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Hi all,
A week after doing all the belts in my car, I noticed some squealing. And then it got worse. I took everything apart again and determined that it was probably the AC belt.
The belt looked fine when I changed everything, so I kept it, but lost track of the shim count when I disassembled it. When I put it back, I left one shim outside and the rest inside, making a big gap.
Since I got some squealing, I decided this must be wrong. But when adjusting them, and eyeballing it, it didn't seem right until most of shims were on the outside.
Belt tension is pretty taught, but there is a few mm's of give. How tight is too tight? If the belt snaps I lose power steering too right? How bad is this?
Car sounds a lot better now.
Thanks!
Jesse
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I would like to say first tht R-12 does not wear outand its clear. You are seeing more gas as bubbles in the line than condensed liquid. You maybe a little low or it's just cycled on.
That shimming the pulley wider is a pain. You want the belt tight enough by the rule of thumb! Using your thumb to depress the belt down midway. About the thickness of the belt or more.
Pressure enough to mash some blood out of the skin and know there is a solid push back of resistance. No upper body weight, arm strength or heels up in the air! Thumb and wrist only leverage only, please!
They also make inexpensive belt tension gauges. Maybe like hens teeth to find along with a chart. Most belt manufactures offer something. They can hook you up with one.
Now that you been taught more. You'll be able to get your belt correctly TAUT! I likes! Tightened, better anyway.
I think that you may want to update to a A/C and P/S bracket off an '84 or higher years. FYI. They did away shims. Just in case you haven't work on a newer model.
Phil
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"Now that you been taught more. You'll be able to get your belt correctly TAUT! I likes! Tightened, better anyway."
Haha! You corrected the English major. :-) It happens sometimes!
Based on what you say, it sounds like my belt is at the perfect tightness.
I'll have to look for a new pulley. My '88 245DL was much easier. Not sure if that uses the same pulley as the 83-84 you mentioned.
So what should I do about my R12. Have it charged? Is that possible? The air doesn't blow out all that cold.
Thanks!
Jesse
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Gee! I would not have ever guessed!
If you knew how much my wife has said. "When you pronounce some words you hurt my ears". You would have not even gone there.
Besides, depnding on what computer I 'm on. I wear a dictionary on my sleeve!
As far as the bubbles. You have lost some refrigerant. If it has been a rather long time since you had it charged it could be a leak due to molecular seepage through the hoses. They are a synthetic flexible material after all.
If this is the case then adding to top it off is OK.
Otherwise you should always be on the outlook for a leak. Find it first then add. Look at fittings to see a trace light oil residue. You want a sealed up system to keep it in and other stuff out.
Getting refrigerant may pose a problem. It may be still around from recyclers. If not, one will take it from you, for resale for sure. They may have connections in their circles.
I've been retired for a few years but I know there are some manufactures claiming theirs works as good as the R-134 revised A.
There were compatible replacements that then were considered "drop in". They require no extreme conversion like those in the begining of the change over.
A 10% loss of efficiency is better than a system down 50% in capacity.
It's a can do thing. That luckly, I don't have to look into yet.
Phil
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Thanks Phil,
Don't know too much about the system. I just bought the car last week. :-)
I live in New England though, so the AC system wont be a priority for a while. I just think it's neat when things like the AC work on 27 year old cars.
Jesse
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Too much tension will cause stress on the water pump and alternator bearings causing them to fail prematurely. The Water pump would probably go first.
You'll note there are two belts. They provide more gripping area. This is so you can ease up on the tension and still get both the alt and the water pump, to provide juice under less stress.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.
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Trev,
You mean too much tension on the AC belt will affect the tension of the other belts? I had never thought of that..
The tension that I have on the AC belt now allows for a few millimeters of deflection, and enables me to just barely rotate the belt 90 degree so that I can see its side. Think that's too tight?
I'm pretty happy with the tension on the alt/water pump belts.
Thanks!
Jesse
'88 245DL, m47
'82 242DL, m46
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I'm going to assume (and hopefully clarify) here that you've got a belt that runs from the crank over to the A/C compressor, and then a belt that runs from the AC compressor up to the power steering pump. Is this correct?
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I misread the subject line. I'd just finished reading about a cooling system problem and remained thinking about those belts.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.
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No worries my friend. If the world was a perfect place I wouldn't be here!
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That being the case, I have a hard time seeing that having that AC belt tight would affect the other belts for other accessories. Sounds like that part of the exercise is under control, anyway.
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This is one of those judgement calls that drives you nuts! If you've got a little play in the belt when you push gently on it, and it doesn'r squeak, you are good to go. A broken power steering belt normally won't be catastrophic driving. You'll feel it immediately, and the the Jack Armstrong workout portion of the ride begins. If your AC doesn't work, IPD sells a kit to bypass the AC monkey motion altogether for about $40.00.
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Thanks Benski!
It's got just a slight amount of play. I just drove it about 250 miles with no problems so it seems good.
There is freon in the AC system - I can see it in the little window - but I think it's past its useful life. It's R12 so I guess I wont be refilling it anytime soon. :-(
Jesse
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