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Need tips or tricks for glove box 200

posted by  Nel621 on  Sun Nov 29 13:07 CST 2009
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last visit: Thu Oct 23 12:48 CST 2014
[RELATED]

My friends' 240 has a glove box that opens when going over the bumps.Looks like something is worn on the box near the lock/latch. The lock is fine,turns,opens ok. But something is worn, the hole? I know this is a known problem with these cars.Any tips or tricks you have tried that helped would be appreciated.Note not looking to strap it down with duct tape or screw a padlock on the outside of the box.Want the car to look original,not mickey moused! Thanks.
Nelson








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    posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

    I've got the solution for you - posted it a year ago + - glovebox door repair. Five years and counting, hasn't popped open.

    Good luck!
    Zach
    Anchorage, Alaska
    1988 244 & 1990 245



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      posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

      Zach ,I looked at post and pic.Still not sure how that setup works.What are you accomplishing with the bracket?



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        posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

        It provides a new strong place for the latch to grab onto.
        At least I think that's what Zach has in mind.

        Here's a pic of the reinforcement I did for a glove box.
        I used Dremel with cutoff wheel to cut the opening in the metal strip (mine was aluminum not steel). I also gooped it up with epoxy.
        --
        Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, airbox heater upgraded, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, aero front face, quad horns, tach, small clock.




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          posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

          Sorry - yes, the lack of a good point for the bracket to hold onto is what is causing the glovebox to become a pain in the rear. With a bracket like what I showed above or what Sven's posted, you'll be good to go. In my case, no goop has been necessary.

          Zach


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    posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

    What happens frequently (at least on the 240's) is that the mounting holes become wallowed out and brittle over time and sometimes crack out. Especially if the glovebox has been removed and replaced alot. As a result when the glovebox is reinstalled and if the top edge is pushed up and the bottom edge is pushed down when the screws are tightened you can essentially "stretch" or make the opening slightly larger sometimes causing the latch to ride closer to the edge of the pawl. What I've had some luck doing is to loosen all of the mounting screws and then while pushing up on the lower edge tighten the lower mount screws. Then push down on the top edge and then tighten the upper mounting screws. Essentially what you're doing is squeezing the box opening area and making a bit smaller. If after you do this the door doesn't want to close then you adjusted it too far. Play with it and you should seee what I mean. Good Luck!



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      posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

      Glove box mount holes deteriorated.

      When glove box is out of the car, use some 5-minute epoxy.
      Mix it up and put around the outside of the mount holes, on the back side of the glove box. Let it harden fully before putting the glove box back in car.

      It's worthwhile to beef up the ones that haven't cracked yet - that might prevent them from cracking.
      --
      Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, airbox heater upgraded, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, aero front face, quad horns, tach, small clock.



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