUdge JUDY 200 2009

          Like water on a ducks back, just rolls off.

          From my perspective on the post, I now know to not change the housing seal if in comes off in one piece just give it an RTV glaze when putting it back on. You have to take the center cross brace off and take the drive shaft out for more room. Need to go read up at the 700 FAQ (another chain on the same subject), lubricate and not change the center bearing, check and see if the u-joints can be lubricated and if yes do that, and may be a good idea to get a shop to press in the new seal.

          Not seeing the downside here, got good advice and an idea what I am in for. That deserves a thumbs down, I will take that every time.

          Regards,

          Paul












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            ... just to clarify 200 2009

            Chances are slim that the gasket will come off in one piece. If, however, the gasket doesn't have a loose piece or two dangling the RTV should be all you need when replacing the housing.

            Some people disagree with my method of lubricating the center support bearing, but I have had no adverse results from doing so. Do be careful when pulling the plastic cover aside (dental pick)to insert the straw. They can be brittle and a piece broken off would expose the innards to the elements certainly shortening its life.

            Randy








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              ... just to clarify 200 2009

              Hi Randy,

              I've only done one tailshaft bushing, so I can't comment on the chances, but I know mine came off in quite usable condition, and I felt very much unrewarded by the hour or better of aching arms cleaning that good gasket off. It is the pressure of having that brand new one at your side. Don't give in to it (Paul).

              The center bearing was not even in my thoughts when I did the tailshaft repair. Neither was dropping the entire driveshaft, although you know I used to post about screwing a zerk fitting in those u-joints (without dropping the shaft) and forcing some (probably incompatible) grease inside. I've no data to report the effects of that either. Last center bearing I changed, I played with the old one, a 278K experienced one, almost old enough to get served in a bar. The carrier shield crumbled instantly. Maybe what I glean from this is, have one at the ready if you try the squirt technique and it does disintegrate. A drift punch is really all you need to remove and replace. No fancy press.

              I might see another soon, as my youngest called me yesterday to report a high pitched whistling noise, tracking her speed, on the expressway. It is a 91, so it isn't her loose windshield trim!

              PS, Paul, there's another current thread on the bushing replacement with some of my pics in one of the replies. I'll save the bandwidth for now.
              --
              Art Benstein near Baltimore

              "Freedom is not worth having if it does not include the freedom to make mistakes."
              -Mahatma Gandhi








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    The great news is no oil leaks at all on Inga, the bad news is....... 200 1986

    I was able to remove the bushing without the use of a shop press. I did as others have said, and left the old gasket (that stayed on the tranny) alone so that I didn't have to scrape it off while laying under the car. Just used some sealer on it and it has been fine. Make sure you install the new bushing with the hole facing up.
    Charles








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    The great news is no oil leaks at all on Inga, the bad news is....... 200 1986

    Paul,

    Your AW has a bushing (rather than bearing) that wears and the resulting slop trashes the seal.

    There is a good bit of information in the FAQ's on this repair. While I have installed the new bushing myself I usually have my local auto machine shop remove the old bushing and press in the new one.

    You will need to remove the crossmember and support the transmission after taking the driveshaft loose. I remove the driveshaft to have more workroom. This is a great time to install grease fittings on the universal joints if they are the type that has the removable alan head screws (the smallest fittings available will fit fine, but it may require one of the disposable grease guns to get on them once the shaft is reinstalled).

    Once you have the crossmember out and the transmission tilted down it would be a good time to brush down the surrounding area on the underside of the body pan. Better now than your arms doing it later and landing on the exposed tailshaft.

    I find the gasket as the most difficult portion of this job. It seems that most of the gasket usually remains on the transmisson. They are difficult to remove from the case and it is easy to gouge the case. Gasket remover helps but it is a frustrating job in a cramped area. After doing two and taking the time to remove the old gasket from both the transmission and the housing I have taken to just adding a small amount of RTV on the old gasket and reinstalling it. With that method I have never had a leak to address afterwards.

    Personally I have never changed out the center support bearing at this time, but I have lubricated the existing one while I was there (lift the plastic dust cover with a dental pick and insert the straw on a spray grease aerosol).

    Good luck

    Randy







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