Well it has been a chilly summer, but not in my 95 960. The air died and I understand that the A/C clutch is toast.

I have to decide whether to replace the clutch and compressor, or just the clutch, and whether to buy used, rebuilt, or new. New clutch & compressor is about $599, $360 clutch alone, and $300 to install. Any ideas here, and where to go for them?

If I do this I am assuming I need to do a full evac and recharge. Is it a good idea to replace the receiver/dryer and orifice valve at the same time? Trying to decide best course of action.

Had the entire system pressurized and tested with a sniffer. The evaporator and compressor are leaking heavily. Condenser, pressostats, and aluminum lines seem fine. I have been quoted 1800 to repair all as follows New Sanden compressor (480), New Nissens evaporator (388), receiver dryer/accumulator (68) plus 584 labour to install, charge, o rings, oil, rf 134 etc.

This is a lot, but part by part it is pretty reasonable. Any tips on how to save or to strengthen system appreciated.

A 960 AC clutch failure can be easily misdiagnosed. Do not know about 95 but I do know that on a 97 there are 2 cut out switches at the compressor in series with the clutch 12V supply. Either one going bad can appear to be a clutch failure to an inexperienced, stupid or dishonest mechanic. The clutch is controlled directly by a relay which some "mechanics" don't even know about.

Have you jumped 12V directly to the clutch as a test?
Second opinion obtained?
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David Hunter

Thanks for the reply and sorry for the delay. I was away on vacation.

The clutch was diagnosed by a good Volvo mechanic, I trust him but yes anyone can misdiagnose this issue. He said it appears that a part of the clutch has come off. It still spins and the serpentine belt moves, but it does not seem to engage the compressor. It was not cycling, but that could be because it is broken, or because of low pressure.

Where are the switches located and what is the approximate cost?? Are they easy to replace?

The switches are in series with the 12V supply to the clutch, right on the compressor. One is for overpressure and one is for temperature, they vary depending which compressor you have, some have both, some only one. Do not replace anything until you know what is bad. A normal diagnostic procedure in isolating this fault is to jumper 12V directly to the clutch thereby bypassing the switches.
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David Hunter

I took the 960 to an indenepdent and highly recommended a/c shop that does BMW's and Volvo's. They took a look at the clutch and confirmed that the clutch is toast. I have found a rebuilt OEM clutch/compressor assembly for $468, plus a core deposit. It is estimated to be about $300 labour to replace.

Once it is in, I plan to have the system evacuated and tested for leaks using a sniffer. Is the sniffer more reliable than the green dye and uv light?Is it wise to replace the accumulator/receiver dryer as well as the orifice valve, or just wait for the leak test?

Hello, Always replace the dryer and oriface. I have bought compressors from NJ company for 249 with shipping. so far it has worked great. I now use the variAble orifave tube with better results in my 960. 23.99 from
FCP Groton. I am looking for the info on the compressor. Will post when I have it. Pauli

Thanks, much appreciated. I have a VOV there now, not sure whee to get a local compressor. Is Volvo compressor better?