I posted a few days ago and didn't make my self clear.

I have new springs to install, and installed my new shocks 6 months ago.

The FAQ says to jack up the car, remove the shocks, disconnect the anti-sway bar, and then to the springs.

Do I have to do all that, or can I just jack up the car, unbolt the spring retainer, and swap them out easy peasey?

I don't see the point in doing anything more than taking the pressure off the springs by jacking up the car. How do I know how high is just right?

Thanks,
Will
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

Hey everyone, I just finished my springs two nights ago.

I lifted both sides, undid the shock bolts, and away I went. If you lift both sides, there's no need to mess with the sway bar at all.

I found that not only were the old springs a few millimeters shorter than the new ones, but there was a difference SIDE to SIDE!
Also, the new springs have 9 coils, where the old ones have 8. They're standard height springs from fcp groton, and now my rear suspension feels more solid and healthy than ever.

Thanks for the help, and I wish I had replaced them at the same time as the shocks.

-Will


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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

Just replaced the rear Springs in my 740 on Saturday.
I did one side at a time.
I did the following;
Loosened wheel nuts(not removed).
Jacked up the rear axle, to a good working height, Put Axle stand under body jack point.
Removed wheel nuts and wheel.
Removed bottom bolt(and nut) from shock.
Undid and removed spring retaining stud with a long extension & socket.
Lowered axle down as far as it would go, the body should be resting securely on the Axle stand. As long as you have the body height right..
The Spring should now be loose enough to maneuver out.
Fit top and bottom fittings to new spring. Thats the rubber bits.
Reassembly is just a reverse of the disassembly process.

You might have to carefully clamp the stud in a pair of vice grips on the shank (the unthreaded bit) and using a spanner undo the nut till its almost but not quite at the end of the stud, to help with the reassembly. When you do it up the stud will seat into the body first, then the nut will run down the stud and tighten up on the assembly.

I managed to knock the job over both sides in about 1.5 hours. No Drama.
Just work safe!

Thanks for the write-up, that's useful.

How did you remove the stud? Entirely with the vice grips, or some sort of double-nut setup? It sounds like it just came right out and cooperated.

Also, what's your guess as to how high you lifted the frame?

Thanks,
Will
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

The shock is "shorter" than the spring, and keeps the spring under tension... so you have to remove the lower shock bolt (which happens to be one of the sway bar bolts)... and you need to remove the sway bar so you can manipulate each side independently.

Once the lower shock bolts are out, there's just the two nuts holding the sway bar on...

-Ryan

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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

That's exactly what I needed :D thanks

Happy bricking,
Will
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond