93 240

When driving about 20 minutes the instrument panel lights blink all at once, except for the ABS light which cuts on too but not as often as all the others. They stay on until I accelerate. I cleaned the battery contacts, because two weeks I went to wal-mart and they checked the battery while changing the oil, but no real problems, just in case they did something wrong. I got the same symptoms when the battery hadn't made good contact on the negative pole. I clean and tightened it and it worked okay. I went to the store feeling victorious and then it happened again. This baffles me. I don't know what this could be, the battery contacts are there, the car starts fine. I am afraid to drive the car long distances. This just started yesterday while idling in traffic. Any ideas?

Hi there,

Just in case you mean the red warning lights under the instruments, check the small red wire is not loose right in front of the oil filter on the alternator. Also make sure the heavy blue wire at the bottom of the alternator is not broken or loose. Both of those problems will leave you calling a tow.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

The quickest way to double your money is to fold it in half and put it back in your pocket.

Interesting, I did mean the red warning lights. I will check them both, hope it's not raining here in DC today. wish i had jack stands

I just checked all wires are sound. Interesting design issue. When changing my oil myself, I usually undo the negative battery connect.

If the wires at the alternator are soundly connected, you might try to see if your disturbing them suppressed the problem. If not, there are a lot of other possibilities in a long circuit between the battery positive post, through the distribution box, ignition switch, cluster, engine harness, and back to the alternator brushes. It makes sense to visit those you suspect may have been recently affected by service. Here's a generalized drawing that includes the path for the "D+" or alternator pre-excitation circuit. If you can be more specific about exactly which lights do what when, more clues will surface.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Everyone seems normal until you get to know them.

While driving but at a stop light, when coasting, or in non-moving traffic the warring lights save for the ABS light cuts on and flicker, some times the ABS light cut on. To get rid of them i accelerate either by moving or by putting the in N and hitting the gas. either way that clears them. sometimes hitting the brakes clears them, but sometimes that brings on the ABS light. I checked the belts to see if they were slipping I tightened them it was a heavy rain, but Not sure what the cause it. I don't really have loads of cash right now so...maybe Metro-ing it until I can figure this out or take trips close to home. Not sure why it runs good for about 30 minutes then all this starts.

If the lamps are BAT - PARKING - BULB OUT - BRAKE FAIL then the symptoms fit brushes or regulator in the alternator. I don't know how the ABS ties in to the brush or alternator problem, except that it might be an early warning of low voltage.

If not the brushes, the small red wire you checked at the alternator could be damaged where it disappears under the alternator and crank pulley, shorting to ground as the engine moves in its mounts, however I'd think that was less likely in your 93.

Pull out the brush/regulator assembly and inspect the length of the brushes. You can do this without removing the alternator if you have a #2 Phillips screwdriver with an unworn tip. Also, with a flashlight, check through the hole it leaves to see if the alternator slip rings are in good shape. You can spend very little to repair this, if the brushes are just worn. Check out the 7/9 FAQ for more detail, such as length of brushes and how to replace them.

I was trying to connect this with your visit to Walmart, but can't seem to do so.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.

You may have a bad ground behind the cluster...check for loose connections.

You may also have a faulty rheostat switch (upper left that you twist to change the intensity of the instrument lights). They can sometimes be cleaned by aggressively twisting the small knob several times, but more often a simple replacement is required.

To test prior to replacement, you can jump the hot-to-negative on the back of the switch (or disconnect the wires and twist them together) your dash lights should then activate at full intensity. if so, you can elect to leave them that way as an alternative to replacing the switch.

It is very unlikely that your bayonet bulbs have all failed.

Good Luck