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I bought this 89 volvo 240, so far I have almost doubled the price of the car in the 2 months that I have owned it. It seems to be at least Idling good now and running good but has no real power to speak of when I accelerate. It seems to be worst after the engine is warm. I have replaced the fuel fiter, the orings on the injectors, tested the fuel pressure looks to manual specs. I replaced plus, and rotor and cap, and ohm tested plug wires, replaced timing belt and tensioner. It would run some what good for a while than the idle would get all funny and the engine would lack power,and then I pulled the spark plugs out and # 3 plug looked like it had black carbon all over it the other ones did not. I took the air intake hose off and found oil in the hose, I looked at the oil trap unit and found the drain hose in the engine block colapsed and the bottom 4 inches or so of the hose in the oil pan, so I replaced the oil trap and all the hoses.I have replaced temp gauge sensor and engine coolent temp sensor. I have replaced rpm sensor that mounts above flywheel. I have removed the intake manifold and throttle body and cleaned. I had replaced the air intake hose, checked the air filter box to make sure it workes right, and it does when it heats up. compression test showed all 4 around 160 psi.I have back probed the mass air sensor and the oxygen sensor, just looking for voltage numbers moving and there was, took the connector off the ECM to see if the temp sensor was reading to the connector and it was. The car seems to idle good now and run good but lacks power and very slow to accelerate. Tested the throttle switch and it meters like the manual says. The only codes I have had are 231, and 311. But no codes lately. My daughter owns a 91 240 and it has a lot of get up and go. I am not sure where to go any more. I have worked on this car 2 months solid and can not find the reason for its poor throttle response. I must be over looking some thing. I would sure appreciate any advice any one could offer. I was taken to the cleaners on this car, I bought it from a dealer and the guy knew exactly how to hide stuff and was a fast talker, I sent a week talking to him on the phone before I made my 500 mile trip to pick up the so called pursteen vehicle.Its been a night mare ever since, I have to much invested now to give up. I love my daughters car, I wish they still built vehicles like this today, they are a joy to work on compared to todays cars.
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Hello AC,
Although codes 231 and 311 seem kind of odd for the symptoms you've explained,
I'd recheck the AMM.
Just for peace of mind inasmuch as I believe electrical tests of the AMM can be inconclusive, I would swap out your AMM with your daughter's or a good spare and see if that makes a difference. The connector can also prove to be a problem, so you may want to clean that up.
Sounds like you've gone the route. I wish you the best of luck. I think you're close.
Marty Wolfson
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Seems the camshaft timing isn't right. I would double check the timing belt.
My engine had poor performance. Compression and timing checked good. Turned out to be a bad cat.
--
1986 Volvo 245
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Mothers car had similar problems, broken cat would block the exhaust, move a little and open up again/ check for exhaust at tail pipe and shake the cat converter for rattling pieces of matrix.
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How's the air filter look? I've seen a clogged air filter bring a 240 to it's knees. Also, it seldom contibutes to a noticeable power loss, but check the airbox thermostat to make sure it isn't feeding the engine super-heated air constantly.
BTW, I applaud you for all the work. You've taken care of a LOT of nasty jobs already.
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When I got my '91 245 4 years ago it ran perfectly but was real slow to accelerate, slower than my wifes older 240. I modified the air intake box and replaced the timing belt at the same time. Voila! If a belt is off a tooth or so ....
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Check the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator for gas odor, if you see it or smell it replace the regulator. If you are really down on power is there a chance the timing belt is off a tooth or two?
You might look at the injector in the cylinder with all the carbon on the plug. A plugged cat converter or muffler?
Dan
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Thanks for all the ideas that were offered, but so far none of them seem to be the answer. I have a new air filter and air duct, I double checked the new timing belt I put in and I used a square just to be positive that they all align with all three marks and they did. I drilled a hole in my header pipe just before the cat. convertor and installed a back pressure tester thats all good. I do notice a little oil in my air intake duct going into the throttle body, not alot but there is some, I dont think this is normal. The car seems to run fine I got 20 miles per gallon last week(mostly highway). Then when the car gets warm it seems to lack power and when I accelerate the throttle response is not the greatist. I know the mass air flow sensor works, and I cleaned it with some mass air spray cleaner, but I cant help and wonder if it works well? I know my intake manifold is totally clean, and so is my throttle body.It acts like a small vacuum leak but I have all new hoses, intake and throttle body gaskets, fuel injector orings, and it measures 17 to 19 inches of vacuum, the same as my daughters 91 volvo 240, that runs awsome. I am kind of running out of ideas, I dont want to blame the injectors, I built a test station using water instead of gas and went up to almost a 100 psi and it held with out any leaks, and all fired with the same spray pattern when I electrically triggered them.I also had the cold start injector and the whole fuel rail system hooked up at this time. I keep thinking vacuum leak but seem to disprove myself every time, or possiably an emission control item that is not working very well, but cant prove it, and those parts are in the hundreds of dollars a piece, and have been burned by the ebay used so called bargains. I know the responses I got earler people all seem to be thinking all the same things I was, but I double and triple checked to be sure. Any ideas would be appreciated!
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posted by
someone claiming to be 245DogWaggin at work
on
Tue Apr 21 05:16 CST 2009 [ RELATED]
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not sure if anyone suggested this or if you've tried this already... but you had mentioned your voltage tests of the AMM but had still wondered if it worked correctly...have you tried swapping your daugher's 91 AMM for the one in your 89? Worth a shot.
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The timing marks on the intermediate shaft is hard to see. At TDC the tick mark on the distributor body lines up with the rotor pointing to #1 plug.
Dan
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posted by
someone claiming to be sdewolfe at work
on
Mon Apr 20 12:32 CST 2009 [ RELATED]
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Have you checked for dragging brakes?
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I posted this same question about my old 245 five times, and never got any responses.
Anyway, I had some similar problems on a 244 I just bought. My in tank pump was dead in the water, and that was causing a lot of my problems with rough idle, poor aceleration etc. I also did most of the things that you have done, and some more. Make sure thatthe intank pump is running. You can listen at the fuel filler, or open the trunk and listen down by the fuel sender access hole. There is also a trick of removing a fuse(#6?) and making sure the pump runs by jumping power from the left of 4,5,6 or 7 to the right of #6 I think. Maybe someone else can confirm.
Mine idled like crap, and the main pump was noisy. It also had a weird pop,poping exhaust note.
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sorry double post read one below, how do you erase these things?
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This won't solve your problem but once I had a airbox thermostat go bad on me and once I rigged the thing to be open for air coming in the front I had enough increase in power to notice while driving on the highway at 70-80mph. I don't remember reading that as something you switched out. Suspension and good tires make a big difference too. To get real power everything needs to be optimal. Allowing the engine to breath goes beyond the flame trap and included the intake and "outtake". Check for leaks at the connection where the exhaust manifold connects to the header. Sometimes its small enough not to notice. Before the engine gets too hot move your hand around it and feel for exhaust being forced out small areas. A double gasket has been advised on that part.
Its a real challenge to get it all nailed down without something loosening or changing. A balancing act of sorts but I think it has to be possible to get it all in sync and running like newish, don't know I'm somewhere mid mountain.
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