Finding that removing the last nut, one closest to passenger compartment, that holds down pipe to manifold nearly impossible. Don't know how to get a wrench in there. Any experience with this?

-Mike

Shade tree mechanic who helps me on my 1990 745T has heated rusty exhaust nuts and bolts with a torch. Always works for him on my car. It's not propane, though, it is the kind with two rental bottles standing up in a wheeled stand. Wears goggles. The nuts come right off after that.

Yeah.... sounds like an oxygen-acetylene set-up. Burns crazy hot, and is probably the ultimate man tool. :-)

They're just expensive to keep and run. You can get an Oxy-MAPP set-up from Lowe's for not too much ($60ish), but the word is they eat the cylinders pretty quick.... though I've had a MAPP-only torch (slightly better than propane) for a couple years, and have gotten a *lot* of use out of a single cylinder.

-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

Need to get one of those. Although, not being an expert, I am a little nervous about the idea of using a torch under the car for fear of explosion. Just like learning to weld and getting a welder, becoming proficient with a torch would probably be a huge asset.

-Mike

If you're not in a big rush. Pblaster works great to soak rust etc. Wallyworld carries it. Sometimes trying to tighten a little can help break the rust hold free.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

Used the Pbblaster. That plus a wobbler with the socket and air gun did the trick. Now just waiting for new parts to arrive.

Thanks-
Mike

Glad you got it. Last time I planned on exhaust manifold gasket. I sprayed the nuts down cold. Drove to work. Sprayed while hot. Got off work, sprayed cold again. Got home, sprayed hot. Did this for about 3 days. Everything came off like butter.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

Plain ol' MAPP is real handy and is pretty safe, especially with the "trigger" start thingy. It'll heat a lot of stuff up enough to loosen it.

-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-mobile, E-codes
1990 245 DL 137k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Dracos
1991 745 GL 304k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club

I think you get all the exhaust manifild bolts to exhaust pipe flange from the bottom with orinary extensions and maybe a wobbler extension, I forget exactly.
But I do remember that before you try to apply "The Murphy" that you should heat the studs with a torch so they can be convinced to unbolt instead of snapping off. MAPP gas is better an ordinary propane.

Bill

Wobbler. Thats what I need. Regular straight extensions are not letting me make the angle. Other 2 came off eaisly.

Thanks-
Mike

Hi Mike,

I'm pretty sure 700 is like my 240 experience. The nuts I find fit a 15mm socket. Sometimes I hear from others they fit a 17. I have a foot and a half of 3/8" drive extension and a 1/2" drive ratchet with adapter to 3/8 at the end.

Before doing, I soak them down, because I don't want to have to replace the studs in the manifold. I understand conditions vary widely with geography, salt use, and age of the car.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular?

Art-
Other 2 came off no problem. Going to soak the 3rd well tonight. Also going to get an articulating (wobbler) extension for driver.

Thanks
Mike

Mike,

Again, with 240s, I used straight extensions, and once past the bottom of the pipe, it was a straight shot for all 3. But I did buy some 1/2" wobble bars to help me with the bellhousing bolts up at the top. Did the trick there.

Also, I agree, if you have a propane torch, get a cylinder of Mapp gas (yellow) if you don't already know its flame. It is noticeably better.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

When someone asks you, "A penny for your thoughts", and you put your two cents in, what happens to the other penny?