Hi,

I found a lot of play in my upper column u-joint, and I want to replace it. How do I go about this?

Thanks!

Ari

Are you sure there's play?

When the steering lock is engaged, it can make it feel like the upper U-joint is bad when you jiggle it back and forth.

The upper U-joint sure felt bad in the 240 under the above condition, but it was only the lower U-joint that was bad.

-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

I base my assertion on having felt the u-joint with my hand, squeezing it in different directions. I could replicate the sound and 'feel' that I have experienced in my steering wheel, by pushing the u-joint to and fro in my hand. More than that, I could feel the upper portion of the joint shift, while the rest of the column stayed rigid. The only other, very slight, play in the column is where it interfaces with the rack, and my intuition tells me that the rack itself is where that looseness lies.

Ari

You can certainly do this by removing the rack, but probably also by leaving the rack in place and:
-loosening the bolts on both upper and lower u-joints
-using an offset screwdriver to open up the slot on the lower joint
-slipping the lower joint off
-pulling the shaft and upper joint out.

Replace the upper joint and reverse for installation. Access is tough: raise the front end (ramps or stands) and remove the belly pan. You can get to the bolts by rotating the steering wheel slightly.
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See the 700/900 FAQ at the drop-down menu above right.

Hello Steve:

Rule308 posted some time ago that his preferred method for opening up the slot on the steering u-joints was to thread in a machine screw. I tried it a while back and it did the trick effortlessly.

A local indy told me he uses an air impact hammer to drive the lower joint upward after unbolting. Clearly it is wise to de-activate the airbag before doing this.

Do you have a link to the post, or can you explain further? Thanks!

Ari

Remove the retaining clip (if there is one), remove the nut and tap the bolt out, then drive a screw into the space to spread it out to make it easier to remove it.

Good luck!

From looking in Haynes, it appears that there is a clamp nut on each side of the upper shaft universal joint. By removing these, would I free the joint from the column?

Thanks,

Ari

With BOTH u-joints sufficiently loosened — per screw method, plus wire brushing and oiling shaft splines — the shaft is moved (maybe "driven") upward to free the lower joint, then swung aside and moved down to free the upper joint.

Then the shaft and both joints are free to do whatever is needed at the bench.

NOTE that each joint fits the shaft in only one position. Pay attention to steering wheel orientation when shaft is separated and removed, to aid in reinstalling.

--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

This probably does work in most situations. Though I faced the worst case on the 1990 240 from salty Boston.

The lower U-joint was completely fused to the steering shaft. I tried *everything*. Screws (even a lag bolt!), oil, blunt force, fire, etc. wouldn't budge it. I wound up having to cut the U-joint in half (thank gawd it's soft aluminum!). Banged one half off the steering rack with a lot of effort from a BFH, and then used a puller on the other half to yank it off the steering shaft. It was an easy thousand pounds of force on there. I really had to wail on it with the puller.

The upper U-joint was equally fused. That just sucked. :-)

-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

Hi,


You must free the rack or column to obtain the lateral play necessary to remove the shaft.


Goatman

Goatman is probably correct: I just changed racks and it would be very, very tight trying to extract the shaft without dropping the rack. You can probably just remove the hoses (drip, drip!) and the two big rack bolts, drop the rack enough to extract the shaft, replace and reinstall. If you can't get the clearance then remove the left front outer tie rod end from the rack and drop it further.
--
See the 700/900 FAQ at the drop-down menu above right.