Hey Looks like i have a leaking water pump, so im gonna try to tackle this myself, i have some questions,
1. Is there a good guide with step by step?
2. Should i replace any bolts or nuts or anything else, that are not included in the water pump purchase?
3. What tools will i need to make this job a snap?

Thanks Y'all
Wes

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1990 740GL 186000mi 'The Bag Lady' 1991 240 235000mi 'KGB car' Visit My Volvo-Page www.wesleytyler.com/volvo

One final note. Make sure you prop up the top part of the pump before tightening, otherwise the top of it will not seal properly and it will leak. It will LOOK like it's in nice and snug once you bolt it down (not too tightly of course) but once you dump anti-freeze in there it will come right out the top of pump. And put your water in first, that way if you've done it wrong you won't waste precious anti-freeze once you pour it into the Brik. And keep your anti-freeze pan underneath the car just in case you blow it. I've done this job before quite badly and learned several painful lessons, the first being don't rush the job, and the second to make sure to prop up the water pump either using a hammer handle as a crowbar for leverage or with 2 by 4 sticking up from a floor jack below, putting pressure onto the water pump from below. Good luck. Cuddy

Good tips so far! This is the first DIY job I ever did on my cars!

Get a set of Craftsman tools. They have a nice set for about $60 with 3/8" and 1/4" drive ratchets and 6-point sockets. Also get a set of 6-pt metric combination wrenches ($20). You'll be well equipped to tackle 90% of what maintenance the 240 asks for.

I like using the Volvo brand pump because it comes with new fan studs and nuts, but the Hepu will be OK. Though I'd still recommend getting new studs and nuts.

I specifically use crappy Asian-made single edge razor blades (because they're soft, and can't possibly damage anything) to scrape the old gasket off the block, and *carefully* the under side of the head. I'll spend a very long time on this step. Then use a wet paper towel to wipe it clean. A quick scrub on the end of the heater pipe with a soft scrubbie to get it clean.

Give yourself a weekend to do this (won't take anywhere near that long, but you'll be more relaxed), and take your time. It's really a rewarding job to DIY.

Good luck!

-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

Also I beleive there is a small water feed tube behind/side of pump,can't remember I'm at work right now but make sure the o-ring goes on straight and lines up correctly in the pump.Otherwise you will have a leak at that connection and will need a new o-ring.You may want to get an extra o-ring just in case.Been there done that!

It's not an O-ring, it's a rubber sleeve. The trick is to half-install it over the end of the pipe, with the unstretched end projecting. Then locate that in the pump and press fully together. That way both ends seat properly without risk of getting distorted or folded back.

10mm socket and a 6 point wrench for the Fan. Is all that holds the Waterpump on. Of course you need the 12 and 13mm tools to get the Fan Belts off first.

Go easy loosening and retightening all the hardware holding the Pump on.
It's small stuff don't crank don on them, you'll snap them for sure.
For reference. 6 pieces of hardware hold the pump on. 2 nuts and 4 bolts.

I had a little problem wiggling it by the Timing Cover, It went easy enough but make sure the Pump is flush with the Engine Block and not stepped up on the Timing Cover.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Basically the same procedure as for the 700/900 cars, except for possibly some difference in the accessary belts/pulleys. Read this for 700/900 FAQs:

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Cooling.htm#Water_Pump

Step #13 is critical. It is a bit counter intuitive how the upper o-ring seal is made. I missed that step the first time I did a Volvo water pump replacement. Argh, I hate redoing work I've just done wrong :(.