ok. I think I may have multiple things going on. These problems are intermittent. Occasional rough idle and will stall sometimes. Other times idle is ok and doesn't stall. While driving, will loose power with partial acceleration, and I have to mash the throttle to get power back. I get two codes: Jetronic LH2.4 code 2-2-3 (fault in signal for air control valve). and EZ-116K code 2-1-4 (speed sender signal missing or sender faulty)

Also, I noticed one the power was robbed right after a hard right turn.. but this could be coincidental. I'm thinking of checking the in tank pre-pump, the fuel pump relays/fuses, the air control valve (can it be cleaned?), and the wire described below.

I noticed that there's a wire that seems to come up from the flywheel area, I think this might be the speed sender wire. some of the insulation has come off of this wire and it's showing a blue cellophane like material as well as what looks like aluminum foil shielding. (I DO NOT have the older car that had all the disintegrating wire harness problem, that wire is the only one that has issues). Any ideas welcome, thanks.

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1991 white 240 auto

(I DO NOT have the older car that had all the disintegrating wire harness problem, that wire is the only one that has issues).


This Crank Positioning Sensor Wire, coming up from the Flywheel area, has insulation tearing issues, All years.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/3396/nm/1989_1993_Volvo_240_Engine_Speed_Sensor_Impulse_Sensor/category_id/116

You may want to pull the connector off the AMM and make sure All the contacts look clean and OK.

"Air Control valve" are you you refering to the AMM which is located at teh end of the accordian looking hose from the throttle body OR the Idle Control Valve that is located under the intake manifold?
I would suggest cleaning the Idle control valve but I will not clean my AMM after Mine failed one week after cleaning it. coincidence? maybe but I'm gun shy.



--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Thanks for the reference to fcp. I will probably order one, but I may try wrapping it with electrical tape to see if that does the trick, first.

alla:





Air control valve is the term haynes uses for that code. I'm assuming they mean the idle control valve. I will clean that and leave the AMM alone.

Will report back.

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1991 white 240 auto

The CPS is a 10mm sized Bolt head.
A 12" extension with a Swivel 10mm socket is the ticket for this.
On your '91; I believe they moved the Air conditioning to the back so you cannot easily wrap your arm under the exhaust manifold to get a wrench on that bolt.

Do a Search on 'Crank positioning Sensor'. There is lots of warnings on easing that sensor out of its mount. If the mount breaks, The Trani has to come down to replace it.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Hi there,

I'm not sure what else you may need, but that 214 and the blue guts showing in the wire means you need to change the crank sensor. I ignored an intermittent power loss (mulling it over in my head instead of acting) and 20 miles later the sensor needed changing on the side of the road. A 91. Code 214 from pin 6.

The 223 from the fuel side might just go away once you've got reliable spark after changing the CPS and briefly pull fuse #6 to reset the trim. If not, I'd look at the connector on the IAC motor before doing anything more drastic.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

A chicken crossing the road is poultry in motion.

Update:

The air hose going from the bottom of the idle control valve to downstream the throttle is cracked. Not sure if it happend when I removed it or it was like that, but need to replace that in any case. different diameter at each end, any idea of what to use to replace, or does it need to be OEM part?


Also: I can see the bolt that holds the CPS in place. What the $*&#@ do you use to get in there? Long socket?


OK, I found this elsewhere on the board:

I had occasional hard starting, and eliminated virtrualy everything else step by step. Finally I replaced the CPS - the engine was transformed. They do get old, and so does the wiring leading to it. If it is getting on a bit (mine was 10 years and 300,000 miles old) replace it - they don't cost much.
Spray WD40 etc over the bolts and leave for several days.
Loosen the bolt. It is hard to get at - you need a small socket set with a flexible drive.
Try waggling the sensor. You can tell before you have got the bolt out whether the sensor is going to be seized in. If it won't budge, maybe think again. If it comes free - mine was loose- take it out.
For easier access you could drop the gearbox mounting cross member, but I managed it with nimble fingers.
Don't believe people who say they either work or not. They get old, tired and erratic, mostly in cold starting or sometimes when very hot.


--
1991 white 240 auto

What the $*&#@ do you use to get in there? Long socket?

Having changed several on 89 and 90 cars, I wondered what all the swearing on the board was about - reports some went in from below, etc. Then, last month, I went after the one on the 91, and learned.

In the 91 and up, the AC piping is right where your left elbow needs to be against the firewall to use a box end wrench on that bolt. Laying on the fender helped.

From the top, about 10" of extension, and some wobble makes it possible. Your main objective is to not break the bracket, and secondary, not drop the bolt. A bit of something jammed in the socket helps to put the bolt back in.

Taping the cable sheath won't buy you any time. But taping up that IAC hose should, until you can get to a junkyard or dealer.









91-93 A/C in the way



89-90 clear sailing


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Show me a piano falling down a mine shaft, and I'll show you A-flat minor.

After two soaks w/PB Blaster and two weeks' time, I really hope I can get this dadblanged thing unstuck today. Bolt wouldn't loosen the first time and I'm really paranoid about breaking it. There's no insulation damage but I suspect the CPS is the cause of very occasional hard start or hot stall with restart after 20 minutes I've experienced twice in the past year.

Also found that a 3-D-cell Mag Lite shoved into the works on the intake side lights up the area really well.

If there is no insulation damage or a way for water moisture to get into the sensor it is fine, leave it alone. Another blast of PB Blaster for the future won't hurt.
The hard start may be loose dirty fuses at 4 and 6 of the fuel pump relay. Your hot stall problem sounds like it could be the power stage ignition amplifier.
Dan

Wow, what great post and pics!!! Yeah, I wish I'd changed it when I replaced my a/c compressor and reciever/dryer. Could have done it when that area was clear. I'll use some pb blaster and go very eaay on the bolt so the bracket doesn't crack. Must be pretty weak metal for it to break that easily.

Thanks for the tips and I'll post back when I'm all done.

Cheers.
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1991 white 240 auto

Thanks. There's nothing in my haynes about the CPS. I have a feeling that sender is a bear to get too. Will give it a shot and maybe try to re-wrap the wire before replacing it... but I'm probably asking for it:

Kinda like this guy: :-)




Will also clean out idle control valve and check connections on that and the AMM.

thanks!
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1991 white 240 auto