I've been doing some work and finally found my cable to connect camera to the puter.
I just refurbished and reinstalled my mahogony rear speaker deck
[IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc72/glass004/CIMG2132.jpg[/IMG]

Also a pic showing my B20E with new MSII equipment. I had just used ether to check ignition.
[IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc72/glass004/CIMG2129.jpg[/IMG]

And finally a pic of my car in its normal position (on a jack stand) Notice I'm keeping the Kudzu off of it.
[IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc72/glass004/Summer2009119.jpg[/IMG]

Joel
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

Joel
Nice 142. I was wondering where you got the headlight protectors. I suspect the answer is (vintage) IPD,but I'd be curious to know.
Thanks,Bub

The headlight protectors are vintage IPD from the late 70's

Joel
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

I looked through your album, that's a great looking car! Tell us more about it please. Your MS install, how did that go? One thing I'd change would be the fuel rail. After the first year, Volvo changed the fuel rail to a double ended style & I figure there must have been a reason for it.

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Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.

About the fuel rail, it is the 71 style, they changed in 72. The old application provides better fuel pressue management. Per 1800philes.com "On the later fuel rail design where the FPR is installed across a gap in the rail it may not be as ideal. The early design where th FPR is bolted to the heater housing at the end of the high pressure circuit of the fuel plumbing is perfect"

I have owned the car since 76. Origionaly sold for $4200, I have origional window sticker. The car autocrossed from 77 until 84. Kicked Mazda Rx7's ass.
Family duty called and a dormancy overtook my car for 10 years in my basement.
The engine was built in 1979. Isky street cam (IPD),double valve springs,fully balanced,lightened flywheel, oil trap in oilpan, remote oil filter,origional 10.5 CR with 030 overbore on Mahle pistons,and an IPD header (I know I should put the origional exhaust header back on) I have an IPD header stablizer on the bell housing, and an engine stablizer bar on the engine. There is a pertonix electronic ignition in a NOS distributer from Sweden. I have an Innovate LC-1 WBS I just put in a new starter motor.

I have a Detroit Truelock LS, 4.10 rear end, and M41.
The car is on new IPD lowered springs and bilstiens. I have front and rear swaybars. All bushings underneath are brand new and poly. I run 69 lower A-frames and cuz equipment is a lot stronger than 70-73. I had my front swaybar attachment points reinforced with welding and backup plates on the rear swaybars. I am running new stock brakes with ceramic front and green rear pads.

The megasquirt took 1 1/2 years to put in. I am not a mechanic, although I am the only one around that wants to work on a 140. The hardware was relatively easy with much of my starting info coming from 1800phile.com. Steve had planted the MS seed in my head in 2007.
There is plenty of MS help online, but if you do not know basic automechanic concepts, you make misassumptions and mistakes. It took me a while to sort out the - 16 degree effect my pertonix had on the ignition, kinda hard to start it that way. I hooked up the 12V MS fuel pump wire to the fuel pump rather than through a relay. etc.etc. etc. Learned a hell of a lot.
I hooked up as much of my motor to the MS computer to monitor sensor issues before I made the switch over to MS. Now the car has all its origional power plus more I hope. Will do a dyno soon I hope.

I just recently replaced the dash with on uncracked unit and switched out the heater motor and did all the wiring work for the WBS and MS. The bumpers are newly chromed and I have 100% NOS parking and turn signal lenses on the car.
The front grill is NOS. New leather on seats,and side door and interior panels. The rear speaker deck is custom mahagony work by me. The dash has a mahogony veneer on the origional metal panel with polyU coating. The car just got out of the beauty shop for a new coat with a minor repair on some body seam rust that was starting (as well as a tag from a ditch on the left rear quarter when I lost my rear end one day on a corner). Too much new power. The wheels are 6 by 15 Minilites from IPD.
Made the shifter knob in 1976, the first mod to the car.

A long winded effort Paul, but it there was over 30 years of work to summerize.
Joel

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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

Per 1800philes.com "On the later fuel rail design where the FPR is installed across a gap in the rail it may not be as ideal. The early design where th FPR is bolted to the heater housing at the end of the high pressure circuit of the fuel plumbing is perfect"

Why would Volvo change from optimal to less than optimal? I think the 2nd version of the pipework would be more expensive too.

