Yep, basics on points/coils ignitions:

1) One low tension terminal on the coil should have 12V+ when the key is on, this is the wire that goes to the ignition switch, not to the distributor. So test that with a multimeter between it and a ground somewhere, either the chassis or the - battery terminal. 12V+ - that's good, move on. No 12V+, that's a problem, trace the wire back, see where the 12V+ stops.

2) The *other* terminal on the coil needs to be grounded through the points in the distributor. So without getting into the distributor yet, switch the multimter over to continuity testing, or ohm reading, and check for that wire to ground and un-ground as the motor turns and the points open and close. FYI: The coil is supposed to make a spark when the ground is broken. You might want to disconnect the wire from the coil to make this a little clearer. If it is making a connection to ground and then breaking it, then the distributor is (at least in very gross terms) working as it should. If it isn't, then somethings wrong in the distributor. If it is, start suspecting the coil, all it really needs to work is current flow that gets broken.

2a) A fun factoid aabout coils is that they will burn up and stop working if continuously run through them. This can happen if you set the points up wrong and grounded that side, and left the key on for a while trying to figure it out. It can also happen if the motor happens to turn off with the points closed and you then switch the key on and leave it there for a while. Most coils can only handle the heat created by current going through them part of the time, as happens when running.

3) If something is wrong in the distributor, then you need to look at how the points are installed, and how the wire to them is installed. the wire that leads to the coil passes through the side of the distributor body - it has to be insulated there because if it isn't, it will be permanently grounded and the coil won't ever make a spark. From there it runs to the moving arm of the points, and that arm needs to be insulated from the rest of the points (including the little post it pivots on). And last but not least, the points need to close and open as the little cam pushes them. Sometimes they get a little film on them that stops them from passing current when closed. Sometimes they don't close all the way. Sometimes they don't open. Adjust as needed, they are supposed to have some particular gap when sitting on the very tip of one of the cam lobes.

4) If the coil is getting 12V+ on one terminal, and alternating ground/open on the other, it should be making sparks. Take the dist end of the coil wire and set it 1/16th of an inch (or so) away from some nice grounded piece of metal, and crank the motor around. if the low voltage (12V) side is working, but you aren't getting sparks, the coil is bad. If it is, then you need to see if the sparks are getting tot he right cylinder at the right time.
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)

I'm not sure what your level of expertise is, so if some of this sounds pretty basic, please bear with me.

I'm not sure what you meant by "no spark at the points", but here are a few basic tests you can perform using a DVM or a test light. The DVM readings should be either zero or 12+/- volts.

First check the integrity of the ground wire running from the points to the coil. Look for worn/frayed/chafed wiring that may be grounding out.

If the wire checks out, then check for ground on/ground off operation. Pull the ground wire from the coil and test the battery side of the coil - should be 12 volts/light on. If not, check the wire that provides voltage to the coil. Should also give 12V/light on on the ground side.

Then hook up the ground connection on your meter/light to the end of the disconnected coil ground wire, supply 12 volts to the positive side of the testing device - battery positive side will work. Slowly rotate the engine and watch the points. When they close, you should get 12 volts/light on. When they open, you should get zero volts/light off. If you're getting 12 volts all of the time, either your points are not opening properly - make sure that they are opening when the interrupter block on the points is on a high side of the rotor shaft - or the ground wire is finding a ground inside the distributor. Pay close attention to the opening in the distributor body where the ground wire enters - not unusual for the wire to chafe there, and ground to the housing.

I'm not sure if this applies to your ignition system, but on older Fords, I used to be able to do these tests by moving the rotor shaft to the high side, then moving the vacuum advance plate back and forth to simulate the turning of the rotor shaft.

You may have installed the points incorrectly, where the small screw goes throught the dist body it may be grounded be sure the washers are in the right order so the screw isn't ground. Dick