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Hey all,
My normally trustworthy 240 wagon is in need of a new alternator. Would this be an okay substitute?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VOLVO-240-740-760-780-940-TURBO-BOSCH-ALTERNATOR-100A_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem290280613422QQitemZ290280613422QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
I know the post says that it is compatible... but it says it also fits a 740 among others. I am a bit leary of commiting to it without knowledgeable input.
How easy is it to replace by onesself?
Thanks,
Justin
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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As RSTARKIE mentioned, If your Alternator is not growling due to bad bearings, Why not just throw in the Regulator.
I'm just guessing but if your '88 has the original Brushes in it...They are probably your problem.
FCPGROTON.COM sells the regulator if you want to price it out.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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A beginner can do this one. You will need two 13mm wrenches or a socket and a wrench. A 10 mm socket, and a 12 mm wrench or socket. Secret is to get two new matched belts and learn how to loosen and tighten belts.
You can use a alternator out of a 740 (100 amp) or any of the ones that fit a 240. I was able to get a lifetime warranty for less than $100 when my alternator locked up a few years back.
Safety first, take the negative terminal off the battery before you do anything else.
Hard learned tip, you loosen and tighten belts by using the 10mm long bolts with everything else loose. You do not pry to tighten, just turn the bolt until the belts are loose and in reverse snug.
Check the condition of the ground wire on the bottom side of the alternator, I would just replace it with a new 16 gauge wire.
Learning how to get the AC compressor belt off used to be my gotcha. But thanks to BB tips and pictures, not a five minute job.
In other words, You can do it.
Regards,
Paul
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Paul,
You mention you have a method for AC belt replacement? Would love to hear that one. Am in the process of replacing all the belts and can't get the 13mm bolt on the compressor loose. Some knucklehead tightened it like it's going out of style. It's not even rusty, just bleeding tight. I nearly stripped the nut last weekend. Got a 6-point socket since, and will try it again.
But good advice is always appreciated.
Cheers,
Boerre
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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The best bet may be to get a heavy duty cutting wheel on a Dremel and slice that nut off there. I do an X cut across the nut and bolt, the take a hardened chisel and bust it off there. Does not take long at all. You can buy a new metric bolt and nuts at places like Lowes and True Value Hardware.
You do know about the hidden nut on the top back side of the compressor? That was my major did not know, well that and the fact that you just tighten the 10mm nut to tighten the belts. Feel along the top back side of the compressor for an oval headed nut. On the back side of that is a 13mm nut that you need to loosen but not take off. You loosen all the 13mm nuts that go through the accessory bushings, then the hidden oval nut. You do not need to remove anything. Then you crank CCW on the long 10mm nut at least an inch or more, and push the alt in towards the block. You tighten the 10mm nut until the belt is tight before you put a wrench on any of the 13mm bolts and nuts when putting it back one. That works for the power steering pump and the two on the Alt also.
Good Luck,
Paul
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Paul,
Just finished this, thanks again for your help. Both compressor nuts were done for. The front one I managed to get off with a little saw and a lot of elbow grease, but the back one wasn't going anywhere. So I ended up buying a dremel and grinding it down. The rest was easy. So now the new belts are on, which is nice. I notices the power steering pump isn't really straight, I need to adjust it somehow. Also noticed the stuck airbox thermostat, and took out the whole assembly. Maybe I'll leave it out...
Regards,
Boerre
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Your power steering pump is not lining up correctly you say.
If there seems to be on an angle in relation to the AC compressor you may need to replace a couple of accessory bushings. After getting soaked with oil and hydraulic fluids, belt pressure, temperature, and time they can deform. There is a metal sleeve in the center of the bushing surrounded by rubber. The rubber can extrude and deform, and the inner sleeve moves off center. That will over time cause belt alignment issues.
Not hard to change, you need a couple of 13mm wrenches and a 10mm. There are two types, rubber and poly. In theory a poly bushing should never have to be replaced. Downside is they cost like $5 each (it seems they are $6.50 now) and the rubber is less than $2. You will get varied support for either version, depends on how much money you want to spend. Should be able to find them online at either of the 2 houses or at a local Euro parts house. For the record I have all poly installed. However I would not go 100% poly if replacing them today. Would use poly under the three tensioner arm mounts and the 2 lower front mounts on the Alternator and AC compressor (5 total). Every where else I would go with new rubber bushings. Oil and tension seems to be the worst enemies of a rubber bushing and those are the spots take the brunt of it. If you want to see what bushing looks like, just click the blue underlined link and it should take you to the ipd page and you can see both versions. Not advocating you get them from ipd, just for reference.
One bushing that is sort of hidden at the end of the three belt adjustment arms. You will find a 13mm bolt and an accessory bushing. The power steering pump has a 13mm nut on the back side of its bolt I think. The force of the belt tension will deform that bushing before any of the others (at least on Inga that was true). That would be the first place I would check if I was replacing just the deformed bushings. By far the worst bushings I found was the ones under the tension arm of the power steering pump and the alternator.
Safety Note: Remove the negative battery terminal before doing any work around the alternator. Touch something to the red wire on the back of the alternator by accident and the sparks will fly. Do that even if you changing the oil filter or working on a motor mount IMOH.
To inspect or replace them you will have to loosen the belts. Remove the 13mm bolt and if it has one the nut off the back. I did not remove the compressor or power steering pump when changing bushings, just moved up out of the way. Make note of how the washers and nuts were before you take them loose. Drive the old bushings out and push the new ones in. Install your parts back on, tension up your belts and you should be done.
Hope this helps,
Paul
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Maybe you can help. AC gone want to bypass compressor but need belt for power steering. Can this be done??
Thanks
Dave
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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It is a 5-year old post.
If the clutch still works on the compressor, no need to bypass. You do not give a year to your particular car or what market you are in but the B230F in the US was never offered in a format you want. Non-AC motors did existing in 85-89 in Canada and in Europe.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Thanks!
No, I did not know about the hidden bolt in the back, it sounds like a tricky place to go, too... Will try this weekend.
Hmmm, dremel and cutting doesn't sound good, esp since I don't have good tools for that. I might end up having to take a little hand saw to it. Or a drill.
Can't wait, cheers,
Boerre
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Did it simply stop charging the battery? If so it might just need a set of brushes; easily soldered in if you remove the regulator assembly.
If you or a friend do not solder you could just replace the regulator/brush assembly. They are available from a number of the online parts suppliers.
While it is possible to replace the regulator assembly with the alternator in place it is usually easiest to remove the alternator to do it.
Randy
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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