As discussed in an earlier thread, I'll be doing my first head gasket replacement any day now, on a '90 244.

I'll also be changing the timing belt as we have no idea how many miles are on the current t-belt. Again, it's my first time doing that job also.

Question:
What's the best way to simultaneously do both jobs? I could do the gasket replacement in full, back to a running engine. But I think the t-belt replacement will be easier if I do it after replacing the head before closing up the valve cover. True?

Also, I need to crack loose the crankshaft pulley bolt first, before removing the head. Because I plan to use the "rope trick" - which only works when the head is in place.

So - my proposed sequence:
Use rope trick to remove crankshaft pulley bolt.
Remove head and get it machined flat or replace as needed.
Reinstall head but without camshaft.
Install t-belt, camshaft and tensioner.
Install valve cover
Tighten crank pulley bolt.
Close up timing belt covers.

Sound right??
Thanks.

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Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, airbox heater upgraded, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, aero front face, quad horns, tach, small clock.

Thank you all for your notes here.

How about the crank position sensor? The car is 1990.
Is it attached to the head or to the block?
I don't need to change it as a shop did that a few short years ago.

I'm unclear on whether I need to pay any attention to it when I pull the head.

Thanks.
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Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, airbox heater upgraded, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, aero front face, quad horns, tach, small clock.

It is not in the mix unless disconnecting it would somehow make things easier. It is attached at the top of the bellhousing.

EDIT: It is however the perfect time to change out the crank position sensor.

Randy

When I did this on a '91, the hardest part was breaking loose the head bolts. I broke a 6 point Snap-On Socket and a breaker bar before I was done.

At 225k miles, I had good compression and no evidence of trouble, other than the classic #3 cyl passenger side water leak, so I cleaned the head and put it back on. No valve work; didn't even check it for flatness. That was 50k miles ago and no problems.

I like the suggestion to make your own marks on the belt and pulleys. I always struggle to find the marks, and the TDC mark for the bottom pulley is on a plastic cover that is not in place when you are installing the belt, so home-applied marks is a great idea.

Before you remove the belt, don't forget to pull back the tensioner and stick a large nail or small bolt through the hole to keep the spring compressed while you are working. It will be a bear to compress that spring to reassemble the tensioner if you don't.

For loosening the lower pulley, I put a cheater on my breaker bar and a wood block to protect the A/C lines under the frame on the passenger side, and hit the starter to loosen the bolt. I have 5-speeds so to tighten the bolt, I have someone stand on the brake. When the clutch slips, I figure that the torque is just about right.

Also ditto on the suggestions to replace heater hoses and clean the oil separator box and all vacuum passages while the head is off. If you have an EGR, now is a good time to clean that out, and to maybe replace the temperature sensor for the fuel injection system (the rear one that is hidden behind the EGR when the head is in place).

I always mark the old timing belt before I remove it.

After loosening the crank pulley (rope trick) set the engine up at TDC on the compression stroke. Remove the belt covers and mark the belt with paint or finger nail polish at two points; the index mark on the cam cogged wheel, the index mark on the intermediate cogged wheel.

Since there is no mark on the crank pulley you will need to make one. Paint an index mark on the cogged wheel and an index mark on the belt directly beside it (you need to do this where the belt is actually engaged with the pulley).

With these three points marked on the belt and the cogged wheels you could remove and replace the belt without any question as to it being right on the money.

Use the old belt to determine the same points on the front edge of the new belt. Mark each point on the new belt.

It is now nearly impossible to install the belt incorrectly. If something should move and it would be off a cog or two you can immediately see that and correct it. Of course this reinstall is happening after you remove and reinstall the head.

Additional tips on head removal and replacement:

1. Exhaust manifold nuts can be difficult sometimes. I think I would take the time prior to starting the major work to spray some PB Blaster on these nuts and slowly work them loose- back and forth if necessary with additional Blaster. Let the ones that seem too tight soak longer. You might add a little vibration to the face of the nut by placing a screwdriver on the face and tapping it with a hammer.

2. Check before you start to see if you have all the correct wrenches, universals and extensions necessary to get at and remove the the 13mm intake manifold bolts. A couple of them limited access.

3. I use a long breaker bar and a "snapping" action to break the head bolts loose.

4. I use a die grinder set up with a rotary wire brush to clean the top of the block- quick and easy (don't forget your safety glasses- a trip to the emergency room to have a wire removed from your eyeball significantly increases the time necessary to change out a head gasket).

5. Changing the heater hoses? Now is the time. Also great access to the oil separator.

6. I always use Elring headgasket sets. Good stuff and no failures yet even on our turbo cars.

I have sent you an email with a text file attached that talks about rehabbing a red block head. Let me know if you do not receive it.

Good luck and have fun.

Randy

If you aren't doing any valve work on the head check the valve clearance before disassembly so you can make the proper corrections with shim discs on reassembly. If you are planning to have a valve job done you'll need to take your measurements after the work is done. Check the clearance without the "hushers" installed, choose the correct shims and then lift the bucket tappets out to install the "hushers". -- Dave

I haven't done a Head Gasket yet but keep in mind this is a non interference engine so spinning the Cam around while the Head is on the Engine is OK to do.
I would, Proceed as though I'm doing the Timing Belt. You have to get the belt off to get head off. I line up the Timing marks before taking the Belt off just to make the assembly a bit quicker. Get the Head work done and fully reassembled, Install back on the Engine. Then just line up the Marks as normal and put the Belt on.

http://www.threefattigers.com/Protocore/Volvo/TimingMarks.htm
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Bruce,

Definitely use the rope/yarn trick, turn the crank as far as you can and then pop the harmonic balancer/crank pully off first. Then cut the T-belt with a knife to save time. Follow with your outlined procedure and all will be good. This is the true beauty of a non-interference engine!

Take the time and a few bucks to replace all front seals on the block, ie. cam, intermediate, and crank. A new factory belt tensioner would be a great idea as well... although the one on our 245 has 276K on it... that will be corrected in another 10K or so.

By the way, I'm glad to see that after all these years, that you are digging into the belly of the beast! I have always respected and appreciated your posts... Thank you!

jorrell
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!