Hi Folks,

I've got the cam out and the 8 valve thingy things all labeled in order. Looks like there is some deteriorated rubber bits around the valve springs. Not quite sure, but think the Erling kit I got for the head gasket includes the new rubber bits.

Anyway, I'm having a bear of a time breaking loose the head bolts. I've got a breaker bar and can't budge them.

Any advice for how to get these things un-torqued?

Is it ok to use an air tool impact wrench?

Thanks for the help.

Tom

Why were you taking the head off? It sounds as if you just wanted to do the valve springs and the rubber seals. You can do those without touching the head using the rope trick to support the valve while you compress the spring.

Hi Cliff,

The past couple of weeks I've been posting about my leaking head gasket. My original posts were about tracking down a mysterious coolant leak and by pressurizing the system I was able to trace it back to a small leak on the head gasket on the exhaust side near cylinder #4.

So while I've got the head removed, I'm also going to try and replace the valve seals and hushers.

Thanks,

Tom

I know it's over and done with, but I'll post this anyway. I work for an engine manufacturer and air guns are used for every head removal. They don't use manual breakers at all. That said, I doubt my air tools at home would have enough power to overcome the torque of a headbolt so I'd be on the end of a breaker bar for sure.

Rhys comments are dead on. You'll need a breaker bar and cheater handle. I use 1/2" drive six point 14mm socket, or you can use a 3/8 drive six point impact socket. You'll usually break 3/8" drive six point sockets, including Snap-On. Yes, I've broken the best.
--
john

Yup John, a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 1/2 drive impact wrench socket did the trick!

13

For really tough bolts I take the handle off my 3 tonne floor jack and use that as a breaker bar. I wouldn't use an impact gun doing head bolts. A)it is unlikely you'll get enough torque out of the gun to loosen them and B)if you do get enough torque, you'll have the gun cranked up so high that you'll have no control over it.

I use a 1" black pipe extension on a breaker bar. My good 749 impact wouldn't budge them.

You know that you need to remove in reverse order of the torque sequence? Risk warping if you don't
--
240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars

Thanks guys I'll give it a try again with the breaker bar. I've got an 18" breaker and I'm using another 18" piece of pipe on the end. I'm worried something is going to snap. We'll see how it goes.

Yup, I'm following the Bentley manual instructions, so no problems with the order.

I'll report back later today.

13

What a gorgeous day for doing that. I hope you're outside or at least have the overhead door open.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Never put both feet in your mouth at the same time, because then you won't have a leg to stand on.

Place a long cheater bar, as mentioned previously, on the breaker bar you have now. Loosen no more than 1/4 turn each, in reverse of the tightening order.
I don't advise use of an impact - because it's tough to control the amount of loosening, and also because impact tools lose the "shock" value when the bolt is long like the head bolts. Do it by hand and get the "feel" of it.

Thanks guys! I got them off with a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a pipe on the end!

I'm dropping the head off at the machine shop on Monday morning.

Tom

Greetings,

My favorite tool for head bolts is my 4 foot breaker bar "extension" ,"made" from 3/4 inch rigid conduit. I have broken a couple of heavy duty sockets with it ,
but no head bolts, yet.

No opinion on impact wrench usage.


Good luck with your job.
rcs

Hi,


I have a 24" breakover. For a few bolts I had to climb inside the engine compartment at the junkyard once. They were pretty tight.

I would hesitate to use an air impact wrench, for noo reason I'm aware of other then taboo.

I know Sears sells some large breakovers.


Goatman