I know very little about EFI, however, I *think* the reasoning behind Volvo's change in pipework was to provide each injector with exactly the same amount of fuel. With D-Jet, you have two cylinders firing at the same time, with the old style pipework, the second injector in a row *might* recieve less fuel. With the 2nd type fuel rail, the fuel can travel around the opposite direction through the FPR to the 2nd injector to fire in the pair so that it gets the same amount of fuel. Does that make any sense?

The wheels are 6 by 15 Minilites from IPD.

What offset are they? Can you do me a favour and measure the track across the rear end with a tape from centre to centre? I'm a huge fan of Minilite style rims, they look great on just about anything 35+ years old.

The megasquirt took 1 1/2 years to put in.

The soldering part would be the hardest part for me. Right now I am very happy with K-Jet, but when one of the main components dies, I'll try MegaSquirt out for myself.
I run 69 lower A-frames and cuz equipment is a lot stronger than 70-73.

I've always favoured the later A-arms because I feel the extra rubber in the bushes gives better braking, but, my local autocross track is dirt. On bitumen, stiffer bushes with stickier rubber & stiffer springs would be the way to go.

The rear speaker deck is custom mahagony work by me. The dash has a mahogony veneer on the origional metal panel with polyU coating.

Great work! The whole car is awesome!



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Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.

Paul
I measured the "Superlite" mag rear back wheels, center of tire to center of tire and found a distance of 54 and 5/8", 60 inches rim to rim. Does that mean I have a 5/8" offset on the wheels?

Joel
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

I can attest to the fact that Joel's car is every bit as nice in the metal as it is in the photos. -- Dave

Nice car. Are you the one that polished that intake?

BTW - don't forget to plug in the cold start valve. (You might not need the starting fluid.)

I got a spare intake manifold because the throttle return spring had deformed the throttle spindle casing on the origional. My throttle would not close properly affecting easy idle setting.
The new spare I polished up with sandpaper, dremmel tool and finally steel wool. I would say over 40 hours of hand work. The problem is my air bypass channels on the polished manifold were fouled up.and I had to plug them up to get complete manifold vacumn seal. I had to do a lot of grinding on the polished manifold to fit with the headers (3 hours with fitting).

Joel
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

I don't think you need the cold start injector with MegaSquirt, but it wouldn't hurt to hook it up.

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Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.

Yeah, the cold start injector is an artifact. With MSII there is no problem getting enough fuel programmed for cold starts......if you can fiqure out how to do it.
Actually I am trying to come up with a good and cosmetic way to seal up the fuel rail nozzle for the cold start valve. Please, any suggestions?
Thanks
Joel
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

the cold start injector is an artifact.....I am trying to come up with a good and cosmetic way to seal up the fuel rail nozzle for the cold start valve.

I'd leave it there & wire it up to a push button for use on extra cold days & it would make a useful diagnostic tool.
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Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.

Although I have not got all my cold start adjustments down, Megasquirt will be able to adjust fuel in proper quantities for very cold (-40 f).

As far as the relation with the FPR and fuel rail, (let's see if I get this right) the advantage to having the FPR at the end of the fuel circuit is that fuel pressure is more constant for all injectors if the FPR is at the end of the circuit rather than the middle.

I think all that Volvo was thinking was to they wanted to remove the FPR hardware from the firewall to the fuel rail. Maybe an easier or more efficient manufacturing process had some infuence on the decision.

As far as the rim to rim measurements, I presume that does not include the tire? I'll give a look see in a minute.

Thanks, I am complimented by your interest.
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

I like the fuel rail setup. What brand/model of fuel pressure regulator is that?

I purchased it on e bay. It was an aftermarket for a G35. It was nice becuz it is vacumn sensitive, and rubber hoses could be clamped up. The gauge is really a nice feature. I hope it lasts.

The fuel rail is from a 71 1800E given to me by a friend with a 72 1800E. He did not want it and gave it to me in payment for work done. I like a lot the fact it is brass and cleans up as a nice contrast to the chrome FI holders and valve cover.

Thanks
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

Wow! Really pretty. Thanks for sharing....

Harry

Just gorgeous! Wow.

I love your 142! Great Colour!
Mines a 240, and it's natural pose is also on stands

Having grown up in Ontario, I got to say you have a beautiful 240. Hard to find out there sometimes, so many just rot away.

Yes Brother, but at least we have a solid pad to jack it up on. Not such a bad looking brick you have there.
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

That rear shelf gives me an idea...

Very nice.