ok so i have an 1989 volvo 740 gle 16 valve yet now that ive actually noticed that i was lacking in the power area i see that the 16 valve was swapped for an 8 valve with as my friends say"no balls" please volvo world show me the light what can i do to get this brick flying? im sick of getting whomped by minivans :(

I put a turbo on a n/a motor over 40k miles ago. No issues. But I got lucky finding all the parts. Manifold, downpipe, injectors, intake etc. etc..look at turbobricks.com
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I have always wondered about the details in doing that- NA engine and bolting on the turbo and associated plumbing. I find it interesting that the guys over at turbobricks have been modifying the blocks to accept squirters.

How much boost are you running?

How much modification on the electrical side was necessary?

Running premium I presume?

Just a matter of drilling the block to accept the oil return line?

Randy

7psi
turbo computer.
Nope. 87 octane
Drilled into the pan..


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I am very interested in this, especially since I read stealth-sti's pages. What are you getting for mileage? and, I take it you have the original lockup torque converter, can you confirm? Did you add the sensor in the intake near the airbox? I'm not sure all have that.

This is where I went for all my info. Do a good search, you'll find a ton of info. Not sure what sensor you are referring to. Mileage, probably 23-25. Manual with OD.

http://www.turbobricks.com/
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Thanks, I've been there but not much; I did not know anyone else who had done this on here.

You can find a good turbo at a junkyard and bolt it on. You may end up blowing your headgasket from the new pressures. Just saying.
8-valves are more modifiable than 16-valves, and are not interference engines - e.g. your timing belt breaks on a 16-valve, new engine. It breaks on an 8-valve, get a spare out of the trunk and keep going after you guess the timing.

-Will
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

You can also try www.turbobricks.com for information on making your engine more powerful. Some of the guys there, and the radical Volvo fanatics in Sweden, can get mind-boggling horsepower (gas-tank-draining, too) from the B230 engines.

I second the opinion that you have a better engine than the 16-valve one.

An axiom about making cars go faster, in the form of a question: Speed costs. How fast do you want to go?
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Scott Cook - 1991 745T, 1986 Toyota Tercel (Don't laugh, it is reliable, faithful AND gets 41 mpg!)

I would not a 16-valve myself because I don't like interference engines with rubber timing belts, but here is a note I posted on Oct 30:

I know nothing about this. I just found it while looking for a B230. The price looked good at $200, and it said it was running so I guess it hasn't thrown the timing belt yet.

Charley

http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/pts/1436064573.html

I am sorry that you were mislead regarding engine type, but the 8 valve is much more reliable than the 16 valve. There is not much you can do on the "cheap" to make your engine produce more BHP.

Keep on the lookout for a turbo engine in the local pick&pulls, you might find a bargain.

Klaus
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.